Flat Roof Soil Stack

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Clinchy, Feb 20, 2018.

  1. Clinchy

    Clinchy Member

    Hey guys,

    I want to swap out my soil stack when I redo the bathroom in a couple of weeks as its cast and leaking in the extension.

    It runs tight up in the buttress at the rear of the house through the flat roof.

    I'm pretty sure once I've disturbed it I'm going to have issues trying to reseal it, so I'm just after options and opinions. My current plan is to remove the current flashing, replace the stack and then use a rubber stack flash and refit the flashing back over and gum in a load of rubber sealant until I figure out what to do with the roof as a whole.

    Luke.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

  3. You could get a roofing leadworker to make a lead collar for that.
    It would be tucked under the existing lead flashing on the walls,no need then to try and bodge with a repair sealant.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Agree, I've made lead collars to fit over a plastic collar, purely for appearance & sealed with Lead Mate sealant.
     
  5. Clinchy

    Clinchy Member

    It's only a temporary fix, I'm hoping to put a pitched roof on it over summer as soon as I get time a dry week.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Just use a weathering collar & Evercyrl to weatherproof everything until summer.:)
     
  7. Clinchy

    Clinchy Member

    On another with regards to the soil stack. I currently have a clay pipe through the wall into the bathroom and the outside part now sits in the roof of the extension so I was thinking about hacking the clay pipe out and replacing with PVC? I don't think I can trust any kind of adaptor not to leak over time and don't want to rip the ceiling down in the future.
     
  8. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Going to replace a stack, then do the job properly,replace clay through wall, might come back to bite you at a later date.:)
    Also been caught a few times using a plastic to clay adaptor (Mcalpine DC1) only for the clay rest bend to crack when fitting adaptor, or have a leak & find a crack later.:mad:
     
  9. Clinchy

    Clinchy Member

    That's what I was thinking. I'm going to try drilling around it and hopefully it will just fall out :p
     
  10. Clinchy

    Clinchy Member

    And another thought. As its in the ceiling and the angle out of the wall to the stack isn't that great should I use solvent weld fittings?
     
  11. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Sometimes I find it's easier to brick up the old hole through wall & core drill a new one,as sometime old toilets outlet pipes can be slightly higher to their modern cousins & you encounter problems with pipe alignment,as to fittings, push fit should be perfectly ok.

    Photo's would make things clearer with regards to ceiling and the angle out of the wall to the stack.:)
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2018
  12. Clinchy

    Clinchy Member

    Sorry for the slow reply. I had a look at my neighbours the other day and the angle is pretty good. It's hard see mine with it being boxed in roof.
     
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    A GRP roofing would be a lot easier to work with than the felt.
     
  14. rogerk101

    rogerk101 Screwfix Select

    I take great joy every time I eliminate a soil stack that passes through a roof, and replace it with an indoor air admittance valve, which I tuck away under the bath, in a cupboard, or somewhere discreet.
    You can get them for anything from 10 to 30 pounds, and I've never had the slightest whiff of bad air from any I've ever fitted, whatever price I've paid for them.
    You do away with all the expensive and time-consuming flashing and/or sealing problems.
    Another advantage is that you can often eliminate a boxed in bog pipe running all the way up the corner of a room, which leaves you with more space, cleaner lines, easier plastering or tiling.
    Air admittance valves for me every time.
     
    KIAB likes this.

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