Laminate cut around door frames

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Diana D, Nov 27, 2021.

  1. Diana D

    Diana D New Member

    Hi guys
    I had new laminate flooring installed and the guys that did it cut around all the door frames/architraves and as you can imagine there are huge gaps now and looks pretty s***. If anyone has any recommendations on how to fill those gaps I'd appreciate it ... I don't think taking the entire flooring out is an option anymore :(
    The flooring is a light grey colour if that is of any help. I heard of using caulk or mastic but to be honest I am worried I am going to make it even worse...
     
  2. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Laminate flooring isn't supposed to be cut around door frames and architraves - it's supposed to be invisibly tucked underneath them using a technique called undercutting. It should be seamless, like this:

    under-cutting-door-jambs-with-hand-saw-before-installing-laminate-flooring.w654.jpg

    Could you post some pictures please Diana?
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2021
    BiancoTheGiraffe likes this.
  3. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Shame the fitters have gone for the quick, bodge method and left you with an eyesore / as above, pictures would help to suggest a way forward

    So, how have they tackled the issue where flooring meets skirting boards ?

    Generally 2 methods used here;

    1.Skirtings are removed, flooring laid, skirts refitted or replaced to cover expansion gap between laminate and wall

    2. Laminate laid up to skirts to include expansion gap, then a trim fitted to hide this gap

    This method is often used with your method of floor laying around door frames, to again cover the gaps but ends up looking just weird where the trims stop and start around door frame (even when done neatly with return mitres)

    Without seeing pictures at this stage, I recon a colour matched silicon would be the best way forward to complete the floor but, the silicone must be finished super neat and tidy or can look equally horrendous

    I’m just surprised how the ‘fitters’ can leave the floor finished - I presume ? - with these gaps around frames

    Was there no discussion had when they did a site visit and/or details on their written quote as to how the floor would be finished ?
     
  4. JohnH100

    JohnH100 New Member

    I've had a few goes at laying laminate, it doesn't take a time served joiner to get a good result, I'm only a DIYer.
    I've used the architrave twixt floor and skirting previously, easy to do but looks a bit "cheap" in my book.
    I laid 40+ sq metres a few weeks ago and I removed the skirtings and replaced with MDF ones.
    Quite pleased with the results.
     

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  5. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    And so you should be. Very tidy job.
     
    McSport likes this.
  6. Diana D

    Diana D New Member

    I only have one picture (I will take more for you)...and please don't get a fright..they even got the underlay wrong until I noticed and told them to turn it the right way around (the hallway still has it the wrong way up)...anyway you get the gist ...the flooring around the doors look something like this :mad: it gives me anxiety just thinking about it...wasted material and money
     

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  7. Diana D

    Diana D New Member

    picture is below...I totally agree, I was unable to be there and I was just presented the result...tadaa
     
  8. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Oh my goodness.

    No more pictures are really necessary. I'm sure you already know this - but that isn't the work of someone who knows what they are doing. Is there any possibility of redress? They've made a hash of your floor and should be made to pay for it. I absolutely hate seeing chancers do this to hardworking people.

    If this isn't possible - the only thing I could suggest is;

    a) If you have any boards left, get a professional flooring guy in to remove the offending boards (not easy), undercut the frame and architraves, and repair the rubbish parts, or

    b) Seal the gaps with as close a colour match acrylic sealant as you can. Unika CS4218 should be pretty close - it actually always looks better if the sealant is a slightly darker shade than the actual floor as it 'jumps out' less. I've suggested acrylic rather than silicone because it will be much easier for you to use - it's water-based for easy cleanup and tidy finishing. You can go round the edges with masking tape, put in your sealant and wipe it into the gaps with your finger. If you mess up - just clean it off with a damp cloth and have another go. Or - just squeeze some into the gap, and gently wipe it flat with a wet finger without using tape. Any smears left on your floor can be wiped away with kitchen roll. It's not difficult to get a decent finish with a bit of practise.

    https://www.solmer.co.uk/hardware/unika-colorsealant-310ml.html

    Hope you get fixed up.
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2021
  9. BiancoTheGiraffe

    BiancoTheGiraffe Screwfix Select

    I don't understand why anyone would do that!

    It takes about a minute to cut the architrave down, you just need to lay everything in a sensible order so boards slide under nicely.

    I'll never understand why people leave such an enormous "expansion gap" either, completely unnecessary!
     
  10. sally green

    sally green Active Member

    Sadly, too many clowns around that take customers for a ride.

    I/We have been caught out twice, EG, about 5 years ago new heating in one of my siblings properties, we asked all the questions we thought - there was a leak a few days after in the loft of the bungalow. Plumber came around said "it was a loose push fit" no apology/etc and my sibling said who on earth calls themselves plumbers and use plastic pushfits in loft, less learned. Then I had a chisioned lino for the bathroom about 15 years ago via carpetright, the fitting was "independet" to them the salemean said and we needed to pay the jerk on the day. The jerk fitted the lino in the bathroom but no sealant around the edge of the toilet pan,basin pedestal or the base of the bath pannle. I asked him why not, he said he'd do it for 25 pound - I told him to GO.

