How to measure and build a new staircase...

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Halfaudio, Sep 28, 2020.

  1. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Sorry only just picked this one up, Yes it is worth doing the jig first. I know it's a bit late but I will get up some instructions in the morning. My Fault, I made a mistake yesterday and it took me all day to correct it and that was just drawing some stairs and I snuck out to ride around the countryside for a few hours today.
     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  2. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    K this has taken me a while, not great but hopefully enough to get you going, I have not mentioned on the video that the tread cut out needs to extend far enough to have the rebate or housing clear the bottom of the stringer, Once you have the jig made it is a matter of testing it on a piece of scrap material to make sure the nosing goes home nicely when the riser face hits home.

     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  3. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    @SoManyUserNames
    That was an excellent guidance thank you!

    Can you check if it looks right, before i cut it out?
    Can i use the actual tread and copy the nosing on the board like i did there and add the offset around it?
    Is 9x9mm enough for the rebate in the tread?
    I have 9 mm offset.
    I used 5 degrees for the wedges on both sides.
    I plan to use router for the nosing but i risk messing up so i might finish it off with sandpaper.

    I should make it clear that the 20,3+9mm on the right side is the length and rebate.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio
    That looks spot on, obviously just extend each of the cut outs to make sure you router through the bottom edge of the stringer.
    Marking the nosing the way you have is perfect, doing the jig first means you can try the tread into place and then mark where the riser goes once you have a sample tread routed out, much easier than trying to get the jig to fit the rebate line in the tread.

    If you have one? hunt out a 6 - 9 mm gouge if you don't a 6mm chisel will do, once you have routed the tread out just over cut the nosing by 0mm at the surface to about .5mm in the bottom of the rebate, almost as if you had run a very shallow dovetail cutter around the curved part of the nosing, this will allow a little bit of squash just to help close the nosing up tight.

    Guess I best get on with how to mark the stringers and the dim's you need.
     
    Halfaudio and Dam0n like this.
  5. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    Are you all jigged up?

    Here is the first part of testing the jig, I will get the second part up in the morning.

    Marking the tread positions.



    1. Place the margin piece on the top of the stringer and set the pitch board with the going closest to the end of the board and the hypoternuse against the marging piece.

    2. Draw along the rise and going of the pitch board.

    3. Remove the pitch board and margin piece and extend the going lines to the edges of the stringer. When this is the start of the flight this will be your FFL (finish floor line)

    4. With a set square mark from the riser and going interesect point to the bottom edge of the stringer.

    5. Measure the distance of the hypoternuse along the stringer and carry that mark back up till it is the same length or longer than the one you have just marked from.

    6. Measuring from the same starting point measure up 2 X the hypoternuse length and draw the line from the bottom of the stringer up towards the top again as previous.



    1. Keep doing this for as many striaght flyers or treads as you need, once you get to the kites a change is required, I will go through this later for now just do two treads for testing the jig.
    2. Put the margin piece and pitch board back on with the apex of the pitch board at the next hypoternuse mark and draw round it, slide to next mark and repeat.

    I have attached this guide without the pics in pdf to print out.

    1 FFL position.jpg 2 draw around.jpg 3 extend ffl.jpg 4 mark to edge.jpg 5 - 6 repeat tread marks.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    Halfaudio and Jord86 like this.
  6. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Opps forgot the last image.

    7 mark each tread.jpg
     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  7. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    Matching string marking.



    When marking the matching stringer, rather than mark each one by use of a tape, butt the two stringers together and transfer the marks from one to the other. This will minimise any error and help stop the treads from being twisted.

    Once the marks have been transferred, use a square to carry these marks up far enough to use the margin piece and pitch board as before.


    8 transferring marks to matching string.jpg
     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  8. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    Tread outline.

    This shows the position the treads are going to end up in, in relation to the pitch board markings.

    9 tread outline.jpg
     
  9. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    To set the jig in place.



    1. Mark jig offset - from the going and riser lines, this is the distance from collet to router bit as measured for making the jig.

