gable ends

Build 2 more frames in the same way ,leave a hole in 1 big enough for the door opening,you can cut the bottom plate out after you have fixed the frame if you need to.I can only guess you are having a double pitched roof.Lay one of the frames on a flat peice of ground ,mark the centre of the top plate lay a piece of timber on this centre mark .Move the timber up or down (but use the centre mark as a fixed point) until you get a pitch you are happy with .The centre line will now give you a plumb cut,use a sliding bevel,put the bevel on the timber and adjust it until it is pararrel to the top plate,this will give you youre seat cut ,The seat cut will start where the top of the timber intersects the outside of the frame
You can now use this timber as a pattern .

 

Ha ha sucssess at last ,me writing "how to do things" on these forums normally confuses everyone and complicates OP questions

 

Ha ha sucssess at last ,me writing "how to do things"
on these forums normally confuses everyone and
complicates OP questions



Ha. I think the OP is humouring you S2.

Confused the hell outa me!!!!!!


Mr. HandyAndy - really

 

Ha ha sucssess at last ,me writing "how to do
things"
on these forums normally confuses everyone and
complicates OP questions



Ha. I think the OP is humouring you S2.

Confused the hell outa me!!!!!!

Well,it would not take a lot to confuse you would it.
When are you next on builders from hell

 

Won't the guy need a large 'square' or a second reference point, to go straight up to the apex point of his gable ?

One mark in the middle of to top plate ain't no good.

Are you not allowing anything for a fascia to fix to ?

Are struts necessary between rafters and top plate ?

How will intermediate rafters be prevented from spreading the walls of the shed ?

How will they all be connected end to end at the ridge ?

Mr. HandyAndy - really

 

This where you lack of knowledge of carpentry lets you down yet again.
The man is building a shed/workshop .

The pitch of the roof is NOT critical ,so therefore the only fixed point is the centre point.
He only asked about the gable ends
I think the OP has got enough sense to make the gable end up as a frame.
A shed/workshop does not need intermediate rafters as the roof can be made as 2 seperate panels
the connects come in the form of any of the following,nails, screws and bolts.
As you very likely live in a shed ,I suggest you open your eyes and look at it's construction and you might get the jist of what I am saying.

 

Yeah right.

The pitch of the roof may not be critical, but if he wants roof areas to be the same each side, then it IS critical to go up, vertical, perpendicular, level, straight, up from the one mark you made on the plate.

Any deviation left or right means there will be NO centre point(at least, not equally centred).

That's just one point.


Mr. HandyAndy - really

 

Oh dear Mr,HAR ,
I seem to remeber that you make a living out of the building industry how on earth do you sleep at night .
If you resd my orginal post I suggested that by using the centre of the frame as a fixed point and putting a timber from this point to whatever point you want at the side of the frame this wiil give you a plumb and seat cut,this timber can then be used as a pattern ,it is simple trigonometry.I suppose you will think I made that word up Mr Handy Andy but I didn't. REALLY.

 

you dont need a "large square" or any other such nonsence to set the ridge to the correct height.

You cut the rafters to the correct length and angle for the pitch and the ridge height sets itself completely automatically. and once you have two opposing rafters in place the ridge also centres itself.

 

mind you if you are framing a roof in MDF you might need a "large square"

 

I have just read one of my posts and stated that a shed does not need intermiate rafters ,but, because of the size of this workshop and the 12'might be the sides that are not the gable-end ,I think it would be prudentto make a truss out of timber and plywood gyssets/gangplates,
If the original poster is confused as HAR the vulture said ,he could also set out one half of the pitch on a piece of sheet material ,then at least if he is not to sure he has a constant reference point to check his work

 

Oh dear Mr,HAR ,
I seem to remeber that you make a
r that you make a living out of the building industry
how on earth do you sleep at night .
If you resd my orginal post I suggested that by
by using the centre of the frame as a fixed point and
putting a timber from this point to whatever point
you want at the side of the frame this wiil give you
a plumb and seat cut,this timber can then be used as
a pattern ,it is simple trigonometry.I suppose you
will think I made that word up Mr Handy Andy but I
didn't. REALLY.



That is not what you said. You said this:

"mark the centre of the top plate lay a piece of timber on this centre mark .Move the timber up or down (but use the centre mark as a fixed point) until you get a pitch you are happy with .The centre line will now give you a plumb cut"


And er, some major backtracking is now going on re intermediate rafters. See, I read the opening post the first time round. All of it, and made my comments about ALL of it. Not some half-hearted description of how to get angles.

What part of the calculation gives you the ridge angle ?

You need a perpendicular reference point AS WELL as your one mark on the top plate.

Mr HandyAndy - Really