How to make multiple angled cuts on wood?!

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by CharlMil, Nov 1, 2021.

  1. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    Hi all, in desperate need of some help please!

    4x2 timbers making a corner...

    1st length sits plumb to the wall and needs a 45 mitre at the corner...

    The adjoing 4x2 will need a 45 mitre to meet the perpendicular 4x2 to mentioned above to create an internal mitre joint BUT this timber needs a 10 degree angle so that it sits plumb against the wall (almost like you'd cut an angle for a rafter to sit flush against the wall)

    I have a compound mitre saw and a mitre box if manual is better.. compound saw doesnt reach all the way through the 4x2 so it's a bit of a pain but I can't wrap my head around how to do this.. is it possible?

    Thanks
     
  2. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    I've just uploaded some pics..

    So I have a mitred piece already for demo which will be fixed to the wall..

    I then need this perpendicular piece which will create an internal mitre... But as per picture 3, it needs to be angled to allow it to sit flush against the wall too..
     

    Attached Files:

  3. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Is your 45 cut being made across the 4" width or the 2" depth? And does your saw have a bevel-cut function?
     
  4. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Forget that, just saw the pics. You'll need to put compound mitres on both ends of the joint otherwise the mitres won't line up. Place the first timber with the 4" face flat down on the bed of your saw. Set the bevel angle to 45 degrees and the mitre angle to 5 degrees. Repeat for the second piece with the timber running in the opposite direction.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
  5. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    So it will be 4" high and 2 inch" deep so as they are stood in the pictures.

    Saw has 45 left and 45 right on the table side and then the bevel only goes 45 to one side
     
  6. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Does your saw bevel to the left or the right? = Which way does the handle swing over?
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
  7. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    To the left.

    Please tell me how you calculated 5°

    Thank you
     
  8. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    To create a 10-degree angle on a mitre, each half of the cut needs to be half the overall final angle. So to create a 90-degree joint for example, you need to make 2 x opposing 45-degree mitre cuts. Your angle is 10 degrees, so 2 x opposing 5-degree cuts are needed. You see?

    So what you do is this - Make 100% sure your timber is sitting dead flat on the bed of the saw and is pushed up hard and square against the fence, otherwise your angles won't be accurate. If it's a long piece of timber, support the far end on anything you have knocking about to ensure that it's flat on the saw bed. Even better - get your glamorous, scantily-clad assistant to support it.

    To make the left-hand piece in pic 3;

    1 Set up the timber so that the end you're going to cut is positioned to the left of the blade. Set the left-hand bevel to 45 degrees.
    2 Set your mitre angle 5 degrees to the left (i.e. the cut line will be bottom right to top left as you look at it).
    3 Make the cut.

    Making the right-hand piece is also done exactly as above - except that your 5-degree mitre will now be set to the right (i.e. cut line will be bottom left to top right).

    Have a practise first on any offcuts you've got kicking about. It all sounds complex, but once you get your head round it and start thinking in 3D, it becomes easier. Hope it works out for you.
     
    Jord86 and exbg like this.
  9. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    You sir, are a legend!

    Thank you so much for taking the time to explain it to me; knowledge is key!

    And thank you even more for teaching me how to achieve my cuts!

    You've just made my day!
     
  10. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    You're most welcome. Let me know when you get it done.
    All the best.
     
    CharlMil likes this.
  11. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member


    Oooh I did just want to ask, will the 5° bevel On the left piece of wood allow it to sit flush against the wall still?
     
  12. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    The method described above will give you exactly the result that your drawing shows - don't get confused by the fact that it's been made up using two separate 5-degree cuts. The overall angle of the 'lean' will be 10 degrees as pictured, so everything should sit fine. As I said, it's worth practising on some scrap first.

    One other tip = when you've done your successful cuts, glue the ends of the joint together with mitre adhesive (link below to a decent budget-priced one) to give a tight, seamless joint - this is essentially a 2-pack cyanoacrylate superglue consisting of a bottle of adhesive, plus an aerosol can containing an activator. Spray one half of the joint with the activator, and give it a minute to dry. Apply a decent spread of adhesive to the other half, bring the two halves together, and hold firmly for 10 seconds. Hey Presto = a joint tighter than a camel's bottom in a Saharan sandstorm. You only have a few seconds to line the pieces up though before it sets rock solid ......

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-mitre-adhesive-200ml/41795#_=p
     
    CharlMil likes this.
  13. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    Brilliant thank you!

    Will the glue be strong enough to replace my initial plan of using screws?
     
  14. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Depends on what you're doing with the timber. If this is going to be a decorative chunky picture frame - then yes, along with some pins as belt & braces to reinforce the mitre .

    If it's structural (framing or studwork) - then definitely not. You'll need screws which are at least 5mm x 70mm.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2021
    CharlMil likes this.
  15. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    Thank you, that answers everything!

    Thanks again for everything! I'll be in touch once done or if I need more help haha!
     
  16. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Good lad. It's always nice to get feedback on a successful outcome.
     
  17. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member


    So I have an issue...

    My chop saw is only going 3/4 of the way through the wood...
     
  18. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    Also, say the mitre I want isn't exactly 90°, does the same method apply? Half the angle and set that on the bevel?
     
  19. CharlMil

    CharlMil Member

    The bevel setting only goes to 45°, so how do I do any angle wider than a 90°?
     
  20. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    That may be the saws limit if you're cutting 4x2 on edge. Finish the cut with a 10tpi handsaw or turn the piece upside down and cut through the remainder.

    Yes but as a novice you'd be better off marking the angle on the workpiece then swing the saw table to meet the cutline, as if you start measuring angles then you need to be aware that the markings on a mitre saw table are the reciprocal angles due to the blade cutting at 90 degrees to the workpiece.

    Pack the piece you wish to cut out with a packer or tapering wedge.
     

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