I am digging trenches around the side and back of the house where damp is an issue. I want to install land drainage around these areas to supplement internal tanking. I have several short lengths of the 4 inch perforated pipe that is used for this purpose. What else do I need to connect this to an underground drain that in turn will go to a soakaway? I'll need to connect two runs of this stuff to a gully to take a downpipe then route that to the soakaway. Thanks
Sounds like you know what your doing already, all you need is more lengths of your 4" pipe, the different bends you need including a gully pot. Also plenty of shingle to set up your falls to your soakaway.
if your trenches are against the building hand some plastic down the wall to supliment tanking it will help to keep water out of wall and aditional cost is neglegibel
If by 'damp' you mean there is ground water at the side and back of the house, then you need to ensure there is a (downward) gradient between the planned trench and the soakaway...and that the soakaway invert is above the water table. Otherwise your excavations may create a whole new set of problems.
Trenches have been dug and so has the soakaway. I'm putting large stone in the bottom of the soakaway and grading it to smaller stone as I work to the top. I'm aiming for around 12" of infill above. I intend to use viscreen on top. Limestone Cowboy suggested geotextile on the sides as they are earth. By a stroke of good fortune the soakaway has been dug right in the middle of a redundant drain that runs from the house near where I want to put one anyway to the soakaway and beyond, so that's 10m of drain I've saved. One question I have - how do I join the pieces of land drain together? A silly question I know.
Is it 4" on a roll? It usually comes with a coupling on one end. You can get more from the same supplier. Ordinary underground fittings sort of work. If it's rigid perforated pipe use underground fittings.
Thanks, Underground couplings are a good idea. It's not as if it has to be completely leak proof I was wondering about slitting one about 6 inches down and pushing the other one into it, then duct taping the joint. I may even have a couple of gash couplings with the seals gone.... The lengths aren't completely ridged, they can be bent They are actually offcuts I rescued out of a skip some years ago when the local doctors surgery was being extended. They are each around 10 feet long. It seemed a shame to bin them when I knew I'd have a use for them soon.