Help! Stud wall in new kitchen.

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Danielle93, Sep 10, 2018.

  1. Danielle93

    Danielle93 Active Member

    So my kitchen fitting process is going well, just the wall units to fit now which I thought was a fairly easy job until DISASTER, my mum just told me you can't put wall units on a stud wall. The wall has no brickwork in it, literally just two bits of plaster board and wood. (Which is odd and the stairs run up one side) I bought the metal plaster board plugs:

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPXI1Pi3sN0CFULS3godDeIPjA

    which are great, but mum says just plaster board won't support the weight of the units. Unfortunately this is where pretty much all my wall units have been planned to go (kitchen designer never asked what kind of wall it was) including my glass fronted ones. What are my options, my very expensive glass doors are not returnable and I'd rather have no wall units. I've already installed the base cabinet, worktop and tiles . Only suggestion my mum came up with was to remove the plaster board from the other side and brick up behind the kitchen side plaster board. Can imagine this would be a pretty hefty job and the stairs are there.

    Please Help!
     
  2. rogerk101

    rogerk101 Well-Known Member

    I ran into the same problem as you have several years ago.
    Instead of plasterboard on studs, I used plywood on studs. I mounted my kitchen wall units directly into the plywood, and tiled the gap between the base units and wall units directly onto the plywood. It's been there for years now, completely without problems. I strongly suggest using a very good quality flexible slow set tiling adhesive for sticking the tiles onto the plywood.
     
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  3. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

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  4. rogerk101

    rogerk101 Well-Known Member

    OK, I've just seen you other thread from which it looks like you've already tiled onto the plasterboard!
    Not to worry ... all is not lost ... all you've now got to do is mount the plywood above your beautifully laid tiles. You can either remove the plasterboard above the tiles and replace it with plywood, or you can just mount the plywood in front of the plasterboard. Either way, the important thing is that the plywood is well screwed into the studs. I would use 15mm plywood or thicker, as you could be carrying a lot of weight in those wall cupboards --- lots of crockery, lots of tins of stuff, bottles of stuff, etc.
     
  5. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Similar to what rogerk101 suggests.

    Cut away the plasterboard from above your tiles. Put some extra 4x2 noggins when the line of fixings will be - use it wide side facing forwards and screw to the existing stud work with the first 2.5" above and 1.5" below the fixing line, the second 1.5" above, 2.5" below - this will let you screw through from the other side of the stud and not at an angle? Then fit ply to the studs - probably 15mm to match the plasterboard level or preferably go for 18mm which will not be noticed as the tiles will be forward of that anyway.
     
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  6. glob@l

    glob@l Member

    These fixings should be fine and will save you a lot of unnecessary work, remember each wall cabinet is also secured to each other.
     
  7. rogerk101

    rogerk101 Well-Known Member

    I don't know about others, but my wall units carry a LOT of weight ... for example, just one shelf of one unit carries 10 dinner plates, 10 side plates, 10 bowls, 10 cups, 10 saucers, and a few other bits and pieces. I would not feel comfortable relying on plasterboard, no matter which fixings were used into it.
     
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  8. candoabitofmoststuff

    candoabitofmoststuff Active Member

    Though, to be fair, your mum was right to be concerned!
    Regards,
    Cando
     
  9. Danielle93

    Danielle93 Active Member

    I knew that it would divide opinion! The units hang but what if I screwed extra screws in the bottom corners and put a strip of wood underneath as extra support? The corner unit will be attached to a brick wall as well (it's a 90° corner unit). The extra screws will be covered by things in my cupboards anyway. Thoughts?
     
  10. RolandK

    RolandK Active Member

    I had to hang wall cabinets to a plasterboard wall which will be quite heavy when in use.
    I used Gripit fixings (from SF) and quite impressed with them. You might find some of your fixing points align with studs so screw directly into those for a really strong fix.
     
  11. Danielle93

    Danielle93 Active Member

    Actually, a layer of plywood above the plaster board may be a good idea. Even if it's only to the same thickness as my tiles (7.5mm) How do you got about finding where the studs are behind the plaster board? Is this an ear to the wall job?
     
  12. Danielle93

    Danielle93 Active Member

    www.gripitfixings.co.uk/products/gripit-blue
    These? Say they can hold up to 113kg and are made for kitchen cabinets. Seem to be my best bet.
     
  13. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    As the wall cabinets will hide any mess, it is easy enough to find the studs - just drill a large hole and feel for them.

    Gripits are great, and will work. (provided you don't half hit a stud).

    You can also use a continuous hanger rail instead of the individual hanger brackets. e.g. https://www.locksonline.com/Cabinet-Hanger-Wall-Rail-2032mm-Long-6492.html

    which you can fit to the studs. You have to slightly notch out the backs of the intermediate cabinets to accommodate the rail.

    I have also often used those fittings kitfit suggests and they are really good BUT in my experience they need to be put in with care to get a good fixing - the second you over tighten them they are toast.

    Also, keep an eye out for your electrical cables to your sockets - they should be either vertical or horizontal from the sockets
     
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  14. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    I would either use the rails as Rusty said or the Redidrivas kitfit linked to, both work.
    If you use the rails once you have found 1 stud the next will be either 400mm or 600mm along.
    If you use the Redidrivas never try and remove the screw once fitted, it will screw itself out of the wall and leave a big hole.
     
  15. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    As usual, many ways to do the same job .......

    Do your cabinets screw through backs onto wall or do they hang from adjustable hooks - take a look at SF 91611 - Nylon Cabinet Bracket

    If the brackets, then great, just need to buy cabinet hanging rail, don’t think SF sell so on-line, available in various lengths

    Nice beefy screws through rail and PB into studs, hang cabinets, adjust, happy days

    If cabinets aren’t fitted with these brackets, they’re not that difficult to fit and ‘should’ retro fit most cabinets I believe. Just need to notch out side of unit so sits over hanging rail

    I’m only diy me but personally, wouldn’t feel happy hanging a wall cabinet purely on reddi drivers
     
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  16. RolandK

    RolandK Active Member

  17. Danielle93

    Danielle93 Active Member

    They hang from the adjustable hooks. I like the idea of the continuous hanging rail, that I can fix onto the studs, still may put a strip underneath the cabinets for extra support and piece of mind. I'd rather see a strip of wood under my cabinets than my cabinets on the floor!
     
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  18. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    If you screw a rail into the studs with decent screws you don't need a batten underneath.
     
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  19. Danielle93

    Danielle93 Active Member

    I think I've been reading too many DIY disasters and my nervous disposition cant cope :p
     
  20. RolandK

    RolandK Active Member

    If you can use the rails that would be the best solution as you can use the studs to fix to. As said above you won't need a batten underneath. In any case the loaded wall cabinets would tend to be pulling on the fixings in effect trying to pull them out of the wall rather than the load pulling straight down if you see what I mean.
    Also it's much easier to work with rail when fixing it to the wall and getting it dead level than trying to do it with cabinets themselves.
     
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