    It should not be like this but many crooks around

    We fitted hardwood flooring ourselves to 5 bedrooms - bought one of those vibarating cutters and imo did a better job than most floor layers - even the people that come to our home feel is an A1 "professional job" - it tood 2 days per room inc new skirting, but saved loads of money and imo a better job.


    Now, I have questions lined up for portential tradespeople and NEVER assume anyhting as some of these jerks will rob you with crappy work given half the chance and then its too late.


    btw - about ten years ago has interanl doors painted several were new doors we told them to ensure they were sanded down etc as per good paint job. The jerks assured us and one day when we returned home from work for lunch they had a bloke sanding away at the doors - about 3 years down the road one of the doors is pelling so they were con jobs imo.

    When paying for work with your hard enarned cash, watch them tell them you will be around and ask them many questions and then if they are not doing that pull them up
     
  11. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Screwfix Select

    Fair points Sally - but don't go down the dangerous rabbit-hole of assuming every tradesman is the same. Speaking from a working lifetime's worth of personal experience - the easiest way to antagonise a time-served, skilled professional (aka 'the jerk' ?) is to either make him feel that he's on the back foot from the get-go, or to micro-manage everything he does. After 35 years on the tools, old hands like me recognise the warning signs the second we walk through the door to price a job up. If any tradesman/customer dynamic-related alarm bells ring, we walk away.

    And warning these guys that you'll be around watching them? I wouldn't work for you if you said that to me.

    Just a friendly bit of solid advice.
     
    Rosso likes this.
  12. chillimonster

    chillimonster Screwfix Select

    yep, that's about right.

    bad customers and there's bad tradesmen , they never seem to end up with each other.
     
  13. Paullie

    Paullie New Member

    Hi, fortunately my builder did a good job undercutting the architraves. We got beading along the skirting boards to hide the expension gap of our LVT. But where the beading hits the architrave the beading stops and the undercut gaps are very visible. I've seen people chaulk it or silicone it, but is there an alternative? Like a beading you can "mould" around the cornery architrave?
     

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  14. Rosso

    Rosso Screwfix Select

    That isn't a good job. The fitter has undercut far too high- there should be about 0.5mm clearance max.
    Was he unaware of the flooring that you have chosen, or was the thickness of the material supplied different from what was ordered?
    I'm struggling to understand how this has happened.
     
  15. Paullie

    Paullie New Member

    I know, me too, but this is what it is now. So now trying to find a solution to close that gap. Maybe like a "flexible skirt" or something that wraps nicely around all the corners of the architrave?... Just thinking outside the box here....
     
  16. Rosso

    Rosso Screwfix Select

    Ok. I would :
    Get a bit of card, and make a template for the shape of the doorlining/architrave.
    Cut some ply or mdf slightly undersize to that template. only a mil or so under.
    Tape cling film, to protect the flooring, to the floor, going right under the architrave.
    Glue the ply into position.
    Use two part filler to make good the moulding shape, sand it to fit perfect.
    Paint the doorlinings/architraves (if I have to. I hate painting and usually tell customers they need to call Dave Hall the decorator
    At the end, use a fine scalpel to cut the cling film away around the doorway.
     
  17. Paullie

    Paullie New Member

    Thanks. You gave me a great idea.
     
  18. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    IMG_0316.jpeg
    When you say that your builder did a good job at undercutting the frames - you’re being sarcastic yes ?

    I’m diy only and have laid a fair amount of laminate and LVT and always undercut door frames. Simple tried and tested method of section of scrap laminate over the underlay, rest multi-tool blade flat on scrap laminate and cut away - keeping blade flat and level and height of underlay + flooring - really not difficult to do

    Above photo - LVT Floor Tiles, recently laid for a friend (they helped, a tiny bit !) Narrow hallway but 5 doorways all undercut

    As to filling the gap, as ever, various ways to achieve a good end result. Can buy ‘backer rods’ that are foam tubes of various thicknesses that are shoved into gaps like this prior to applying silicone which prevent the sili from disappearing deep into the void

    Or simply ram some folded up kitchen paper into gaps, leaving around 3-5mm from front face of frame. Either fill with 2-part filer or acrylic frame sealant

    If using filler, protect surrounding floor area with a couple layers good quality masking tape - this will keep filler off floor and protect whilst hand sanding

    Of acrylic frame sealant, may need two applications to allow for a little shrinkage as drying but easy to use, easy to shape around frame profile, water based, easy clean up, over-paintable

    Hopefully the rest of the floor laying is ok ?
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2023
  19. H Bell

    H Bell Active Member

    Oh, dear.

    It's not completely wasted, but I would not trust them to continue. They are clearly incompetent. You can either have it fixed as it was intended, or remove the bottom four or five inches of architrave and fit a nice moulding.
     

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