Kitchen fitting advice

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Orlaith, Jun 2, 2023.

  1. Orlaith

    Orlaith New Member

    I'm renovating my first flat and am short on cash - could afford new kitchen units but not the fitter prices. My dad has (very kindly) offered to fit my kitchen for me, he's a farmer and used to be a tiler so he's used to working with his hands but has never fitted a kitchen before and also doesn't use the internet much so probably won't be doing much research.

    There are some aspects of the kitchen (boiler unit and filler pieces in particular) that will require some custom work.

    Does anyone have any tips for him and a list of tools he might need? I'm going to be working most days he's here but will be helping in the evenings /weekend - do I need to get a handyman in to help or is it possible for one person to fit a kitchen (other than my help)?
     
  2. Kitfit

    Kitfit Member

    Get him a decent spirit level to start with.
    Time spent making sure units are fitted level and plumb will pay dividends later when coming to fit the doors.
    He's going to need some sort of sharp saw for cutting fillers etc .
    Planning on fitting worktops yourself and you're going to need router/ jig for that.
    Who is going to be doing the gas, electrics and plumbing too ?
     
  3. Orlaith

    Orlaith New Member

    Thanks for your reply, are fillers normally cut with a handsaw or should he have something else for those?

    I got the flat rewired so the electrician is sorting the electrics as part of his role, I got a gasman (fully registered) in to sort out the gas and will get him back in if needed, same with a plumber. I'm getting a countertop fitted separately so that's sorted as well.

    It's more the actual fitting of the cabinets I'm concerned about and if there's anything he should /shouldn't do as I know he's not computer literate enough to look this stuff up.
     
  4. Kitfit

    Kitfit Member

    Handsaw isn't really up to the job.
    Corner fillers will be straight cuts and will need cutting by circular saw, plunge saw or table saw.
    Scribed fillers especially on really bad shaped walls and you'll need a jigsaw with downcutting blades.
    Starting out fitting he'll need to check floor levels making sure to leave enough space under the worktops for freestanding appliances and any associated flooring that may be fitting later.
    It's basically levelling boxes but done badly and you'll end up with doors that don't line up and unsightly to the eye.
    What worktops have you chosen ?
     
  5. Truckcab79

    Truckcab79 Screwfix Select

    Levels are always essential but lasers are a game-changer. For a one-off job just buy a £25 two line laser off Amazon. Set it up and just adjust your cabinets to touch the line. Easier and far more accurate over long distances.
     
  6. Orlaith

    Orlaith New Member


    Okay that's really good info regarding the different tools he'll need, thank you.

    l got gluedown lvt installed last week and they put down levelling compound down first so hopefully the floor should be pretty level but will get him to check, as dad used to be a tiler he does get the importance of that thankfully. The walls are brick and look to be in decent condition after removing the tiles, are there any particular type of screws he should be using to attach the wall cabinets? I'm getting the extra tall 900x390mm ones from Howdens (my friend is letting me order on her trade account) so want to make sure the weight is properly supported.

    I'm getting a full quartz countertop and splashback put in as where I'm ordering from is bizarrely the same price as I was being quoted for compact laminate countertop alone elsewhere! That'll thankfully also take that job off dad's hands as well and they're also going to install the sink (not the plumbing, getting that done separately). I'm also getting handleless cabinets so no handles to worry about.

    So far in terms of tools to make sure he has I've got the following list written down of things to get:
    - spirit level
    - laser level
    - tape measure
    - drill
    - screwdriver
    - SDS (for the brick walls)
    - jigsaw (scribed filler)
    - corner fillers (circular saw, plunge saw or table saw)
    - Track saw (cutting plinths)
    - Wall fixings (have been recommended Fischer SX)

    Any other recommendations or surplus for the above?
     
