Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by spannerw, May 18, 2020.
No, Still rocking on the join on 3rd row,seems to even out on the 4th.
If you’ve got solid internal walls not stud the next bit is easy, pick a fully board, preferably to the left of the door run multitool down the joints 22mm ish and prise one out, carry on for the rest of the row and then the rest will come out without cutting. Once that’s out whip the insulation out and then it’s thinking cap on time
Bit late to start cutting boards out now so I will have a go tomorrow evening.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your help so far. You are a true gent
Nah I’m a cheap handyman lol
Typo, it should have daid
Typo, meant to say, on the full chipboard, and should have said bump and not dip, since it improves as you move away from door l go back to my original thought that the support joist below the joint has been laid on a slight slant up towards the door area or it has warped
Ah see what you mean now Yes it does improve the further away from the door I go.
I will be taking Abrickies advice tomorrow evening and taking the t & g up and se what’s happening.
Neighbour (architect) has been round this morning while I am at work and had a look.
From what I understand he is saying, that section of flooring takes the majority of the foot fall and it is probably just settlement in the insulation.
He has suggested 5mm ply over the top of the existing flooring, he says it wont be perfect but with decent underlay the laminate will be ok and sit level.
I realise you are just a cheap handyman but does this sound reasonable to you?
Obviously if I have to lift the t&g I will.
That was my bodge option lol, it’s a damn sight easier and cheap than lifting the t&g. If I was doing this for my daughter the t&g would be coming up, doing it for myself, break out the ply
Cobblers. Why should adding 5mm to a non-flat floor help. It'll just be 5mm higher. Trying to lay laminate over humps is a fools game. You fight it forever, and it is never a good job. You need to get that floor flat. You might want to invest in a little laser level - really handy for all DIY jobs - something like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-quigo-self-levelling-cross-line-red-beam-laser/4708x
Stand little blocks over the floor - lego bricks work great as they are uniform in size - and beam that laser across the floor so the line catches the little blocks and you'll be able to tell very easily where any high spots are. Low spots are easier because you can float a little self-levelling in, but humps have to be got rid of. If it is just one joist, then it's not too much of a job.
It's worth spending the time to get it flat, because then any flooring like laminate or tiles you fit will go down like, well, lego!
Another suggestion he came up with was hiring a belt sander to get rid of high spots on the joints.
And does neighbours explanation of what has caused it sound right?
The explanation makes sense, but I wouldn’t be hiring a belt sander lol
Have you ask the option of John yet ?
Not yet, I was hoping he might pop up with some words of wisdom but he seems very quiet today. Think I might phone him as he put his number on another thread about extensions.
Ply it is then!! I take it I just screw it to the t&g? Do I need to leave expansion gaps anywhere? Room is 6m x 4m?
Personally I’d leave a gap of a couple of mm, and as it’s for laminate just screws should be fine, just plenty of them.
Couple of mm around each board or around the edge of the room? How many screws per board?
Gap all round each board, screws I’d do every 150-200mm but I don’t pay for them lmao
I,m sure I can convince my boss he needs to buy loads of screws so I can fix his buses with them
So got a whole load of ply today, I have been doing some research into laying it. Some say start slap bang in the middle of the room and work out and others say just start in a corner.
Any cheap handymen out there got any thoughts?
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