Ikea Wood Worktops Join

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by marc1977, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. marc1977

    marc1977 Member

    Hi,

    I am fitting Ikea solid wood worktops this weekend. They have a very slight bevel on the edge but not much. anyone know it its best to just butt join them or should i do a proper worktop mitre?

    If mitre is the option I dont have a router or jig. happy to but one although i wonder if its really a diy job?

    Cheers
     
  2. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    A mitre joint is the way to go, unless you want the eye sore of a council house joiner.

    As a one off, I'd suggest you find someone local who can do this for you. You'd need a router, jig, knowhow and some patience to do a decent job yourself.
     
  3. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Well-Known Member



    look at it several times....
    RS
     
  4. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    It would take me the best part of the day watching this repeatedly to understand 100% exactly how to do it properly.
     
  5. retiredsparks

    retiredsparks Well-Known Member

    First time ..bit black art...second and third..it just becomes obvious...
    You would have no probs...
    Rs
     
  6. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    Depending on the style of the wooden worktops, doesn’t a mitred joint look a bit weird, if say worktop is made up of timber blocks ?

    I’ve got Iroko tops (made of blocks, don’t know technical term) and prior to fitting, we looked at both mitred and butt jointed as fitting option

    So pleased we went ‘butt’

    Mitred seems to make the join look soooooo long and matching grain pattern doesn’t always work

    A good fitter and butt jointed needs no ‘council house joiners’ - why would you ?
     
  7. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    A mitred joint from front edge to back corner does look horrendous yes. A Masons mitre done with a router and jig however, looks perfectly fine and is only slightly different to look at than a butt joint. Even more so if the jig is set to a 10mm mitre.
     
    CGN likes this.
  8. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    Ah ha yep, fair play kitfit....

    Just wondered when op said mitred ....

    Surely not a 1st time job for a diy’er is it - no offence as don’t know the chaps level of woodworking skills

    We all have to start new sometime but on brand new timber worktops ........ :eek: Unless uv got plenty of scrap to practice on ?
     
  9. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    Well, i wouldn't want to tackle a solid wood worktop joint if it was my first time. Even more so when the OP dosn't have a router or a jig.....................my guess is the OP has never used a router either. Solid oak, Iroko and Beech have to be treated with respect when using a router. You can't cut as deep and fast as you would with a Laminate top, or Acrylic for that matter.
    If i was the OP i would take Dr Bodgit's advice a get someone local to do it.
     
    Astramax likes this.
  10. Longy75

    Longy75 Member

    By the time you've bought a router, jig and anything else you might need just for this one job it'd prob work out the same as getting someone in to do the cuts, I'm all for having a go at stuff but when it's the finished job you'll be looking at everyday sometimes it pays to call in the professionals
     
    Jord86 and Astramax like this.
  11. longboat

    longboat Well-Known Member

    He basically makes it look more complicated than it basically is.

    Basically.
     
  12. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Well-Known Member

    He does to be honest, he also should have marked the male joint from underneath. The worst thing though is the finished joint itself.............................it looked terrible in my mind. No way could i ever even think of leaving a fit with a joint that bad.
     
    longboat likes this.
  13. longboat

    longboat Well-Known Member

    I was cringing as soon as he made the first cut. The distinctive hight frequency chatter a dull bit emits was made even worse when he just carried on regardless. The join did indeed look pants, and no wonder.
    He said the worktop measured 615, more likely it was 616, but anyway, I'm sure the jig he used has a marker slot for that exact size, so why all the faffing about with the set square on the face of the female cut when checking the two tops for alignment?
    Pencil marks everywhere?
    Granted, it was a 'how to' exercise. I'd love to witness his methods when tackling a gloss black top and his pencil won't work.
     
  14. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Agree mate, 10mm masons mitre def way to go.
     
  15. Jimmycloutnail

    Jimmycloutnail Active Member

    Most customers I've ever done a full miter for actually love it as the butchers block runs Through and if done well and sanded correctly you shouldnt see a join, I personally would always try to butt joint solid wood tops as they are prone to movement and a masons miter is most susceptible to opening up
     
  16. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    Yep...can't stand animals. There was this one time when I fed goldfish to my Rottweiler...
     
    WillyEckerslike likes this.
  17. CGN

    CGN Well-Known Member

    That's most nights...i always over do it :)
     

Share This Page