How to measure and build a new staircase...

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Halfaudio, Sep 28, 2020.

  1. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Not many go to the lengths you have already, with more to come so it's horses for courses mate.
     
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  2. Shytot

    Shytot Active Member

    Good thread this . SMUN what’s your website called ?
     
  3. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Thank you, not sure I can mention it on here but it is on my profile.
     
  4. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    Without a doubt.
    @SoManyUserNames
    [​IMG]
    I should have paid more attention to these little details from the beginning..
    I have a serious question. Can the total size from one stringer end to other end can be reduced from 982.00 to 960.00?
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2020
  5. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    [​IMG]
    The brown line represents the final newel (half) and the red line is the stringer, obviously just lower.I had a quick drawing there, so you get a more clear idea.
    It would fit rather nicely upstairs with no gaps and downstairs the staircase first tread would end flush with the wall by the door opening.
     
  6. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    The walls are good, always better when the opening is wider than the space it will push back to, every mm will count when fitting.


    Some of these little details get missed by professionals, you have picked up on them before you have cut your first piece of wood, so not a problem.

    Something more like this? for stringer face to stringer face dims.

    To make this difference I have simply bought the top string and rear wall string in 22mm towards the well strings, I have then moved the bottom wall string out by the same 22mm in order to keep the back wall string the length required. this has changed the central walk line by a few mm but still legal so all good.

    stair rod 1a.jpg
     
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  7. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

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  8. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    That looks perfect! I think you have squeezed the absolute maximum out of it and there is nothing to change there i think.
    I was feeling artistic today ...
    This is the first floor look the orange awfully drawn step is the step 13 with the newel.
    Balusters and half newel will finish off the staircase but you don't need to put that in the measurements or the drawing.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2020
  9. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Nice one, I will get the other dim's over for the rods and draw up the full flight.
     
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  10. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Hi Half
    Quick catch up, have you had a chance to look at the rod yet? do you want more dims or did you sus Rhino?
    I have started building the 3d model to guide you through and give you all the dims you will need but on the road tomorrow so will be Wednesday before I can complete it.
     

    Attached Files:

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  11. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    Wow that looks nice, how wide the stringers will need to be on straing flight? Most likely will be more questions when i will be making it...
    Sorry i don't follow you what do you mean with rods?
     
  12. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    A rod is a full size drawing, this is for the corners, so you can lay the tread material onto the rod and transfer the dimensions onto the tread material for cutting, best drawn with different colour pens for nosing line, riser line, housing lines and stringer faces. on the run this morning, will explain more later.
     
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  13. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    Ahh, no i didn't draw it yet.
    I need to make more space in my spare room, gluing, cutting and routing in my living room is not an option and outside the weather is horrible.
    Made couple of shelves for storage and organiser boxes now it looks more tidy, should have done it long time ago..
    And i will need to make 2 or 3 sawhorses so i don't have to work on a floor.
     
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  14. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Saw horses will be, working on the floor can be dangerous, gave one of my chaps work benches, to lazy to set them up, lost his balance while doing a cut on a mitre saw and pulled the blade into his knee. Making sure you have clear workspace, floors and full control of your machinery is imperative. Slow and careful saves time and leads to a better job.
    Glad you are busy gives me a day or so to get ahead of you.
     
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  15. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    Brrr nasty stuff, no rush here at the moment, tomorrow some gas work will be going on here on the street not sure why, but they said that the pipes need to be checked and replaced if necessary that means digging up garden... I can't even get in to my garden because the whole street is a mess :confused:
     
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  16. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    @SoManyUserNames
    Hi Usernames,been a few busy days, have you had time to finish it? I made the horses i think they are wild and strong had to call cowboys to check them out:D wood has been moved again from my living room to the spare room and cleared the space to draw winders. The only thing really i need now is a better router current router is small parkside 1200w can't fit ½" bits... i was looking at Trend T7ek 2100w would it be more appropriate for the job? And couple of clamps Tbar sash clamps (long)


    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  17. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Hitachi or Hikoki do a half inch router that is cheaper than the other similar competitors whilst the Dewalt 625 is probably the best out there being as it's based on an old Elu design which were the dogs goolies but it's more expensive if you'll only be using a router as a one off. Leave Trend alone as their routers are largely cack compared to other brands.
     
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  18. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member


    Hi Half, They look like cart horses! proper working horse.

    Just been updating your stair design.

    visual 1sc.jpg

    Not really, this is the one I have to get out for tomorrow morning.
    I haven't had the chance to do yours yet but will get the rods printed off for you in the morning, which will keep you busy for an hour or two while I get the next stage up and ready to get ahead of you again.

    As for routers, definetly need one with 1/2" collet, as for makes etc. as Jord said Elu was the go to brand before being bought out, messed up and re branded as Dewalt. The Americans say the same about Dewalt; as they can only get Elu now. Yep you guessed it bought out, messed up, rebranded. not 100% sure but that is the rumour from both sides of the pond, anyway I digress.
    I would listen to Jord on this one as I have no idea about other makes, I have festool and Wadkin but very expensive for occasional use.
     
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  19. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Just a quick thought, if you do get a bigger router it is likely to come with diferent size collets if you haven't used one before make sure to clip the collet into the locking nut properly or else you will have fun swapping the bits over.
     
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  20. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    STAGE 2 - The rod - Diagram 1 - Rod parts.

    So here we go, crayons at the ready.
    I will start adding the title to each stage at the top of any relevant posts to make them easier to find.

    Actually fine tip biros are the best for this, 4 different colours would be ideal, 2 will do as long as the can draw dotted and solid lines.

    Stage 1. Draw the plans.
    Stage 2. drawing the rods.


    I have attached an explanation of the different lines on the rod if you have 4 colour pens, easy enough if you don't then use one colour for the face of the riser and stringer, use the same colour but dotted to show the hidden detail eg. riser thickness and rebate depth, use the other colour to show the tread nosing.

    This should separate things out nicely so as not to get confused when laying the treads on the rod for marking out.

    I will do these images on a white background for printing purposes.

    rod parts.jpg
     
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