hardboard'ing floor prior to carpeting

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by nomis, Apr 4, 2005.

  1. nomis

    nomis New Member

    I'm planning to hardboard a floor prior to having carpets laid.

    Is there a quick method of nailing? I have three bedrooms and a landing to do. Is it worth investing in a nailer, or do you need to use particular nails that a nailer is unable to 'fire'?
     
  2. Chippy John

    Chippy John New Member

    Quickest way I've done it is with a Spotnailer, it's like a big staple gun that you hit with a rubber mallet

    Don't forget to wet the boards in first, and lay them rough side up.
     
  3. Vinny

    Vinny New Member

    I had some laid few months back prior to laying some cushioned vinyl,after few weeks the boards popped up so had to take out all the furniture and screw the ******* boards down !!

    Thinking of laying the boards myself for the next load of vinyl.

    Would screwing them in be ok ? What did you mean by wet the boards in ? Also is there a particular way to lay the boards ? Do i leave a gap between board and skirting ?

    Cheers
     
  4. Chippy John

    Chippy John New Member


    after few weeks the boards popped up so had to take out
    all the furniture and screw the ***** boards down



    That's cos they weren't wetted in.:)


    Re. wetting in,I've copied the appropriate bit from another site:-

    Conditioning

    To prevent sheets buckling due to a change in moisture content, manufacturers recommend they should be conditioned before use. There are two ways of doing this.

    * For standard and LM (low density) type medium and tempered boards, scrub the backs with water, using I litre to every 2440 x 1220mm sheet. Then stack the sheets flat, back to back, for 24-48 hours (48-72 hours for tempered boards).
    * For HM (high-density) type, medium boards and all boards to be used in centrally heated surroundings, stack the sheets on edge in the room where they are to be used, separating them with wood off cuts to allow the air to circulate. Leave HM medium boards for 48 hours and other boards for 72 hours before using them.


    You could screw them, but it's a lot of screwing as they should be fixed about every 150mm. If you're going to fix by hand then 25mm ring nails is best.

    I've always used 1220 X 600 boards and staggered the joints when I lay them, (just like chipboard flooring), a small gap of up to about 5mm at the skirting won't hurt but it's not critical.

    There's another site here with info:-

    http://www.silverman.co.uk/tech/tech01.php
     
  5. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    i have always sealed all hardbord prior to fixing to floors and pinned down at 100mm centres using a cheapo arrow nail gun using 15 mm brads i would be loath to use 25 ring nails because if you happen to be nailing into whitewood flooring ie 18mm finish thickness boards you the tip of the nail may end up protruding by 2 or 3mm and we all know what they can do to a pipe
     
  6. dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds New Member

    chippejohn

    spot nailer, similar to a flooring nailer? where from?
     
  7. Chippy John

    Chippy John New Member

    i would be
    loath to use 25 ring nails because if you happen to
    be nailing into whitewood flooring ie 18mm finish
    thickness boards you the tip of the nail may end up
    protruding by 2 or 3mm and we all know what they can
    do to a pipe

    Your right of course, the fixings need to be appropriate for the job, however I've never laid hardboard on anything other than 22mm floorboards.


    *************************************************
    dd,

    It's about 20 years since I used one so I suspect there is probably a more modern alternative nowadays, but the spotnailer is very fast once you are used to using it and would take some beating for speed even with a more modern tool.

    I can find a couple for hire, there's one here:-

    (near the bottom, but no piccies unfortunately)

    http://www.hiretools.com/flooringandcleaning.htm
     
  8. dirtydeeds

    dirtydeeds New Member

    thanks for getting back chippiej, i also found hire sites with no pictures.

    would you consider a paslode brad nailer suitable for hardboard
     
  9. nomis

    nomis New Member

    Thanks for all the posts.

    In the past I've used panel pins, but there's been no mention of these, so I assume that's not the preferred method!

    My only concern is that the nails inserted using a nailer will 'pull through' the hardboard. From the sounds of it though, this has not presented a problem for other people.
     
  10. dewaltdisney

    dewaltdisney New Member

    Hi Nomis,

    The problem is that with the natural flex in the floorboards pins will pull straight through the hardboard after a short period. Lay the hardboard sheets at right angles to the floor boards.

    Two fixing choices in my opinion would be staples or screws. Staples will pinch a section of hardboard which is less likely to pull through and you can hammer these flush into the hardboard. The downside is that if this is on the first floor hammering might cause grief to the ceiling below :( You can buy electric staplers but this might be a bit extravagant for a one off!!

    Using screws you will need to countersink 3/4" chipboard screws that have a big shank and head. Space these every 9" in a square pattern across the sheets concentrating on the walking areas in the room. Tape the joins and screw heads with duct tape to avoid a kick edge and to protect the underside of the floor covering from screw marks showing through if you use vinyl. Two cordless drills, one with a countersink and one to drive the screws in will make it easier.

    A few ideas, hope they are useful,

    DWD
     
  11. ChewieT

    ChewieT New Member

    Use ring shank nails, they won't pull out.
     

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