  7. kitfit1

    kitfit1 Screwfix Select

    I'l be honest here, by the time you have actually bought all the tools you need, you may as well pay a proper kitchen fitter to do what's needed.
    Let's face it, are you ever going to use those tools again ? I think not.
    A proper kitchen fitter will already have all and more that is on your list. So really, what do you think you might be saving ? Especially as you are using your Dad, who has never fitted a kitchen ?
    As a reference, unless ALL the base units are dead level, front to back and along the length, Quartz tops will look rubbish at the joints.
    I can't understand how someone that can afford Quartz tops can't afford to have a kitchen installed by a pro fitter in the first place.
     
    Astramax, WillyEckerslike and Jord86 like this.
  8. Orlaith

    Orlaith New Member

    Again thanks for your input, I really do appreciate it. I however don't actually have to buy the tools, either I or my dad have most of them already and what we don't our local library does a tool rental service so that's not a financial outlay that's required. I understand that kitchen fitting is a skilled process and it would be my preferred to get a fitter in but the cheapest quote I got to install the kitchen was £5k (the quartz countertop for reference is costing £1600) so again, while I can afford the cabinets, flooring and countertop I unfortunately do not have an extra £5k to install the kitchen as I'm also getting the house rewired and while my father hasn't installed a kitchen before he is a very competent diy-er who was a professional tiler for years so does understand the importance of everything being level etc.

    I apologise if I'm coming across as defensive etc as that's not my aim, I am just trying to make my dad's life a little easier to try get some tips for him as he's not computer literate in any way so I've been trying to preempt the queries /questions he may have.

    Thanks again for all your help so far, I really do appreciate it and am grateful for it.
     
  9. Cris 11

    Cris 11 Active Member

    Hi. I am not a kitchen fitter but have done several kitchen in the past on properties I have refurbished. On your own and not being a pro it will take longer than you think because you will make mistakes and have to undo and redo some parts of the job so don't try to rush it.

    It really is about the levels and thinking ahead, my most important rule is never bodge it, if its wrong take it out and start again, bodges always come back and bite you on the ****.
    My last kitchen fit (my own home) took two weeks a pro would probably needed 3/4 days.

    When I used to do a build I would take my time think things through from start to finish and think about the effect of one part of the job will have on the next section of the job and the overall effect.
     
    Orlaith and stevie22 like this.
  10. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    Have a go. It's the only way to learn. With an expensive quartz worktop the No1 thing to do is get those cabinets level. They will have adjustable feet and will (should) be perfectly square. But the house probably won't be. A little laser is a godsend for doing this. My method is to get loads of little wooden blocks and make a mark part way up them all at the same height (you could use lego bricks). If you stand these all across the cabinet tops you can laser them all together - front and back, side to side. Get them all standing level and then fix them together and fix to the wall. Quite likely they won't all sit tight to the wall because the wall isn't straight. Don't worry about that - the worktop will scribe in.

    The other tool that is really handy is a decent mitre saw (sliding or chop) for cutting pelmets and cornices. (suggest you practice joints on offcuts first). Use mitrebond.

    Above all - plan - draw it out check the dims. Do NOT presume that you will get e.g. 2400mm of units into a gap 2400mm wide. Almost certainly the gap will not be perfectly square. Allow 20-30mm clearance in tight spaces and use filler pieces at the sides to fill any gaps (it may mean dropping a unit size - some ranges only have 100mm increments 400-500-600, some have 350, 450 etc.) Another "gotcha" is corner units. They are designed to fit 90 degree corners. Quite often room corners are not 90 so the corner units require the runs of units to run away from the wall one way or the other - always apply this runout to the shortest run of units.

    If it "looks right" it "is right" - the eye won't notice e.g. a tall end panel that has been cut so it's depth changes from say 610 to 590 between bottom and top, but a gap changing from say 10-30mm will be very obvious - the trick is to fiddle the installation in to the space so it all looks perfect.

    I fitted my first kitchen which I made completely myself (cabinets, tiled worktop, even the doors (out of whitewood) with a drill, jig saw, little 1/4" router for worktop profiling, sander and hand tools. You don't need loads of

    Have fun!
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2023
    stevie22 and Orlaith like this.

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