Installing B&Q bath

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Danny32, Sep 15, 2021.

  1. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    Hi
    I need to install an AS Sandringham acrylic bath in between two walls.
    https://www.diy.com/departments/arm...r-straight-bath-l-1685mm-w-695mm/37076_BQ.prd

    Would just following the installation booklet be sufficient? I really need this bath in ASAP as I’ve no second bathroom.
    Plumber is expensive so doing it myself.

    The electric shower is on the LH wall with mains pipework renewed.
    The bath as per the instructions, is secured to the wall with two L brackets and rests on five adjustable feet. These have holes in for screwing to the floor but not sure how I’d get at them with bath in place.
    There’s no wall fixings for each end so it would squeeze in between the walls and be held in place by the brackets and feet.
    Just wondering if anybody has put one of these baths in.
    Any help appreciated.
     

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  2. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Like you, I’m diy so not installed hundreds of baths…… but a few, and again, as yourself, current bath is acrylic, been in a good few years, family house, kids, well used, all rock solid

    Not looked at your bath or link above but nothing specific to any bath, just general good practice when installing and forget simply using the ‘tin foil’ metal brackets supplied

    Batten walls on three sides, plug and screw battens to walls, something like roofing / tile batten is perfect and cheap enough - 25x50 is a nice chunky size

    So, assemble bath with legs, slide into position, level bath and set at correct height (this may be governed by a bath panel and/or flooring), pencil line under bath edge wherever you can reach

    Slacken off feet
    Out with bath, join up pencil lines and check again all level

    Secure battens to walls (fixings will depend on wall type)

    Now add plenty of silicone to tops of battens and just above onto wall, where edges of bath meets wall

    Two people now, you want to lift bath up and into space and drop down onto battens, not simply slide it across battens as your gonna scrape off all that lovely sili

    Push down onto bath to bed into sili, clear away any excess that’s forced above bath edge

    Now,,,,, you can add those fantastic brackets as supplied, again, limited where you can reach but here and there is fine as an added measure

    Wind down feet so tight against floor, screws through the feet don’t perform a huge task as far as I’m aware and yes, they’re tricky to reach but should be able to get 25mm screw in each leg using a short stubby / ratchet screwdriver - don’t want any longer in case of pipes / cables under floorboards and, again, you don’t need huge screws through the legs

    Some peeps also recommend placing a sturdy timber running across the width of the bath and under the legs, on top of the floorboards. This helps to even out the weight instead of being focused on small area of each leg

    With the batten method above and lightness of acrylic bath, not sure this is required

    Can then silicone the gap between edge of bath and wall, and bring silicone level to top edge of bath

    This forms a solid barrier against any water and stops anything running down behind bath and causing damage

    Then ready for your wall finish

    That’s my method
    Other may agree / add / disagree / :)

    Good luck and enjoy
     
  3. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    Thanks for the reply.
    Battens a good idea then to rest bath edges on. I suppose bath might flex without them but it is rigid.
    Not sure why it’s not mentioned in the installation booklet.

    Then there’s attaching the services. I’ve had the bath turned around so taps are at shower end. Means that the waste pipe will run under the bath or maybe along side if room behind the panel.
    I’ll use flexi hose with isolation valves for hot and cold and adapt the solvent weld waste pipe with an angle adapter.
     
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  4. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    I am a plumber and that’s an excellent thorough answer from DiyDave:)
     
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  5. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    Use seperate isolation valves and flexi hoses if u can, the ones on the flexis are normally poor quality and will leak in future when u turn them. I would recommend paying a bit extra and getting some decent 22mm lever valves (depending on pipe size being that) you will thank me in future should u ever need to turn them off. The cheaper ones seize up and leak regularly upon using them.
     

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  6. Tricky Dicky

    Tricky Dicky Active Member

    I concur that DIYDave is spot on. I also would recommend placing a sturdy timber running across the width of the bath and under the legs, to spread the load over a greater distance. Battens around 3 sides is spot on, and was a tip given to be by a site foreman constructing new builds, he says they NEVER had problems with bath movement.
    I'm also keen DIY, having part built my existing house some 35 years ago. I did complete electrics (no part P in those days), also 2nd fit of woodwork, entire fitted kitchen, tiling walls & floors, fitted cupboards & wardrobes, painting inside & out, etc etc. Lived with in-laws for a year whilst house was completed. That's how the son of a coal miner now owns a 4 bedroomed detached house. Father & father in law helped with painting etc. I did have a GCE in woodwork!

