Gas boiler / condensate query

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Mosaix, Nov 29, 2016.

  1. Mosaix

    Mosaix Member

    DA, very clear description, thanks. Don't know why I didn't think of doing it that way. I'm probably going over again next week so I'll give it a try. I'll let you know how I get on.
  2. I've had a wee look at typical condensate runs in installation booklets, and I see no issue with that setup whatsoever.

    Run the condensate in rigid 22mm plastic pipe ('overflow' pipe) all the way, tho' - making sure it has a steady fall throughout. I'd then elbow it at the mouth of the receiving waste pipe, and have a piece extending inside at least an inch. Clip all the pipes thoroughly so's there's no chance of it popping oot.

    If it's easier, you can run the waste pipe up towards the existing condensate pipe too - even 1 1/4" pipe. So if it's easier, insert that tee as before and then take its side connection - reduced to 1 1/4" pipe if you want - along and then up to meet the condensate pipe. Keep the top inlet mouths of both pipes at the sameish height.
    Mosaix likes this.
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

  4. Mosaix

    Mosaix Member

    IMG_0487.JPG IMG_0488.JPG IMG_0489.JPG

    Okay, went over today and did the suggested fix. The image on the left is before I started. The condensate drain is just visible behind the white flex.

    The middle image is after the fix showing the drain now entering above the trap. The right hand image is from above the work top showing the w/m drain on the right and the condensate drain on the left. I cut the drain so it's a couple of inches short of the bottom of the elbow. I also clipped it to the wall to prevent it sagging down inside in the future as, once I'd cut it, it wasn't supported. In the picture it looks as if it's bent up a little, but there's a slight fall right to left. :)

    Job done!

    Thanks everyone for all your help and advice.
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2016
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  5. MAN! That is AWESOME MAN!

    It'''s... like I'd done it myself :D:eek::rolleyes::oops:
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  6. Mosaix

    Mosaix Member

    Don't know where I got the idea from DA. :)
  7. The idea was easy - it's the execution wot's awesome.

    Ach, enough buttering eachother up... :rolleyes:
  8. Mosaix

    Mosaix Member

    Okay, she's now had this year's service. Different engineer and he's quite happy with what I did last year.

    But... she says (her words) 'he mentioned that the gas meter has a wire missing but he didn't need to include it in the report'

    I assume from that that he thinks the incoming gas pipe should be bonded?

    Is this a strict requirement? Should she get it done?
  9. I would assume that's a bonding wire too - can't think of anything else.

    Sparkies will be along to advise on its importance (or start a new thread on the leccy forum).
    Mosaix likes this.
  10. Mosaix

    Mosaix Member

    Thanks, DA, will start a new thread.
  11. Mosaix

    Mosaix Member

    Apologies for re-opening an old thread...

    Referring to the photos in post #25, about a year ago water started overflowing the top of the open pipe on pump-out. I suspected blockage and used some chemical drain clean and that fixed the problem. Six weeks ago it started again. I went over and used one of those rotating brushes on the end of a wire (4' long so it reaches the kitchen sink that never backs up) in case it was blocked again - the brush came out clean. I've also increase the height of the top of the waste so it's now 5" above the top of the washing machine, but it still happens from time to time. The pipe is 40cm diameter which I think should be adequate.

    I've seen suggestions on the internet to seal the washing machine pipe in the outlet. Apart from not thinking this is a good idea water would just overflow the open pipe that the condensate drains into instead. Can't seal that as I would get siphoning of the condensate and that was what the problem was all about in the first place!

    Any help gratefully received.

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