This conversation took a turn... The wall units are up! Had to wait for my rail to arrive Found my missing studs 600mm apart (unfortunately only wood studs and no REAL stud..) Bought those gripfit fixings and put a couple of those between each one for good measure. Given them a good wiggle and they're not budging. Either the worktop/tiles/cabinets aren't 100% straight, so there's a little discrepancy between the cabinets and the tiles from one end to the other but nothing a little edging strip won't hide. Don't know how long it'll take me to trust them enough to actually put anything in them though... It appears that wall units are bloody heavy! I did almost take a tumble at one point, sending my spirit level flying which has dinted the edge of my shiney new worktop. (I could have cried) anyone recommend a good diy repair kit?
Laminate- light wood effect. If you weren't looking for It, you wouldn't notice it, I know it's there though so I see it every time!
Rats! Not sure what to suggest, but I'm sure others will be able to advise. If it had been a full 'chip' - a missing piece - then something like 'Unika Colorfill' would probably be an option. But since the material is still there, I wonder if over-coating using carefully applied teeny drips of a satin varnish to build up the level would do better, and blend in more? But, I don't know...
Varnish might be the way, but it would need testing first to make sure is did not react. Maybe some Colorfill to hide the cracks and then build up. Was sticks - probably not. I don't think Danielle would have said rats - it would probably have been some a lot more un-ladylike!
It looks tiny - only you will ever spot it. Annoying, and one of the risks of DIY. It's not really possible to do anything other than apply a little coloured filler over it. Colorfil is an option - never used the wax sticks, but maybe? Colorfil is available in many different shades to match worktop colours and is really a joint sealer, but a little bit would possibly help to hide and seal that dint. Or you could try allsorts idea of a little satin varnish just to seal it and level it off. One of the tricks to making things look right is not always to put them up absolutely straight. If your floor/units/tiles all slope very slightly, then your units should do to!
Oh dear. Don't worry though you can make that slight mishap vanish. Buy some small pots of acrylic paint (dark brown and an off white) B&Q used to sell them years ago although I'm not sure if they still do. Try, eBay, Amazon or an art shop. Mix a tiny amount of each until you achieve a good match for the lightest colour in the worktop. Apply that sparingly to the damaged area making sure it gets into the cracks. Wait a few minutes then rub down lightly with a fine grade wet and dry paper. Apply further coats until the dint is just about level with to the good edge. For a final coat you'll need to mix a couple of different shades that match the grain effect of the worktop. Use a tiny artists brush following the grain, and leave to dry for 10-15 mins. Final going over with wet and dry then buff with t-cut or similar. For a dent that size you should be able to accomplish this in about an hour. It will be that good that in a few days time you won't even be able to find it yourself.
I'm 2 minutes from a hobby craft so will have a look. Pretty arty so like to think I can give it a fair go!
It's only a light dink, but still reasonably large and unfortunately on probably the most visible edge. The reason I think I'd go for varnish in this is that the damaged piece is still there, so no colour or grain matching needs to be done - it really just needs covering and protecting. Build up layers (use water-based for easier use) for a few days, and then some fine paper (300 grit or so) on a small flat block to level it off, taking care not to damage the surrounding laminate. I've seen vids of excellent results using a few shades of paint as Longsie suggests, but it does need skill and patience. Which I'm sure you have in spades... Bear in mind, tho', that you should get it up to the surrounding level first using built-up layers. Check YouTube for demos.