Fixing Skirting board

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by egon, Dec 20, 2003.

  1. egon

    egon New Member

    Hi all, I`m actually a welder not a Chippy so forgive any `pathetic` questions such as `what is the best way to fix 150mm deep skirting to the wall?`, should I use nails or one of those "no nails" type stuff or a mix of both?. I do have a load of other questions you could help me with but I`ll wait and see what the response to this one is like first. Thanks
     
  2. Charlie Far!ey

    Charlie Far!ey New Member

    While you have to Fix it you may need to remove it too. I use silicone and just squiggle it but 25mm from the bottom and brad it to the wall. It will hold fine. When you do the corners (Internal) cut one of 'em square and butt it up to the wall the other cut it at 45 degrees and cut it square upto the fancy profie at he top then with a coping saw follow the exposed area around the profile and this wil fit exactly into the piece that you have fitted flush. Use a dob of filler to fill any gaps and its job done - A monkey can do it!

    :)
     
  3. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    Hi Egon,

    I thought I would give you these amateur pointers from my experience but I am sure that the real trade members will give you the griff in due course.

    I found that when I put up some six inch skirting that you have to allow for any out of true wall bulges and also warps in the skirting if you are using pine/spruce. You might miss this using a tape meaure and cut short. I cut to size and then decided if there was any spring on each run. I used No More Nails, which should be named it goes everywhere, and backed up as required by masonry nails.

    After cutting to size and profiling the inside 90 degree mitres I did all the preparation and only put the top coat of paint on when it was fitted. Don't try to cut the inside mitres as they never mate up. Cut at 45 degrees and then use a coping saw to cut the line formed by the mitre to the face surface. It takes time but it works a treat.

    I really do not think that No More Nails is that good as it seems to take quite a while to go off so make sure that you can form some wedges to hold it in place if you are not going to tack as well.

    I wonder if you shoud have added chips to your name tag? HA HA

    Good luck

    DWD

    Hope this helps.
     
  4. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    Oh no Charlie got in first
     
  5. bodget&scarpers

    bodget&scarpers New Member

    as charles has said, 4 internal mitres cut 45, thjen follow the shadow, but then u may have 2 counterscribe the bottom bit as walls r never plumb! years ago we allways used cut nails on s/w and always screwed and pelleted on h/w. but now arcitects insist on no visable fixings so now gripfill. and does seem 2 work o:k.
     
  6. supersparky

    supersparky New Member

    when you said charles i started thinkin of...'bum boy' and so re read your post like it has a double meaning...i can tell you im very worrid!!!
    even more so when i read "4 internal mitres cut 45, thjen follow the shadow, but then u may have 2 counterscribe the bottom bit "
    "and always screwed and pelleted"
    "no visable fixings so now gripfill".....lmao! thats a gudden!!..if that was your intention

    BR
     
  7. kesh

    kesh New Member

    Just a couple of points about gripfill/no nails-

    Make sure that both surfaces are dust free & sound as It can adversely affect adhesion.

    Remember that these won't pull the skirting to the wall like screws & cut nails do, so if your walls are very un-even there will be big gaps to fill at the top.
     
  8. bilco

    bilco New Member

    Hi Egon
    A time saving trick on your internal mitres...on a piece of skirting about 6" long scribe both ends as internal corners...that they fit nicely onto the skirting at right angles...now without having to cut a mitre each time you can cut your scribed ends by using this template by marking with a pencil when the template is held against a square and perpendicular on the skirting...I sometimes use decorators filler to aid adhesion against the wall...that if any comes out at the top it doesn't affect decorating
     
  9. Pugley

    Pugley Member

    You must have all looked at the cheap compressor and nail gun advertised on the Screwfix Home page as you log on and thought "now what can I use that for and how can I justify buying one".

    Well, 50mm 18ga T nails are just the ticket to hold skirting in exactly the right place whilst the gripfix sets. If the thin nails are fired in at a slight angle at about 100psi they will grip most substrates except concrete and the heads will be about 2mm below the surface.

    Although not recommended for the best hardwoods they are ideal for pine/spruce as a simple wash over with water causes the small entry holes to close up. Also very good for pinning the mitres on external corners.

