Having fitted my kitchen units, I now need to cut and fit the decorative plinth that sits top and bottom of the units, but my saw is chipping the gloss plastic covering on the wood and the mitre cut isn't very straight. Its not the angle of the mitre (that's acurate) but when I push the two mitred pieces together, they dont sit very flush and wobble about. Where am I going wrong and how do I stop the chipping. This is the saw I have: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=101401&ts=64679&id=27291#
The chipping is probably down to the blade having too few teeth. If you are sure you are cutting at the correct angle and positioning angled cornice in the correct orientation, then the poor joints may be down to not holding the piece rock solid still whilst cutting.
Thanks Foxy. You are prob right as I don't think I have been clamping very tightly. I will try with a blade with more teeth. thanks for your help! bonk.
Hi Bonker (ahem...) An obvious thing to ask - sorry - but is the moulding the 'corect' way around in the saw, so that the blade cuts into the decorative front surface? If the blade cuts from behind so that it 'bursts' through the front, it will almost certainly leave a tatty edge. Also, cut through as slowly as possible. And, look closely at the part of the moulding that will be sitting flat on the units - this MUST also be sitting perfectly flat on your saw when you do the cut, or else the cut will be at an angle. Finally, if it ends up being only a tiny bit out, try bonding the mitres together as neatly as possible using 'Mitre-Fix' or similar, which is a two-part 'superglue' which sets in a few seconds, and then gently screw the moulding in place - it should flex the slight amount to let it do this.
Hi. Thanks for your tips. Yeah, I had the decorative side up etc.. and tried to cut REAL slow... but no matter how slow it keeps gettign minute chips I guess I haven't got it clamped well enough and thats why the joins aren't tight, but the angle is spot on etc.. I think I will by a new blade and see if that helps. I am using the correct procedure and tools for this kind of task though??? Could it be the saw is too cheap and not good enough quility for this job ?
i always cut coving upside down, using crown mouldings on my saw, a bit of wood clamped would do the same, can be a bit of a brain teaser at times but it gives a perfect cut, the pelmet (lower bit) are you cutting this in the vertical position with the good face towards you and adjusting the blade of the saw horizontally? it can take a bit of practice cutting this stuff and slow and steady is the key, and a very sharp blade, (i dont cut anything else with the blade i have fitted) and as mentioned get some mitre fast, but dont get it on ya fingers!! russ
Ditch the blade that came with the Rexon, and buy a good quality blade, you'll be amazed at the difference. Cheers, Simes.
If you want a really fine finish look for a blade that has a "Triple Chip" tooth configuration, often sold for cutting plastics and aluminium also. Every other tooth has a bevel ground on the sides of the tooth, this has the effect of scribing and cutting at the same time. It will cost more money but the finish will be far superior. Obviously the more teeth the finer the finish, HTH andy@trend
I tried cutting some crown moulding with that exact saw, and gave up. I couldn't get it to cut very well. I switched to a different saw and all was fine. It's the saw, or the original blade. That rexon saw is extremely vicious.
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