Kitchen Isolator Fused Switches: Help!

MattyBur

MattyBur

New Member
Hello, new here so I hope someone can help!

So, in doing up my rental flat to re-let, I'm having a new kitchen fitted and getting the EICR electrical checks etc done too.

The existing kitchen didn't have fused isolator switches for the appliances (only the cooker hood, oddly), which were just plugged in behind them, so I need to get them installed to comply with current regs and clear the certification.

I want to get brushed stainless steel sockets and switches in the kitchen area.

This electrician I'm using is being a bit frustrating with all of this, as he says I need to supply all of these for him to fit.

That's fine, but he's being very vague in what I need for the isolator switches.

He just says "4 switch fuse spur".

Now, I have a washing machine, an electric oven, a fridge and a cooker hood, so that's 4, but I also have a gas hob, which I presume is plugged in for the electrical ignition?

So, I'd need 5, right?

He also says they are freely available at B&Q, TLC and QVS but I have checked them, as well as Wickes and Screwfix but cannot find a panel with more than a single fused switch, let alone one with 4,5 or 6.

Does he mean I need multiple single ones lined up on the wall?

I've emailed him back for clarification but I can anticipate he won't be very clear.

My kitchen at home has a 6-switch fuse panel (pictured), but I can't find this anywhere!

Any thoughts..?

Thanks, Matt
 

Attachments

  • 3CEA52A0-7E6E-4A98-BD25-4B8E260A9D73.jpeg
    3CEA52A0-7E6E-4A98-BD25-4B8E260A9D73.jpeg
    262.3 KB · Views: 15
nigel willson said:
Sounds like you need a different electrician dont sound good to me
Click to expand...

Yes, I know! Thing is, he's a friend of the chap who's doing all the decorating for the flat and installing the new kitchen, and they work together a lot as a sort of team, so that's super awkward if I want to replace him!

But I am finding him very frustrating to deal with...
 
What regulation states that you need seperate isolation switches for appliances ,and can't just plug them into sockets ?
 
terrymac said:
What regulation states that you need seperate isolation switches for appliances ,and can't just plug them into sockets ?
Click to expand...

Well, I don't know. He said that the appliances need to be able to be switched off and isolated in an accessible way, without having to dismantle parts of the kitchen to get to them.
 
[QUOTE="MattyBur, post: 1844027, member: 231792"
The existing kitchen didn't have fused isolator switches for the appliances (only the cooker hood, oddly), which were just plugged in behind them, so I need to get them installed to comply with current regs and clear the certification.

[/QUOTE]

There is no reg, current or otherwise that says you have to have them, so don’t bother. Appliances have fuses in their plugs so why would you need another?
 
Banallsheds said:
[QUOTE="MattyBur, post: 1844027, member: 231792"
The existing kitchen didn't have fused isolator switches for the appliances (only the cooker hood, oddly), which were just plugged in behind them, so I need to get them installed to comply with current regs and clear the certification.
Click to expand...

There is no reg, current or otherwise that says you have to have them, so don’t bother. Appliances have fuses in their plugs so why would you need another?[/QUOTE]

Again, because, as I understand it, if the socket the appliance is plugged into is behind the appliance, under the counter, then it is not accessible to switch off and isolate.

Electrician said: "All appliances under your work surface are not able to be isolated hence the reason why we will have to redesign the wiring to ensure that each appliance can be isolated for maintenance or any other reason".

Is that wrong?
 
MattyBur said:
There is no reg, current or otherwise that says you have to have them, so don’t bother. Appliances have fuses in their plugs so why would you need another?
Click to expand...

Again, because, as I understand it, if the socket the appliance is plugged into is behind the appliance, under the counter, then it is not accessible to switch off and isolate.

Electrician said: "All appliances under your work surface are not able to be isolated hence the reason why we will have to redesign the wiring to ensure that each appliance can be isolated for maintenance or any other reason".

Is that wrong?[/QUOTE]


He also says "Chrome sockets and chrome isolators (switch fuse spur) are the responsibility of the client to purchase."

Is that reasonable also? I understand that I have to pay extra for non white plastic ones, but am I supposed to source them myself too?