    PS a year a so later my father & me built the conservatory, a Wickes special, £2500 from memory. It's still standing, and nearly a good as the day it was built. A few of the opening windows have misted up, 2 replaced this year, otherwise still original. Thanks dad, sadly passed away last year aged 95.

    IMG_1506.JPG
     
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  7. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    Wouldnt find any baths battoned around underneath on the big new build sites these days lol, be lucky if they used the angle brackets that come with them
     
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  8. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    Thanks.
    Cheaper ones being the type with a screw head for on/off?
    I was think of those as they’re small and space might be tight.
     
  9. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    Not all screw head ones are bad but Yeah the cheaper ones on the market really are rubbish.
     
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  10. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    Thanks.
    It’s a new, solid P5 chipboard subfloor so maybe do without them. There’s a bath panel too but not sure if battens under the legs would affect that.
    The old cast iron bath that I took out had them but that was 100kg on a dodgy floor.
     

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  11. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    Should be ok on the boards but it’s just an extra precaution. The height of the bath won’t be effected by wood under the legs as u would place the bath on the fixed battens with the legs wound up then wind them into place onto the wood. Be sure to make sure u set your bath height for the panel, not so important if it’s a wooden one with a plinth but the plastic panels can be a pig to cut and it weakens them.
     
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  12. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    Yes, that’s great. Should be able to crack on now.
    I think best to connect the flexi hose to the supply pipes first (using individual Swirl taps).
    Not sure what fittings I need for overflow, plug and waste connection. The old bath had an overflow that also worked the plug.
    Hoping that the holes cut are standard. The taps fit ok.

    The waste pipe will also need sorting before putting the bath in. Hopefully a low profile trap will fit.
     

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  13. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    Holes are standard, any bath/waste overflow kit will fit.
    Tighten the taps and waste onto the bath out of position. If I was you, purely for ease I would use flexis with pushfit ends, get the pipe to the correct area before putting the bath in, make the flexis on to the bath before lifting in, and then all u have to do is push the flexis on the pipe. (Make sure copper pipes are cut cleanly if u do this)
     
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  14. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select


    Standard practice yes, get all your supply and waste pipes finalised and have a 'dry run' before fitting bath to iron out any potential problems at this stage

    With plumbing fittings, whether using flexis, plastic, copper, there's always a fitting to get you from A-B in case of any misalignment issues and/or thread, connection methods

    Make sure you protect the surface of the bath during these works and subsequent decorating / tiling, etc
    Bath is probably covered with shrink wrap polythene but drop a wrench or a tile onto bath and this isn't gonna help to avert damage :eek:

    Use thick dust sheets, old blankets etc, and use gaffer or decent masking tape to stick into place, right along bath edges so all surfaces covered and protected from any (most) damage
    Even grit and dust can cause scratches to bath surface so protect before you even start
     
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  15. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    Thanks. I think most flexis have the same bore size.
    The cold supply is mains and the hot is gravity fed from nearby immersion tank.
    Pressure is good but just wondering if the standard flexi hose diameter would be ok here.
     
  16. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    I’m ok with the tap and flex pipe fitting.
    For the waste pipe connection, there’s a useful 92.5 degree adapter at SF which will give the necessary fall.
    What might take time is the trap and overflow connecting.
    Useful article here on different types.
    https://www.practicaldiy.com/plumbing/bath_waste/bath_wastes.php

    TBH I don’t really know what I need here. A list of suitable parts would be useful.
    Maybe quicker to get a plumber to do it.
     
  17. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    Flexi bore Should be ok, I couldnt say for certain tho obviously.
    For the bath waste and overflow it depends what u want. If u want an overflow that u spin to pop the plug up or just one with a standard plug and chain, or a click clack one where the plug is sprung and u press it to open/close it.
    I would get a mcalpine waste fitting whatever option u decide, more expensive but worth it for the extra quality
     
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  18. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

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  19. Danny32

    Danny32 Member

    Thanks. Quite like the spin type that lifts the plug. Old bath had it.
    Don’t mind chain plug if fitting is easier.
    I’ll have a look at options. Kind of learning as I go.

    I guess the plug/overflow unit is in one piece and would connect directly to the McAlpine waste fitting.
     
  20. pppmacca43

    pppmacca43 Super Member

    They are all similar to fit tbh, so in terms of ease not much different
     
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