How to measure and build a new staircase...

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Halfaudio, Sep 28, 2020.

  1. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    This is not glued together yet.
    It would be smarter to glue them together and then draw on it...
    I need to wait for my new jigsaw and clamps now, but I will cut out the next pieces.
    Do you have the middle piece drawn or not yet?




    After handling the pine I realised that it is going to be way to soft. My misses wants to put carpet on and I think I will have to agree with her even though it wasn't something we had in mind. Nevertheless it is going to be one strong staircase when i will manage to tackle it..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    Yes it is worth gluing up first, else the lines might not marry up and will have to be redrawn.
    Router out the housing before cutting the shape.
    And yes the top of the curve needs to be perpendicular to the end cut.
    I have not drawn the back wall string yet but will try and get it up in the next few hours.
    I will also do a quick guide on the mortice and tenon used to join the stringers together as this will make a difference as to where the top of the stringers need to be horizontal by.
     
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  3. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    To help with the top of the stringer without having to use more boards, you can cheat a bit at the bottom as this will not be seen,as long as there is enough on the ground to carry the load and to hold the wedges in the housing.

    Stringer cutting .jpg
     
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  4. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio
    Another quick vid on the stringer mortice and tenon.

     
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  5. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    An explanation of sorts on the dims for the wall stringer.




    The dims themselves.

    3 - 10 wall string dims.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Halfaudio likes this.
  6. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    @SoManyUserNames
    It did make a lot of sense actually.

    It's up to me now i will let u know when i am done with them.

    I have calculated everything and it seems like i have enough boards, my shop is closed so if not i am in trouble heh..
     
  7. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    @SoManyUserNames
    Question. Which one of these is the right one?
    [​IMG]
    Definitely need runny glue and one that doesn't go hard quickly.
    Evo moisture resistant glue is very thick and not runny and hardens quickly.
    Evo normal wood glue meant for inside is a lot more runny but hardens still a bit too quick..

    How do i go about wonky boards?
    I glued them like this.
    (
    )
    (

    If that makes some sense, probably not I just have a weird mind...

    I wish i had wood planer would make this so much easier... One of the boards were a 1,5mm thicker I had to play around with it...
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Number three I believe, you are correct about the cupped board orientation, and for the glue either PVA or look at Titebond II as these both give a reasonable working time. I used to work in a joinery for a little while when I was younger and more clueless than I am now and they used to glue and cramp boards up for the strings with expanding Polyurethane glue and nothing else, I think I mentioned it earlier in the thread that once the strings are routed out and all fitted together on site they can never separate as the treads, risers and wedges hold it all together.
     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  9. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    @Jord86
    Doesn't the Polyurethane glue expand? It is foam like glue I was looking at the Soudal pro p45 when you mentioned it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2021
  10. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Yes it does, messy to clean up but good for fast acting/curing.
     
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  11. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    I have set the stairs out for the second option, this will allow you to build the main flight on the floor and push the "wings" into the glued up section.

    Different thickness boards. using the biscuit jointer from the tread side to keep these faces flat, the side against the wall will not matter. the main mid section between newels will be out of a single board, this will just leave two small bits for the upper and lower newel stringers, try to match these to as close as you can or cut the pieces out of one board to ensure same size.

    Glueing up looks good, clamps alternate from side to side and flat board to keep them against. may need to put paper or something between stringer parts and straight bit of 4X2 just to stop them sticking together while the glue dries. Actually just spotted plastic gloves in your pics, guess this will work.

    I still prefer PVA use a small paint brush to spread the glue, glueing both mating faces in the biscuit holes and around the biscuits. you should have a good 20 minutes to work with the glue unless you are in a hot room in which case you could be down to about 5 minutes.

    Guess I had better draw all the stringers/newel posts up and show mortice and tenons. In loon mode but will try and get these done by tomorrow evening to keep you occupied over the weekend.
     
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  12. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Jord86
    My son was here the other day when I was reading one of your messages, I now know who Yoda is. Maybe I should get T.V. someday!!
     
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  13. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select


    I thought option three as he would fit top section first and prop, offer main flight into it and secure, then likewise with the bottom section, build down from the top etc, my mistake. You're only 44years too late mate, Star Wars came out in '77, I was a twinkle in my fathers eye then! You really aren't missing anything by not having a TV, in fact I respect and envy you for admitting that, I think we'd all be better off without all the misery and nonsense that passes for entertainment today, irrelevant of Covid at the moment.

    I wasn't insinuating you resembled a shrivelled, robe wearing green scrotum though, you do know that don't you? ;)
     
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  14. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    To be honest i haven't really seen the Star wars i did watch the Mandalorean series there i learned about master Yoda... I thought i was bad, but looks like @SoManyUserNames has missed a few good things on tv in his lifetime :D
     
  15. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    K just had to google him/it, My son didn't give a description but actually not a bad resemblance.
     
  16. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Ah! but better to have missed a few good things on t.v. rather than life. Not that I would know as I haven't tried life with T.V.
     
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  17. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    I will have to agree with that! I wish I could live with out YouTube, but saying that I mainly use it for music.
     
  18. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    @SoManyUserNames
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It was a hard to make such a long straight line as the router jig is not as long...
    [​IMG]
    I feel like I still didn't quite deliver the expected result at the top there since I will have to cut a bit off there won't be enough of straight bit...
    I wasn't sure how to end the the piece when I routed the rise and going so I just went in further so I have extra space to work on the back...
    How do I go from here?
    Should I take off 32.00 from left side but add 12.00 for the lip to click together? I was planning to do it as wide as the router bit I am using.
    I am a bit stuck honestly... I am probably having a fart moment..

    Ahh and i was wondering if the jig is not fully touching the work piece is it ok if I just screw it down in key points?
     
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  19. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Member

    @SoManyUserNames
    Not to worry i had a fart moment...
    Just need to step back and pretend that it is not your project...

    Real questions.
    About the jig if it doesn't fully touch the work piece.

    How deep should i make the rebate to stick them stringers together, 12.00 as the rest?

    How do i make the routing easier for winder going otherwise it is necessary to move the piece 2 times, every time..

    And so i can just complain, my router guide bush is not wanting to align perfectly... There, feeling better already..
     
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  20. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Over all, looking good, I am just working on the tenons and the newel posts, will have to check previous posts to see if I have done all the stringers.
     

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