    Excellent time saving device but watch out below sockets!
     
    ackoandpeas likes this.
  10. princeofwales

    princeofwales New Member

    charlie farley seems to think skirting board should be fixed with silicon

    silicon will not stick fast to porous material if you have plastic skirting it would work.

    most new build carpenters would use paslode nails 63mm and a few dabs of gripfil ie every 400 mm

    mitre bond or white glue on the joints.
     
  11. SW

    SW New Member

    I'm not in the trade, but i agree with charley farley - i use silicon to fix the skirting to the walls in a swirling pattern and where the walls are really out force it to the wall using masonry nails and remove them when dry. I haven't had any problems with the skirting coming away from the walls (4 years and 2 houses worth) infact i put a bit of skirting up one day and the missus then decided she didn't like it the next day. By the time I had prised it off the wall i was looking for my easifill bag to replace the plaster that had come with it.
    The best stuff to use is the translucent silicon (no colour) it sticks to anything (like s* on a shiny shovel) anything with a bit of colour doesn't seem to have quite the same strength - but it will still work.
    If you have large gaps against the walls - use filler to fill the worst of the gap - and when it is dry, caulk along the entire skirting prior to painting - using the filler will stop the caulking shrinking into the gap. Works a treat - i wouldn't do it any other way.
     
  12. SW

    SW New Member

    ps

    I've used gripfil to fix skirting (it sucks) it stays wet too long. Try prising the skirting of the wall before it dries - the silicon practically sticks straight away. I've stuck window sills to brick and concrete, wood to tiles. And i've even fixed the water leak on the wife's washing m/c, the seal had disintegrated along with the bearing - i put an old bearing in to get it going but didn't have a seal, so i just filled the void with silicon and let it dry. I thought it would only last a few days - it lasted a further 9 months - value for money or what !!!!!.
     
  13. dunc

    dunc New Member

    Commercial sites are now fixing square edge mdf skirting to plasterboard walls with Gripfill and Paslode guns. Quick and cheap.

    For timber skirting in traditional settings you can still choose between oval nails, lost head nails or panel pins.
    With traditional fixes, providing you still leave some of the nail out, you can recover from a mistake. When everything is right, whack home the nails.

    I use a pry bar when doing renovating and second fixes. It helps to remove skirting, architrave, pull nails and you can stand on it to lift a door. They cost about £10.
     
  14. The Dormouse

    The Dormouse New Member

    As Kesh says, glues don't force the boards against the walls like screws. My brick walls include bits of flint that bend masonry pins & blunt drills. If I miss these I usually hit a patch of loose mortar that won't hold any fixing, so I used No Nails & braced the boards across to the opposite wall with lengths of wood until the glue had set.
     
  15. Shellie

    Shellie New Member

    No more nails does the trick- I have done it and I am a girlie!!
     
  16. not_a_clue

    not_a_clue New Member

    Hi all

    I've just found this site and not a moment too soon (having just ripped my first piece of skirting off the wall in order to fit laminate flooring!).

    I would have used a biscuit jointer (as suggested in another post) but I'm here now so I need to clarify what I need to fit my new skirting.

    First off, I'm not an experienced DIYer so please bare with me.

    I'm planning on fitting the cheap skirting from homebase and after reading the above threads, will probably use gripfill and some masonary nails (old house with very wonky walls).

    Would I be best to get a nail-gun and if so, can someone recommend one from the screwfix site that would be up for the job?

    Cheers


    Wayne
     
  17. coggy

    coggy New Member

  18. Dewy

    Dewy New Member

    Or here http://n-s.no-ip.com/ ;)

    It's a pity you ripped the skirting out.
    You could have layed the laminate to the skirting then covered the edges with quadrant pinned to the skirting so the expansion and contraction occurs under the quadrant.
     
  19. taffy

    taffy New Member

    god i must be old still using screws and rawll plugs
     
  20. woodsmith

    woodsmith New Member

    Hi, not a clue, Gripfil is good, masonry nails can be a problem with wonky walls because, as you drive one in the previous one is loosened. If you are going to paint the skirting then I would plug and screw and just fill over the tops of the screws.

    A nail gun to do this job would be a very costly option.

    Keith
     

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