Installing cement-based tiling backer board

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by rogerk101, Jun 1, 2010.

  1. rogerk101

    rogerk101 Screwfix Select

    Hi
    I am creating a wet room in a very spall space. I plan to use 10mm thick stone tiles to line the showering area. Since this would have been too heavy for the old plaster, I removed all of it, and now have a clean, reasonably regular brick wall. It is too irregular to tile directly, so I plan to use a cement-based tile backer board.
    All the research I've seen suggests screwing wood battens onto the brick wall and then screwing the backer board to the battens. Problem is that this wastes scarce space.
    Can I dot and dab cement board to the old brick wall? If so, what product should I use?
    Alternatively, can I use one of the rapid foam grab adhesives (like insta stik) to 'glue' the tile backer board to the wall? If so, which product should I use?
    Regards and thanks in advance for your advice.
    Roger
     
  2. SrewcFix

    SrewcFix New Member

    This board is designed to be screwed onto batons with ceramic screws.
     
  3. imran_

    imran_ New Member

    You don't need a big cavity. Personally I'd use the cavity with some insulation (e.g. Airtec) to provide an additional layer to reduce condensation problems on the tiles.
     
  4. tic tic

    tic tic New Member

    stud the walls out,and board with a cement based board(will take the weight 45kg + per m2))of your tiles,just remember to stagger the boards and use the fiba tape to cover all the joints and corners.
     
  5. rogerk101

    rogerk101 Screwfix Select

    Thanks for the replies so far ...

    I eventually contacted Hardibacker and below is what they sent me. In a nutshell, you must not dot and dab it to the wall. Instead you must glue it to the wall with evenly spread tile glue and add a mechanical fixing for good measure. I'll be using fischer wall plugs for the mechanical fixing part.

    By the way, I got Hardibacker 500 sheets at 8 quid a piece from Jewsons ... a good 33% less than the Topps Tiles price.

    8. 1. Installation on brick walls
    8.1.1 Preparing the substrate
    Ensure wall is sound, clean and ready to receive HardieBacker®
    250 cement board. At minimum, the rear of HardieBacker® 250
    cement board and the masonry wall must be wiped down to
    remove all dust.
    8.1.2. Fixing sheets with tile adhesive, step 1
    Bond HardieBacker® 250 cement board to the masonry walling
    using tile adhesive. Apply tile adhesive to masonry walls using a
    6mm notched trowel. The tile adhesive must fully support HardieBacker
    ® 250 cement board and the HardieBacker® 250 cement
    board is firmly pressed into the tile adhesive.
    8.1.3 Fixing sheets with masonry anchors, step 2
    Use 9 pcs (3 rows of 3) ø 6mm x 50 mm masonry anchors with
    self embedding head. The masonry anchors are immediately
    fixed through the board into the masonry walls holding the
    sheeting in place. Do not overdrive head of anchor, it must be
    flush with face of HardieBacker® 250 cement board.
    Note: Do not dot and dab tile adhesive.
     
  6. what2do

    what2do New Member

    500 sheets!!!!!!! I thought that you said it was a very small space.
     
  7. imran_

    imran_ New Member

    Er, "Hardibacker 500"
     
  8. what2do

    what2do New Member

    ooops!!! having read the post again, it is quite clear that roger is not talking about a quantity of 500 - my mistake!!!

    On the same subject of tbb's, i've mechanically fixed them witout problems and have done so with the aknowledgement of knauf themselves, no need to batten, if the wall is adequate enough to take battens then it's also adequate to take the tbb's directly - catch my drift? My initial reason for speaking to the technical help was because i needed longer ceramic screws - to which i was told that there aren't any but it's ok to use normal passivated ones!!!!! thus, it begs the question - why use the ceramic coated ones? the techie said it was a 'belt & braces' approach and that no moisture should be penetrating thru to the screw heads anyway!!!! Don't you just love those conversations!!
     
  9. Phillip rahilly

    Phillip rahilly New Member

    What if bluegrit or equivalent is applied to back of cement boards can dot and dab be used?
     

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