Garage floor

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Hutton20, Apr 13, 2019.

  1. Hutton20

    Hutton20 New Member


    Looking for some advice with regards leveling a garage floor out.

    Initially was due to start last summer however delayed until this summer. We have however in the mean time found out we are due a child in July. This has brought the project forward.

    Originally was due to put a DPM,130mm TF70 then screed to bring it up to FFL.

    However due to drying time on the screed this isn’t going to work for us. The floor level goes from 155mm to 260mm across 4m.

    Was wondering if anyone had used the following method;

    DPM, tapered firrings set at 400mm centres with sharp sand in between, 130mm TF70 kingspan then 22mm weyrock.

    Not sure if this will suffice because of the timbers or the sharp sand?

    Any advice is appreciated. TIA.
    Hop81 likes this.
  2. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Is it integral and are you converting the garage then? What do you want the sand for?
  3. Hutton20

    Hutton20 New Member

    Yes, converting the garage into a nursery/play room. Intention was using the sand as additional support more then anything else, with the kingspan sitting on top of the firrings wasn’t sure if they would be rigid enough even spanning at only 400 centres.

  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Why not a floating floor?

    Firrings at 400mm centres,or timber wallplate & joist hangers off them, kingspan between & top off with 22mm flooring chipboard.
    Will need lay dpm,or could do as I do two coats of a liquid dpm should suffice.
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2019
  5. Hutton20

    Hutton20 New Member

    I can’t fit wall plate and joists in, step down from the house into the garage at present is only 155mm (this is the highest point of the existing garage slab) so it wouldn’t give me enough to get joists in whilst allowing enough airflow underneath.
  6. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    If rigidity is required fit a row of noggins in the centre. Other than a liquid screed which dries out quicker than a conventional screed (but is costly and top spec for your situation) you can do as you suggested but cut the insulation in between your tapered joists. Or, as KIAB suggested, a floating floor, but you'll need the sub-base level first in order to lay the insulation on top.
  7. Hutton20

    Hutton20 New Member

    It’s another option, how would you suggest levelling the subfloor prior to the insulation without the firrings?
    Again thinking of drying times etc
  8. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    2x2 framework screwed together as one, 400 centres, level it and pack it, 18mm ply on top leaves you 90mm ish left to get 3" of celotex and 18mm chipboard down on top.
  9. Hutton20

    Hutton20 New Member

    Thanks for the advice, just wondering would there be no need for ventilation?

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice