Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Danny32, Sep 15, 2021.
That looks ideal. Thanks.
Assuming I’ll need something like these. One 22mm - 3/4” and one 15mm - 3/4”.
Not too sure though where the isolation valves go. Maybe fit them straight onto the two copper supplies.
Currently they’re capped with Speedfits so may need an olive for compression fitting.
What I would do(if I were you) is cut the coppers close to the floor, enough to get valves on. Then a short stub of copper and then use longer flexis that will take up the distance between the valve and the taps. Make the flexis on to the taps before you put the bath in for the last time and then make them onto the stubs of the pipe once the bath is in. I know I said use pushfit but I’ve looked at your photos and there should be loads of room to use compression and tighten them up well and plenty of room for seperate valves. I would also buy some LSX, and before you tighten up the compression fittings put the nut and olive on the pipe and smear a bit around the olives before tightening. Expensive for a little tube but better to do it once than have a weep and have to take apart again.
I think that’s the easiest way, if it were me I would hard pipe it all the way to the taps but this way there is only 3 compression joints for each tap.
I would also get a pack of top hat washers, these go between the underside of the bath/basin/sink and the nut, they help gets better fixing when u do up the tap and stop it spinning and sliding. They are suitable for 1/2” and 3/4” taps, u have to knock/cut a bit out the middle if using on 3/4” tho.
Was looking forward to fitting the pushfits. The JG Speedfit stop ends are brilliant and have been on the cut pipes ever since I started.
I think the push fit flexis use the same idea.
Understand though that compression or solder fittings are better. Both are pretty much permanent and can be a right hassle getting a compression fixing off/olive removal. Not that I’d need to I suppose.
Just wondering if a service/isolation valve like this would do instead of the lever type for more room?
Cut the pipes down a little and fit a short copper stubs as suggested.
Yeah but u aren’t really saving any room they are about the same size as lever valves. I’ve actually stopped using these ones from screwfix as we have a lot fitted at work and are finding they leak from the slot when used after they have been in a while
Nothing wrong with pushfit, u could even get longer push fit flexis to make it easier if u needed too
Thanks for the help.
I’ll follow Diydave’s step by step guide. I can get 2x1 softwood from my local timber yard although they don’t always seem to be cheap.
Three 2m lengths of 2x1 should do for 3 battens and cross supports under the five feet if needed.
I can position bath with panel in place and leave a small gap under it for flooring (Lino). A strip of wood can be used to make up any gap.
I can hopefully get flexis, top hats, lever valves, trap/plug/overflow and solvent weld pipe plus adapter in one visit to SF.
The Swirl taps have a rubber washer but I guess the top hats are a good idea also.
The McAlpine trap looks quite compact so I’m hoping there’s enough clearance under the bath for it.
Battens - go with roofing / tile batten
It’s rough sawn timber, not perfect but more than adequate. Works out cheap as comes in long lengths - 4.8s are common
If your taking it home by bicycle, just ask to borrow a saw and cut down on site
No need for softwood PAR, or similar - especially when you say your local ain’t cheap - but then nothing is at the moment
But of course, any timber will do for battens, just no need to go fancy !!
Top hat washers aren’t to seal it like a rubber washer they are to help the taps fix better and not spin and slide. They go under the bath.
Yes, got some. Timber yard had loads of it.
They cut it in half to go in the car.
Just starting this and was wondering which way round these legs go.
Maybe the angled side is to make room for a side panel batten if needed.
Any help appreciated.
I bought one of those. Nice bit of kit.
Just positioning it and putting the leg where it should be, it’s in the way of the waste pipe.
There’s enough thread on the plug insert to be able to lower the trap but I’m assuming it’s designed to thread in fully.
Otherwise a thick rubber spacer would need to be used to lower the trap to clear the bath leg.
Maybe once bath is in place at the right height, there’ll be sufficient fall on the pipe.
Yeah it threads in fully. I would spin it 90 degrees and use 90s/45s to get over it.
Thanks, good idea.
The centre foot also obstructs the waste pipe so a straight route is out.
Hopefully can sort it with some angle PVC.
Probably need to put bath in place temporarily to configure the pipes.
Just figuring out what’s best as it’s a first for me.
Certainly not a quick job but have got time to do it.
I see that the solvent weld pipe adapters come in packs of five and are conversion type or bend/coupler.
I’ll need one 90 degree conversion and a 45 degree bend and will have loads spare.
There are the push fit ones sold separately. Not sure if it matters that the pipe I bought is solvent weld.
Push fit pipe is slightly smaller diameter, so you’ll need to use solvent fittings with the pipe you’ve got.
Toolstation sell them singly
Bath fits in snug with no movement horizontally. Just had to chip away a bit of plaster fo it to sit at the right height.
The panel is a squeeze to get in between the two walls and can’t really reduce the plaster as it’s visible wall.
I have the wood for battens but for initial adjustment and positioning, it’s easier just adjusting the legs.
The L brackets, mastic and feet screwed to floor battens might be ok here.
Is there a question hidden away in there?
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