I don't want to argue that if that is indeed standard practice, but I can't believe I have to go trawling all over the interwebs and posting on forums just to find out what it is I need to get!
 
I think that is one of those myths that has grown into an unspecified "regulation". Personally, I like the idea of being able to isolate an appliance without touching it and I generally put a switched single socket in an adjacent unit. In reality, if you wanted to isolate an appliance in an emergency (quite what though) where the plug is behind it you could simply turn off the circuit at the CU for the brief time it would take to pull the appliance out and pull its plug out.
 
NoOhmToGoTo said:
I think that is one of those myths that has grown into an unspecified "regulation". Personally, I like the idea of being able to isolate an appliance without touching it and I generally put a switched single socket in an adjacent unit. In reality, if you wanted to isolate an appliance in an emergency (quite what though) where the plug is behind it you could simply turn off the circuit at the CU for the brief time it would take to pull the appliance out and pull its plug out.
Click to expand...

Yes, that would make sense.

Sounds like I need to contact another electrician for a second opinion then.

I've never undertaken anything like this before, so am stressing about doing it all on my own, with a very unhelpful electrician who sort of came within the 'package' of the bloke who's doing the decorating and kitchen stuff to my flat, and now I don't know how to get rid of him! :confused:
 
Having in the past purchased things for customers ,who then say " Oh I don't like those" or " I was expecting the same ones my sister has" ,I prefer customers to select certain things themselves. Just like a ceiling light fitting ,you wouldn't expect an electrician to choose one for you ,or would you ?
With regard to having seperate isolators they are simply not required .
 
He also says "Chrome sockets and chrome isolators (switch fuse spur) are the responsibility of the client to purchase."

Is that reasonable also? I understand that I have to pay extra for non white plastic ones, but am I supposed to source them myself too?

I don't want to argue that if that is indeed standard practice, but I can't believe I have to go trawling all over the interwebs and posting on forums just to find out what it is I need to get![/QUOTE]

If a client has seen a specific accessory that they want then I say they can either source them themselves or give me a link and I'll get them. There isn't a right or wrong it's usually by mutual agreement. So, if you don't want to then the electrician should and he'll be right to mark them up a bit for his trouble.
Also, as there is such a bewildering array, I would expect a conversation between electrician and client to determine which accessories are wanted. Who gets them is only really relevant in the pricing process.
 
Thanks. All I'd want, really, is for him to say "Here's a link to the thing you need", and then I'd order it, pay for it, and he can fit it.

That way, I'd know it's exactly the right part, which he has chosen himself, and I've bought for him to fit.

I don't think I'm gonna get that out of him though, in a way which isn't similarly vague, confusing and evasive...
 
For the amount of money I'd make on accessories I actually prefer the client to source them. That way, if they go wrong it's all their fault and they then pay me to replace them!! Mind you, counting seems to be an issue with most of them, we're generally short of something or other.
 
I would use 20A switches for above counter isolation, if they’re cheap enough.
No point having 2 fuses in line.
 
NoOhmToGoTo said:
For the amount of money I'd make on accessories I actually prefer the client to source them. That way, if they go wrong it's all their fault and they then pay me to replace them!! Mind you, counting seems to be an issue with most of them, we're generally short of something or other.
Click to expand...

Then you sound like an electrician I would want to avoid!
 
spinlondon said:
I would use 20A switches for above counter isolation, if they’re cheap enough.
No point having 2 fuses in line.
Click to expand...

Nah, that old skool Spin! All those nasty switches cluttering the place up. You'll be suggesting a grid switch next!!
 
MattyBur said:
Then you sound like an electrician I would want to avoid!
Click to expand...

Charming! And after all that wisdom I've freely dispensed! I think you may be starting to sound like the sort of client I would avoid. Maybe your current electrician has a point eh?!
 
Can use grid switches, but I wouldn’t use one as I think you are suggesting.
Makes using a RFC pointless.
 
NoOhmToGoTo said:
Charming! And after all that wisdom I've freely dispensed! I think you may be starting to sound like the sort of client I would avoid. Maybe your current electrician has a point eh?!
Click to expand...

Hehe, no offence meant - but I would hope that an electrician doesn't do that to me. I appreciate all your wisdom though! :p
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top