Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by lemonade, Feb 15, 2017.
I have to replace an internal door so could someone tell if this is good way of fitting it.
Looks OK but if you need help there are better videos out there. Personally I always use a router to cut out for the hinges, it's just quicker and more accurate.
He admits himself at the end that it's a diy effort and the gaps around it around it are a bit too big, imo the gaps are wayyy to big, he doesn't know where he went wrong, I'd say it's because he's started with a door that already fitted into the lining ( lucky ) he then proceeded to scribe it in on both sides which obviously further shrinks the width. Don't get me wrong, it's kind of the right thing to do, you obviously want a nice even gap all round, his problem was the lining itself was poorly fitted and all over the place, in that position, I would have had the arcs of and sorted that out first.
Anyhoo , take it with a pinch of salt and sure it will be fine, there's bound to be better videos on there but I don't really watch people hanging doors online to know!
The basics are all there, chances are your door will be slightly too big to fit into the frame in the first place like his did though and so sizing it down would be a bit different, in which case I'd start by taking measurements in a few places down the frame and checking it for level, I'd then plane the door up to suit ( including the leading edge like in the video )
Depending on your experience, I will say , don't under estimate the job, so many diyers think door hanging is one of the easiest jobs going and ultimately make a mess of it or give up and call someone in, I'm all for people learning and doing work on their own homes though so give it a go!
One thing worth checking before you start is that the door frame is nice and plumb...
When the door is hung the pins of the hinges should be exactly in line and vertical above one another. If the frame is out of plumb, either leaning sideways, (as you look at the door from the room), or leaning into or out of the doorway, you'll need to compensate for this somehow.
It's possible to get the door hung if the frame isn't plumb, but it will have a tendency to either open or close of it's own accord if it's not right.
If there is one big problem I can point out is the misuse of what looks like a quality Marples chisel.
If you are going to use a chisel to lift a door and generally use it not for its intended purpose, get some cheap ones. I have about 4 Forge Steel ones from our hosts which I use for all sorts of jobs, everything from knocking through plasterboard to wedging up floorboards. Then I keep the quality chisels for woodwork. Message of the story: Don't misuse quality chisels.
Reading in between the lines of the message of the story...forge steel is sh**e
Which makes them perfect for buchering!
Was jesting...I'm sure they're perfectly useable
I have plenty of tools I use for butchering
Only DIY me but have hung a few doors and gotta say it's a job I hate with a passion
Good job my labour is free as seems to take all day to get the door fitting nicely
One tool I did buy was a door lifter you operate with your foot. Absolutely amazing and simple tool, invaluable I would say, even if just taking a door off for decorating and putting back on - leaves both hands free and effortless lifting of door into exact hinge position
Skimmed through the video and two things made me chuckle ........
Large gaps........ doors going to have several coats of paint ... ha ha yeah at a few microns thick per coat surely. Maybe in 40 years time when the door has been painted several times the paint film would have built up a little
2nd thing ......... screws supplied with hinges don't sit flush in countersink holes ................. why not .....? ......... light blue touch paper ............ run for the hills ..........avoid Mr Chips and HA....... unless you want another 20 pages of 'explanations'
The Winbag Air Wedge is great bit of kit for installing doors. They can be used for just about anything that needs adusting while keeping your hands free.
Just got this basic jobbie but works brilliantly and easy to lift and balance door
Been using one of those for years, excellent tool, great for heavy doors.
Trend door stand is one item I can honestly say I wouldn't be without, now I have got over parting with nearly forty quid all those years ago...... Puts a block and wedge to shame. Also, Uncle Jord's tip of the day, don't use a wedge to lift your door if it's hollow or a veneer if you've cut the bottom and decimated the batten or lipping, as the paper thin face of the door will start to distort under its own weight bearing on the edge of the wedge. Better to use a flat packer.
Thinking of getting a set. Fitting in fire doors and are a real nightmare to lift.
Get yourself a Triton superjaws. Ideal for holding a door horizontally while you plane it and will hold it vertically while you hang it
Not watched video but I Screw hinge on. Go around with Stanley knife. Router out. Chisel out corners. Do same with latch.
I can't recommend them highly enough Jit.
There are some alternatives, such as the super jaws sos suggested, but for ease of use and their size they are absolutely fantastic. They are really solid too, even abusing them and they don't leak. Come in handy for all sorts, not just doors or cabinet hanging.
I've ordered a pair, really struggling with the fire doors.
Been fitting in new linings this week, the brick openings are out of plumb really bad upto 1" in some places.
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