All sorted! Works perfectly. I’ll write up a recap of what I did after to help others. It’s as exactly as you said so thanks for all your help
I have never worked out why one should need two Hive thermostats? From what I read the Hive thermostat has a "Demand for Heat" system, so the Hive head can switch on the wall thermostat, but the standard motorised valve it seems does not take the Hive head, it seems to be designed to have a motorised valve on each radiator rather than one valve for a group of radiators. With all the houses I have lived in, upstairs is always warmer than down stairs, and the upstairs radiators always seem to be over sized. So if you control down stairs with a wall thermostat, you can have programmable TRV heads up-stairs as boiler run time is enough without any "Demand for Heat" being required. I decided to use individual control for each room, with the wall thermostat in the hall, so only the hall controlled 24/7, all other rooms as required, but it has not really worked. What is missing is a big stick which raps my wife on knuckles every time she leaves a door open. The main living room has raising butt hinges, she has a gnome she uses to hold the door open, but not all the time, so we have a learning thermostat (Nest Gen 3) that can never learn as there is no constant set up, with doors being left open or closed. Nine programmable TRV heads, 4 being wifi and 5 bluetooth, but all to no avail as doors left open. cau'r drws she understands, but not willing to do it. So all this work and money to set up smart controls to no avail, is it just a Palmer thing? I am from the Palmer's who started the shipyard, maybe I need to stamp my feet until they go through the floor like Sir Charles Mark Palmer?
Hi Steve, im pretty sure i have exactly the same set up as you, looks identical, even down to the carpet haha do you have a diagram of what you ended up doing with the wiring?
I tidied up the wiring afterwards as it was a bit of a mess. The only thing you need to figure out is which receiver is for which zone and make sure you wire the correct valve. oh and disregard the old thermostat wires that’ll make life easier
Brill Thank you Steve, this is what I have. Like I say looks the same as yours so should be straight forward? Only thing that looks different is my wiring in the boiler? My boiler is Ideal Logic ESP1 35
Yeah it’s pretty much identical and the carpet (haha) my boiler is logic es35. Although I didn’t have to worry about that at all. just figure out the valves wiring which is easy done as you can trace them back from the box. you can ditch the thermostats old wiring, once again that’s easy enough just figure out the two cables that have the same colour wiring as the thermostats. then it’s just linking the power cable up to the receivers. All the answers are contained with this post. The chap who helped me knew what he was doing. I just made it confusing and asked loads of daft questions because I was clueless.
Link live - terminal 1 on both hives. remove the black and brown wires as these belong to the old stat.
Then terminal 3 on both your hives go to the terminals that you removed those black wires from. 1 black wire to each brown wire.
Power to the wiring centre and the rest of your controls should be from a single fused connection unit. Trace the live feed back from the wiring centre.
I used this from Screwfix: https://www.screwfix.com/p/time-318...oRLbDJMDvqjUmCysc6waAqMdEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds You can see how I’ve wired the receiver with this pic. Didn’t use the black wire other than to bridge L & 1 on the Hive receiver. You’ll notice the black wire is clipped near to the white outer casing
Start a new post. Include as much details as possible. What you have fitted currently. What you plan to fit. What boiler you have. Pictures of existing wiring. The more details you initially include the less questions will need to be asked.