    2. Set the jig over the going and riser offset marks and fix the jig into place, screws may be used below the tread and riser cut lines.

    3. Set router to 12mm cutting depth and rebate the first one and repeat.

    10 mark jig offset.jpg 11 set jig over offset marks.jpg
     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  10. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    Once you have the rebates cut out, stand one of the treads or an offcut of one into place and then mark the riser rebate postion onto it, now you can set up the router for rebating the bottom of the treads.

    Once a small set up is run with the rebate in it, make a small sample of the riser with tongue and try it all into place.

    K this should keep you busy for 10 minutes while I draw up the stringer rebate positions.

    12 Mark rebate position .jpg
     
  11. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    @SoManyUserNames Sorry, yes I got the jig ready, but I haven't tested it yet.
    I will try it out tomorrow on a spare piece
    Before i start routing anything do I need to glue up the stringers for the winders?
    [​IMG]
    Off topic : I wanted to send you a pm, but couldn't find how. My young building inspector suddenly passed away of what looks very much like vet overdose before surgery. Been out of shape for the past day or two, it was the youngest ones present. Hi had a really unique character, the one that you can't believe how smart hi is, plays with toys you give him, sneaks up to sleep in your bed, always is around you, comes to wake you and the kids up and feels like hi is just like you. I will stop slacking off and carry on tomorrow.
     
  12. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    I'm very sorry to read that and sorry for you, animal or not they are a beloved member of the family.
     
  13. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    Thx, they sure are.
     
  14. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Got two myself, one eight years old and one six month old kitten acquired since August. You have my sympathy.
     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  15. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    I too am sorry to hear that, Pets can be very close freinds, I hope the kids are o.k.
    Work at your own speed, I just wanted to get ahead as I know I have a busy week ahead.
    I do not know if you can pm on here.
    You can get the test one done, while I draw up the stringer sizes you need.
    My sympathies to you and your familly.
     
    Halfaudio likes this.
  16. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    @Jord86
    @SoManyUserNames
    Cheers lads.
    The cat was exactly 1 year old white Scottish fold with normal ears, turns out they are very intelligent cats. We have another cat, but hi is just a typical sleepy cat..
    Youngest one has trouble waking up, since his friend is not waking him up and waiting for him but we shall take his mind of with Christmas tree.

    I was tidying up the house making the space for next stage.
    I shall ''sample'' the jig today, after we set up the Christmas tree.
     
    Jord86 and SoManyUserNames like this.
  17. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    Ok pictures.
    I am still practicing my hand on this.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is going to be an issue, so I had to make infill pieces to avoid the rounding over.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is just a practice wood.
    I will try to route one more time with the infills and then I can mark the rebate for treads.
     
  18. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    @SoManyUserNames
    It was starting to go so well..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Obviously things are not adding up question, how to check where ?
    tread is 281.00 wide, it should have been 278.00 but I left the extra just in case.
    From riser face to riser face 267.00 Should have been 251.00
    How so? I am confused, I made the the pitch board really precise.

    Nosing is correct, should I leave the nosing tight? I have to gently hammer it in not much, but there is just slight resistance.
     
  19. Halfaudio

    Halfaudio Active Member

    No worries I think I see where it is.
    Pitch board, the going should be 251.00 Am I right?
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2020
  20. SoManyUserNames

    SoManyUserNames Active Member

    @Halfaudio

    You are doing great, you are problem solving most of this yourself.

    tread is 281.00 wide, it should have been 278.00 but I left the extra just in case. - Spot on.
    From riser face to riser face 267.00 Should have been 251.00. - Correct again, 251.4 mm is the going, worth working to 251.5 those .5mm add up on a staircase.
    Nosing is correct, should I leave the nosing tight? I have to gently hammer it in not much, but there is just slight resistance. - Perfect, this is just how you want it.
    Pitch board, the going should be 251.00 Am I right? - Correct The last dim's for the pitch board are G 251.4 R 203 Pitch 323.2 I have attached Pdf, not sure if it will print due to printer boarders.
     

    Attached Files:

    Halfaudio likes this.

Share This Page