Good wood for shelving

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Tangoman, Sep 2, 2004.

  1. Tangoman

    Tangoman Well-Known Member

    I want some shelving approx 1.5m wide and 30 cm deep.
    Would solid pine from the local timber merchant be a good choice or is it too prone to warping?

  2. PowerTool

    PowerTool New Member

    Have always found pine of shelving proportions (18mm or less planed-all-round) prone to "cupping" i.e. the growth rings trying to straighten out,rather than warping along its length.
    Kiln dried timber generally better,but always check for straightness before buying by sighting along its length.
  3. Yoho

    Yoho New Member

    I've used yellow pine - single piece - for similar sizes. No cupping or warping problems, but the wood did shrink a bit.
  4. Yes your local timber merchant should be a good source.

    Ask them to laminate several pieces, rather than try for 1 piece 300mmm wide. Ideally 3 or 4 pieces with the heart side alternating up and down. "normal" 25mm PSE timber is usually finished out between 20 -25mm. You could ask them to machine some thicker stock to finish at 30-35mm, depends what you want the shelves to hold.

    Be prepared for some shrinkage, especially if the house is centrally heated, poss up to 3-4mm.
  5. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    depend on how you build it
    what its load is going to be
    and what its purpous is
    [is it a book case]

    big all
  6. Tangoman

    Tangoman Well-Known Member

    Ay, it's for books.

    Last lot of softwood I got was for flooring - 40mm thick boards and they cupped quite a bit.

  7. Tangoman

    Tangoman Well-Known Member

    They are to be supported at either end and in the middle.

  8. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    your wood comes in approximatly if you get it from
    a wood yard 20mm by 95[4inch]120[5inch]146[6inch]170[7inch]
    assuming you are going to back it with
    7mm t+g cladding you will be ok
    if you laminate together two 7 inch boards for the top
    a 6 and a7inch board for the sides and bottom shelve
    you attach the top sides and bottom shelve together
    with dowels buiscuts or screws with all back edges together

    you then router out a 7mm by 7mm groove for t+ g

    you then insert the shevlves 2x4 inch +5 inch laminated

    you router all components before fitting if you want
    a routerd edge

    so your top is 340 mm your sides are316mm minus 7mm
    for t+g =309 shelves are300

    hey presto

    if you need any more tips just ask

    big all
    shelves are
  9. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    ok its as a shelving unit

    your best to laminate
    or another good solution is 9 inch [new scafold boards]
    they are about 40mm although they are sawn they are clean
    selected for minimum twist knots cupping ect
    make a lovely finnish

    big all
  10. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    and i forgot to mention you wont easily get
    pine at more than 10 inches

    also if your wood is captive as in a book case
    with a back the wood is held and any tendances
    are kept in check and because i laminate its
    a lot more stable

    big all
  11. Dewy

    Dewy New Member

    For less movement you would be better off joining 2 boards with biscuits making sure that one boards growth rings are the opposite way to the other board.
    When one cups up the other will cup down making it more stable with only half the movement on each board.
  12. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    Hi Tango,

    There is a weight and span issue to resolve here. I imagine your collection of chemistry books might be a bit heavy so you need to work out the loading and if the span of your shelves will be too great. Sure you can support the middle but this may not look aesthetically pleasing. Weight will bend most timbers over a period of time so getting the support right is important.

    I would definitely rip wider boards and joint them alternating the growth rings as suggested but I would also rout a channel an inch in from the front edge and get some mild steel in to reinforce the shelf. This method means that you do not need T&G backing which might make room decoration options better.

    Of course if the shelves are only for paperbacks then the steel may not be necessary.

  13. mof

    mof Member

    Just get some good quality 3/4" ply or blockboard cut into the required width and edge with veneer or timber, job done.
  14. Tangoman

    Tangoman Well-Known Member

    You're right about the Chem stuff dwd. That little lot are mostly boxed up now - so it's mainly paperbacks.

    I wasn't planning on building full bookcase here. Simply shelves on brackets. For simplicity, the brackets where you have a track fitted vertically to the wall and brackets slot in. From experience these seem to be the most reliable quick fix shelving. A support in the middle will be essential on a 1.5m span.

    Laminating block board sounds like the best plan - can you buy prelaminated blockboard which you just do the end on after cutting to size?

  15. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    wicks do timbaboard[laminated]
    600 xabout1800!! by18mm about £27
    or it was about 5 years ago
    so thats 2 shelves a lengh

    big all
  16. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    another point

    its worth considering graduating the shelves
    as small books will disappear on large high shelves
    and aesthetically looks less warehouse and more domestic

    big all

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