I think I may have botched cabinet cutout for sink

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by kiteboy, Nov 20, 2018.

  1. kiteboy

    kiteboy Member

    Hi all

    Been slowly getting the cabinets and plumbing in place for kitchen island which is from Howdens

    Decided to cut a Howdens 1000mm wide base cabinet so I could figure out where the undermount sink sits roughly so I can then get the pipes and wastes in or arround the right position......but think Ive gone too close to the front edge

    Ive basically gone about halfway into that vertical support bar in the front

    Im now thinking of getting a new cabinet from Howdens and starting again - was rushing as my last day off today but its gonna cost!

    I assume I should have cut out behind the support bar - but then I wasnt sure how much of the back to cut out too as again I didnt want to cut all the way through the back thicker panel support

    While Im here - we are planning on getting 30mm quartz which we havnt bought yet - it says in the Howdens install book that there should be support brackets for quartz and marble

    Should I get these too??? What cabinets do they go in - all of em??? Or just the wide ones like the 1000mm cab

    Thanks all for any advice - I knew I shouldnt have rushed it
  2. nigel willson

    nigel willson Well-Known Member

    Pictures paint A thousand works
  3. Allsorts

    Allsorts Well-Known Member

    Fair chance you'll be ok as that bar is in compression, so will still be very strong even if only half the thickness near the top, but a picture would really help.
  4. kiteboy

    kiteboy Member

    Heres a few [​IMG]


  5. kiteboy

    kiteboy Member

    Proper cocked it up not sure - that bar is still strong ......can take my weight

    What is the best method for installing these undermounts - Ive read you put a piece of ply in the cabinet first and then use that for your template - I take it then that would not go as close as I have done to the edge ----- muppet

    Gutted - but hey its a learning process! Im currently thinking of getting another cabinet and then doing as above really - I understand a bit better now - what epoxy or silicone is best for fixing too??
  6. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    The Undermounted sink needs to be recessed into both the front and back rails to the thickness of the sink flange, a router set to the correct depth will do the job. It's a pity you have cut as much as you have out of the back rail because it gives less support at the back than it really should. You only needed to cut out enough so the overflows didn't come into contact with the rear panel. As it stands at the moment, the only rear support you have is on each corner, one of which is already bent. You could get around that with a piece of 9mm MDF screwed onto the front of the back rail and then just cut out for the overflows. You do need to cut a large access in the back as well, because you won't be able to either fit or connect the taps unless you do.
  7. metrokitchens

    metrokitchens Well-Known Member

    Get the worktop peeps to clamp & glue the sink to the underside of the top. It'll be fine.
    You have a lot of accurate work to undertake there. Slow and steady. The unit will be fine once the worktop is fitted. Consider your tap access for fitting once the tops are on or insist the worktop people fit the tap.
  8. kiteboy

    kiteboy Member

    Thanks- will probably start again - shouldnt have rushed - I see - need a router too! I saw that on the instructions

    Was wondering about the taps aswell - so is space made for the pipe through the thinner panel rather than the thicker stuff at the back??

    Will get a bit of ply next time too and read the instructions!
  9. Iain Chalmers

    Iain Chalmers New Member

    The cabinet is plenty strong enough to take the weight of the sink and the worktop. How are you planning to fit the sink on top of the worktop or underneath? fitting on top would solve your issue .
    If underneath you need to support the back right corner for sure as it is already flexing, as suggested add a marine ply board at the back and cut as needed.

    Silicone is plenty strong for fixing but will break down over time, a long time mind and by that time you will be paid and can wash your hands of it !! Yeah haw!!!

    You should never rush and you ask first and learn before trying something new amigo as it only makes you look bad to your client.
    Bodge job is never the result you are after...hey but we all learn along the way and you sure won't forget this in a hurry i'm guessing...
    good luck
  10. HarDeBloodyHarHar

    HarDeBloodyHarHar Active Member

    You could get a new bit of conti board to replace that broken one which looks split right out to the edge!
  11. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member


    Not once in 30 years of fitting kitchens have i ever come across any solid surfacing company that would even consider gluing a sink to the underside of a worktop before installation (unless it was Acrylic of course). Nor have i ever come across one that would fit a tap. The fitters are there to fit the tops, nothing else other than upstand maybe. They defo will not start cutting out access points for fitting taps.

    OP, deal with supporting the back of the sink. Cut your access so that you can fit the tap and connect it. Route the front and back to recess the sink so that it is flush with the top of the cab..............then leave the rest to the worktop peeps.
  12. HarDeBloodyHarHar

    HarDeBloodyHarHar Active Member

    I would say this is DIY(last day off today)
    Iain Chalmers likes this.
  13. kiteboy

    kiteboy Member

    Thanks all - yeh that conti board idea might be a solution for the front section and yes the back needs more support too - I will have a go and this time take my time - yeh its DIY too - the rest of the kitchen is pretty much fixed - just the island needs sorting before we can get the worktop people in
  14. Gurammu

    Gurammu New Member

    It seems to me that this is a good idea.

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