Honeywell t6360b to hive active heating

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Ollieelmo, Dec 31, 2019.

  1. Ollieelmo

    Ollieelmo New Member

    I wont be the 1st and I definitely wont he the last, but I have an ideal logic+ combi boiler, a honeywell t6360b 1028 thermostat and had hoped to install hive active heating reciever. However the wires i seem to have (will post a picture if I can work out how to) are live (red in port 1) switch live(yellow in port 3) earth and a redundant blue wire taped(assuming neutral).
    I totally misread the wires before ordering and am now at a loss with how to fit the hive reciever.
    Any help greatly welcome
     

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  2. MGW

    MGW Screwfix Select

    So you have it seems Line in, Line out, Neutral, and earth, so what is the problem, single channel hive needs what you already have, you will need a link line in to com, but seems rather straight forward.

    So what is the question?

    Not sure why the neutral is not connected, the neutral reduced the hysteresis, but in some systems you don't want the thermostat to turn off until the weather warms up, the TRV controls room temperature, but without the wall thermostat it would cycle on/off all summer.
     
  3. Mike83

    Mike83 Screwfix Select

    Trace the cable and check if the neutral is connected at the other end. It should be simple to wire.
    If fitting the receiver at the old stats location isn’t suitable then it can be fitted anywhere along this cable route without any major modifications.
    What programmer do you have though. The receiver usually replaces this.
     
  4. Ollieelmo

    Ollieelmo New Member

    I think I'm 2nd guessing myself, red and blue to L & N permanent (respectivly). Yellow into 3 (HO). Can you explain the link line for common? Thanks for your help!
     

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  5. Ollieelmo

    Ollieelmo New Member

    Simple built in dial programme, that I figure I will set to permanently on
     
  6. Mike83

    Mike83 Screwfix Select

    You need the link as the common will feed terminal 3 internally.
    On some installs the common is a actually fed from the boiler.
     
  7. Ollieelmo

    Ollieelmo New Member

    You were right to check the neutral was fed, I am going to add it into the same port as the other neutral wires, but have attached a photo, is there anything else I should be aware of?
     

    Attached Files:

  8. MGW

    MGW Screwfix Select

    If I want to fit a new thermostat the first thing is google the installation instructions, I then do a search for "opentherm" and "ebus" to see if one can fit a analogue thermostat or not, since Hive does not support analogue control a bit point less for you. Next is to look at if the thermostat is low voltage (230) or extra low voltage (often 24 volt) often boilers have all three options.

    Since you have found the neutral is not connected, you don't know if the boiler is 230 volt or 24 volt control, likely since same block as mains feed it is 230 volt control, but you can't take that as read. You could simply stick a meter on it.

    As said two reasons to fit a thermostat, one is simply to stop cycling, the other is to control the room temperature, the former often the thermostat is in the hall, the latter often in the living room, with the latter position is really important, with a radiator on the outside wall, the thermostat needs to be on opposite wall facing the radiator, fit it 90 deg to radiator and the hysteresis (temperature swing) gets silly, and fit the thermostat to an outside wall and it is cooled by the wall, in mothers house used a free standing thermostat at one point.

    However Hive has a card up its sleeve, it can link the the TRV head, once linked the TRV sends a "call for heat" signal to the wall thermostat, so the Hive wall thermostat is set to low side, and the TRV heads control the room temperature. This works well as then the boilers own modulating software can control the boiler output, so even without opentherm Hive can modulate the boiler.

    So if using the TRV heads then where Hive is fitted does not really matter, so it can be fitted where you have all the terminals with easy assess like next to the boiler, there is no need to fit in original location, it does depend on boiler, some boilers produce a lot of RF interference which has been know to stop some wireless thermostats working, but not heard of problems with Hive.

    Mothers house I simply fitted electronic TRV heads, and a basic wall thermostat, and they worked each room ran at temperature set and with the schedule set, the down side was the make I selected has a very good built in anti-hysteresis software so 7 am turn from 16 C to 20 C and it got to 18 C fast, but then slowed down so not at 20 C until 11 am, so set at 7 am to 22 C then at 8 am to 20 C and they worked spot on.

    I brought the heads with me to new house, there was no wall thermostat at new house, and only two wires main house to boiler (oil) so needed to add control, selected Nest as it would control both water and heating and charge the internal battery with just two wires, and the energenie mihome TRV heads I already had were suppose to work with Nest, however then found Nest has withdrawn support. So the TRV heads and the wall thermostat are not connected, as it turned out, does not matter as being along the hall to each other, the time delay between radiator heating air around the radiator and that air reaching the thermostat is so long even the very good algorithms built into Nest can't work when it is between 4 doors at inner end of hall with stairs between radiator and thermostat, that is asking too much. Cure is morning heat up 0.5 deg every hour for first 3 hours, and let the programmable TRV heads control room temperature, that has been found to work.

    However the geofencing still messes up, the heating auto shuts off when leaving the house, but over shoots on return. Son also had a problem with earlier Nest, gen 2, mine gen 3 detects movement so will turn up even when guests only in the house (i.e. baby sitters) but his we had to phone him at work and ask him to turn up heat, maybe it was set wrong?

    The problem is until installed you don't get to know what it does, ours was turning on without asking, and turned out to be anti legionnaires software. I still think I got it right, fitting the electronic TRV heads first, and had in 2016 when started on mothers house Hive TRV heads were around likely I would have gone for Hive, but Hive only released their heads in 2019 so I did not have the option. As it is the expensive energenie mihome TRV heads do not work as well as the cheap eQ-3 heads for me, I did get the bluetooth version so can set with phone, but there is a huge difference in price, £15 to £45 and the non bluetooth is less than £10 each. So yes the energenie mihome TRV heads can be set to geofence same as Nest wall thermostat so it still will work, but main point is I don't, so really don't need geofencing, simple timed schedule is enough.

    So if I was in your place, in rooms occupied as soon as you arrive home I would fit Hive TRV heads, and in other rooms to reduce cost fit eQ-3 heads, see how they work for you, if still not good enough then add the Hive wall thermostat.
     
  9. Mike83

    Mike83 Screwfix Select

    What is your exact model of boiler.
    looks fine.
    I’m sure the low voltage connections are at the other end of the pcb
     
  10. Hi Mike

    Is the common linked to terminal 3 or 2?
    Which one do you put on terminal 2? I've got the same arrangement here
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2020
  11. Ollieelmo

    Ollieelmo New Member


    Put a link from the live into the common.
     
  12. Thanks! So nothing to terminal 2?
     

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