Garden gate and Fence

Replace fence for neighbors.

Close board low level fending, one post wooden post rotted and broke.


Using treated CLS timber (96x75mm). Bolted to wall using concrete fixing bolts, in past I have tried to use anchor bolts, but the stud would keep pulling out, as losing grip with perforations in brick.


Post notched out for gas pipe and cut treated with preservative.


Post removed showing rotting, this post was quite sturdy but would have lasted another few years.


Wall post removed showing woodworm attack.


Hole beginning to be dug out and found cast iron gas pipe!


Decided to use concrete godfather I had as couldn't dig too deep. Wooden post was secured using 3 coach bolts with washers.


Gas warning engraved label pinned to post to identify pipe for future. Feel bad about the pipe, but original one was same install. I placed a small layer of stone over and place edging on top before post went in to protect pipe.


Used 6" concrete gravel board with galvanized brackets. This will help longevity of panel and provide additional height.


Gate was most expensive part here. Fixed some treated CLS timber 96x38mm on top to provide extra support on latch side of post and to help keep it aligned.



Ordered a gatemate lock for the gate, it is the the handle option and has key on outside only, recommend this lock and seems a good buy.




Unfortunately no pictures on inside. as they locked it now. I used the old t hinges which were galvanized. The latch part of the lock was recessed in post with router to stop small play, but this could have been solved by moving door stops out. I originally set the stops so door finished flush with frame.

 

I put the uncut end down on the post.

I don't think it will come out now.

I used a close board 6x6ft fence panel to fit between the posts, this had to be adjusted in sized. Had a job getting this in as post on the outbuilding isng plumb, so had to plane the battens on side of panel to fit.

It should be a lot easier to replace the post in future with the concrete godfather in place.

 

Got in to take pictures.

This is the gatemate lock, this is the sliding bar variation. The bar is solid stainless steel, and screws are ss as well.



The latch part was recessed using router and chisel. There was small play with door beteen stops. The latch is wider so allows for door movement if door were to sag in later years. Set it higher to take this in account.


Galvanised hinges reused, stainless steel no10 screws used.


As an extra I fixed a cabin hook, this was galvanised steel as well. I just drilled into the mortar joint as it will hold the stay in place, and don't like to drill holes in bricks if it can be avoided. Gas pipe dosnt get hit when closing.


Cat is happy as I left a wider gap under the gate so they can get in.

 

Yeas I was thinking that.

when I took the measurement from the edge of pipe from brick for the notch.

Found the brickwork was bowing in more, hence why it is a bit bigger, would have been hard to get a accurate scribe with the pipe there.

In all honesty pipe really shouldn't' be there, but that's the council install. The run for the cooker could easily have been routed from inside the kitchen. As chance with it getting knocked.

 

Yea can't complain I have only charged £125 labour for this job. I don't tend to d jobs for other people as will end up making no money.

This included collecting gate, fence panel and all the materials etc, rid of old materials etc.

Plus in this price I fixed on 2 more cabin hooks for the summer shed about 10 minutes work.

 

Feels well built.. and the are happy with the locking action.

I will be putting a new lock on my outbuilding too, so think I will be buying one for myself. They also do euro cylinder variations, more expensive. But handy if you want to have house keys keyed alike so matching cylinder.

 

The cheeky thing was the 'neighbour' wanted may to pay half, when it was his fence , its clearly their garden and has nothing to do with me side. Their place is council owned so I said get council into do it as needed replacing, but he wanted a higher fence for better privacy/security. If the council did it it would have been a like for like basis. Neighbors eh?

So I have handed the invoice and hope I get money as over half of job was on materials.

 

I set the post back as the gate was hitting the down pipe. And he wants to put a small shed inline with the outbuilding. The small area in front of the inspection chamber will be paved, so this will become there bin store/recycling area as currently they have it on my side.

There is quite a bit of land to the side of the building, and planning to have a path put down here for my own access.

Currently the path is shared, and to get to my garden, I had to go through his to get to mine. Last year I spent a lot of money re-orientating the access. So now I can get to my garden at the rear behind the outbuilding without having to go through theirs which is much better.

 

One of the reasons why I don't do jobs for people, I can end up short. Some people don't realise the time it takes to source and research the materials etc.

If a contractor had done the job they would have wanted a lot more for the job.

One job I did a few years back was to replace doors for someone nearby, I was working on the front fitting my own doors when I was asked by a passerby If I do jobs, so I went and worked out the job.

Job gave me some experience and was only a short distance away (100 yds). When I finished the job the people were happy with the work and I remember them paying me a lot extra I had quoted, these types of people I would be happy working for.

 

Yea, just hope I get paid now, been nearly 2 weeks and no mention of any payment