Fixing Thin Worktops together

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Stevie dee, Apr 16, 2018.

  1. Stevie dee

    Stevie dee New Member

    So a recommendation to us for a kitchen fitter backfired on us and we're left sorting out various bits and pieces.
    We have an L shaped design, sink worktop is down and fixed (would be an absolute pain to remove) other length is cut, hob in etc. Just need to secure both pieces.

    Its 28mm thick, oak i believe. We were going to use external connecting bolts but on the underside of the "fixed" edge there is only about 20mm to work with before we hit the top support of the base corner unit below. (The corner unit is standard no solid top, just 45mm piece across the front) Hope this makes sense??

    Any advice ideas would be greatly appreciated

    Attached Files:

  2. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    You really need to use "dog bolts" routed in to connect the two worktops.

    If the rail on the unit is in the way you just holesaw access through allow tightening.
  3. Stevie dee

    Stevie dee New Member

    The one worktop is already in place. No way that is coming out. How could you make the recess in this case?
  4. spen123

    spen123 Active Member

    Use a forstner bit and sharp chisel
  5. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    Unless I'm missing something glaringly obvious, use a biscuit jointer and no 20 biscuits to join the tops, with waterproof PVA glue.
  6. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    Why wearn't the bolt recesses routed out before that length of worktop was fitted ?
    Jimmycloutnail likes this.
  7. ginger tuffs

    ginger tuffs Active Member

    could you use threaded wood to metal inserts to join the worktop together
  8. Stevie dee

    Stevie dee New Member

    Because the person who fitted it didn't have a clue what he was doing and has left us in a mess
  9. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    Sorry to hear that, far too many peeps in this business that don't know what there doing unfortunately. Why would it be "an absolute pain to remove" ? Taking the sink out should be easy. Once out it's only a case unscrewing the worktop screws and taking it out, the rest is plain sailing from that point.
  10. Stevie dee

    Stevie dee New Member

    All the waste is plumbed in, after he managed to drill through the water main. No water for a day. Other half has already tiled..oh and the sink is just sitting on the clips after he messed up the cut for the sink... happy days
  11. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    rather than use proper worktop bolts that need routing out, use a length of stud bar and a cross dowel. You only need to drill holes in the edge and in from underneath. Watch that depth - don't go right through :eek::eek: You can still router out for the end fitting from a worktop bolt on the non-fixed piece. Drill the stud hole slightly oversize and use biscuits to align the surface.
  12. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    Mmmmmm, this is going from bad to worse. Why was the sink run tiled before all the worktop was fitted ? Is the sink stainless steel or a composite sink ? The waste trap can just be taken off of the sink waste and the tap disconnected, getting the sink out is easy.
  13. Jimmycloutnail

    Jimmycloutnail Active Member

    Sounds pretty horrendous, hope you haven’t paid him!! why would he tile before worktops were fitted?,

    The best solution is dog bolts but go to Howdens or magnet and get the zip bolt type that can be done up with a hex key will make it easier, Spen has posted above use a Forster bit to drill a hole for the bolt head and a series of 10mm holes to a depth of 15-20mm depending how brave your feeling and use a chisel to remove the rest of the waste the other piece with th hob can be router as usual
  14. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    Whereabouts in the country are you Stevie?

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