(Heatslave 26/32) Just because I contacted Hive and they told me and electrician wouldn’t be able to fit one to my boiler I thought I’d quickly write this up for anyone in the same position . The original boiler setup uses a facial mounted programmer and a thermostat. You’ll need: Hive active heating and hot water thermostat. 5 core cable (Nexans Round Flex 3185Y 5-Core 1mm² 5m White Item Number 1770T). From the Worcester Heatslave install and servicing manual I added on the hive receiver numbering. Having isolated the boiler I wired the units up: Hive receiver unit: Heatslave unit: You’ll need to remove the front panel of the boiler. Connect earth. Thermostat needs to be removed and don’t forget to link the terminals it comes from. I would show it but have reached my picture limit apparently! Hope this is some help to any one considering installing one
Hi - this is excellent thank you. My brother-in-law has a Greenstar Heatslave II 18/25 oil boiler so this seems pretty close. A couple of questions if you don't mind: 1) currently the boiler is controlled by a Worcester Comfort controller which is connected via 2 core cable to the EMS bus on the boiler - presumably we just disconnect this from the boiler? 2) He has bought a single channel Hive as it's a combi boiler, but I think you have installed a dual channel Hive. I saw someone comment somewhere that the Heatslave is not really a combo as it has an internal water tank. Is there a way to use the single channel Hive with this boiler or is it better to take that one back and get a dual?
Hi, Did you find the answer to question 2? I have made the same mistake and have the single channel version. Did you get this to work or do I need to return? I bought this on Prime Day so sadly will lose out money wise if I need to swap!!
The internal tank is just a preheat for the hot water isn't it, I'm sure it can be used as a conversational combi, just takes longer for the hot water to get to the tap.
I didn’t get a notification about this old one but I’ll reply to it now! 1)Yes disconnect the originally controller as the hive system is replacing it so it is no longer needed. 2) If you want independent control of the hot water and heating you need the dual version. Because it’s a Combi I guess you could just use the single channel to control the heating and then always have the hot water on? In which case you could either: -leave the originally controllers hot water connected and turn it on from the front panel. - make a jumper wire that connects the live to the hot water Chanel input. I would personally return it and get the dual Channel.
It’s not a very well know type of boiler actually. It’s believed they stopped developing them in the late 2000s because it took so long for them to get anything done.
Hi Chris, Could you upload any pictures showing the removal of the thermostat and the linking of the terminals please? If you have available. I happy with all the info on the original post just want to get my around the removal and linking the terminals for the thermostat. Thanks Sy
hive installed with healslave 20/25 - Getting enough room to get to the lower right bock was only issue, and this as far up as it would go. .
Jeremy, I have the same boiler and looking to wire in a Hive Reciever - do you have any more pictres or instructions\advice, any guidance really welcomed!?
I have the older version, wired as C plan, and I had a problem as the three core and earth between boiler and main house has lost a core, also swapped colours from red, yellow, blue to brown, black, grey some where en-route. So I wanted a two wire control which uses extra low voltage to work both CH and DHW. My cure was to use Nest, in hind sight likely Hive would have been better, as you can link TRV heads to it. However there is no wiring diagram for Nest with a C plan, it means swapping in and out terminals so it can work, not an option with hive as hive not volt free, so this Is the basic plan I used, in my case a little more involved as two pumps and two motorised valves so flat independent to main house, also two thermostats, flat very basic as rarely used. Basic idea is DHW works boiler only, and CH works boiler and pump. But is seems there have been many versions of the HeatSlave, so one has to be careful following what worked for some one else, as your boiler may be different. Before fitting Nest not only two separate supplies for central heating, but three FCU's and two came from different distribution boards one from a fuse box the other from a consumer unit. Now it has 10 independent power sources, but 9 are pairs of AA cells in the TRV heads, there is only one FCU, also now only one distribution unit with all RCBO protected.