Help pitted ceiling

Discussion in 'Painters' Talk' started by markh1, Mar 11, 2021.

  1. markh1

    markh1 Member

    I’m having a right nightmare on my ceiling, I know I’m not getting super expensive paint but that hasn’t caused this before. I normally use bog standard dulux 10l tubs and it would take 3-4 coats. So I wanted to speed up the job by getting a better paint so got some contract Leyland and Still painted 4 times -18sq m plus coving, as always patchy. I ran out of paint so got some crown standard brilliant white Matt to try that. Was actually thicker than contract white, I applied a decent coat not spread thinly and and still looked like a suede ceiling all patchy.

    I’ve attached a photo of a patch, tried sanding As can see smooth edge but clearly it’s pitted quite deep. Short of sanding 4-5 coats of paint off or skimming entire ceiling any tips on best way to reduce these? Do I water the crown paint down slightly as clearly applying a thick coat hasn’t helped. Do I switch to a Smooth sponge roller?(photo of roller used attached) odd given exactly same roller used on other ceilings with dulux paint and not been an issue so only cause I can think of must be the thicker paint.

    the ceiling was previously painted a magnolia colour from original owner, I did have to do some crack repairs but used toupret and gave those sections a thinned coat. Plus patches are all over not just the areas of repair.

    It’s only visible looked from the side across the ceiling. Sat underneath and looks all same colour. I’ve seen expensive £110 diamond dulux but don’t want to spend that much for it to make absolutely no difference.

    Any advice appreciated, thanks

    Attached Files:

  2. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    Is that ceiling supposed to be smooth or is it a wood chip paper you are painting over.
  3. markh1

    markh1 Member

    Smooth, standard plastered ceiling. Random over ceiling so not confined to one area such as repair area. The majority of the ceiling was the untouched painted ceiling from house builders, although it looked like a sheen emulsion used, guessing spray job as walls coving and ceiling all the same colour.
  4. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    Sand. Seal. Wall smother. Sand. Prime. Emulsion using big roller.

    Some errors made to get that but can't say what. Probably pay to get pro in and spec what you want. Might pay to find a person that sprays to get the finish you want
  5. markh1

    markh1 Member

    Thanks but is this the only option as by the time I do all that I might as well get it skimmed. Given Im using the same roller and the ceiling is no different than the others in the house the only difference was the pain used it clearly has to have been a paint issue, as every other ceiling Ive done has been fine - its not like Ive changed the technique Ive used or the ceiling surface is any different so it has to have been a dodgy paint tub. What type of roller would you suggest - I normally paint walls and ceilings using a short pile roller, i stick clear of the fluff ones as they tend to leave bits in the paint, so would a smooth sponge roller be worth a go?
  6. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    Dimond matt needs a primer over pourus surface.
    I'm going to guess so forgive.
    Durable emulsion used over contract matt.
    You need to add 20% water for first coat and don't mess and leave 5+ hours to cure then apply a full coat.

    If you keep rolling over the semi dried emulsion already applied, it starts pickling and then it's tempting to roll more paint over making it worse which some then try rolling more over and so on.

    What's the application data sheet (look online) say for the paint you used over pourus surfaces?
  7. markh1

    markh1 Member

    I used Leyland contract matt from screwfix to begin with this is over existing painted ceiling so wasn't pourus, the repaired parts had two thinned coats over them to seal with 6 hrs between those coats, then painted the full ceiling tried several coats using the entire 10l tub in the end on an 18sqm ceiling most of the time leaving a day between coats once I left 6 hrs. Heating off while painting. Then yesterday painted with a crown matt (standard emulsion (was actually thicker than the Leyland contract paint) - this was a full coat probably used 1/3 of the 10l tub. I avoid rerolling after application, the odd line taken out but not that often.

    My thought was puta thinned coat of the crown on again and then a full coat after - but not sure and not sure if I should change from a short pile roller as per picture to a smooth sponge one?
  8. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select


    Sand it over. Leyland primer undercoat with
    Hamilton 12 inch (green roller screwfix ) then crown trade vinyl matt

    Abandon contract matt..

    Or Sand over. Hamilton roller again with Leyland primer undercoat.
    Dulux super flat..
    Dont mix paint types from contract chalky paints to vinyl paint.
    Stick with one
  9. Dr Decorator

    Dr Decorator Active Member

    Never seen pitting like that before, as wayners says, good sanding, only problem you may have after is smooth spots.
  10. markh1

    markh1 Member

    Ok thanks, the last paint applied was a crown pure brilliant white which I thought wasn't a vinyl paint, doesn't state vinyl on the tub so haven't mixed them, I still have 7l of this left so assume I should abandon this as well. - I only thought it was a choice of vinyl and non vinyl - didnt realise contract matt was different than non-vinyl - I assumed it was just the manufacturers version of "trade" paint.

    Must admit not used vinyl before as I thought it still had a sheen over non-vinyl or yellows quicker than non-vinyl. I was always told Matt paint is best as hides imperfections in the wall better, not sure if Vinyl is even better at hiding imperfections due to the resin added.
  11. markh1

    markh1 Member

    Neither have I, I found by sanding it makes very smooth areas around the pitting, so I guess I need to sand more, even with a big sanding pad Im unsure if this will make the ceiling worse by resulting dimples or wavy ceiling from sanding more in certain areas. Ideally a paint would just cover over but clearly this hasnt happened after so many coats of paint. Im beginning to think the best I will get is to minimise the patchy areas. I can only assume the original paint was a bad batch and dried funny, I did the usual 2 coats a good few hours apart and then thought it was patchy due to coverage so kept adding coats 5 in total until I ran out of paint -so all Ive done is keep adding more bad paint on the ceiling. Foolishly thinking get a different brand matt white non vinyl would fix it but hasnt made a difference. - At this rate I will just tell people its a suede effect paint and live with it as its holding up all the rest of the decorating.
  12. Dr Decorator

    Dr Decorator Active Member

    Best bet really, sand and fill, line it with 1400g paper, then paint

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