Laminate Floor Around Panels

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by brighton86, Sep 9, 2021.

  1. brighton86

    brighton86 New Member


    First time DIY'er here.

    We had our kitchen installed prior to us putting down the (floating) laminate floor. Apparently the correct way round as you wouldn't want cabinets on top of a floating floor. Makes sense.

    However, I assumed I needed to leave the correct expansion gap around the panels. Also makes sense. The floor still needs space to expand.

    However, now I am confused as to what to do next? Surely if I fill the gaps with a matching wood filler that defeats the point of leaving an expansion gap? I need to do something though as a) it looks bad, and b) all the dust/dirt gets trapped there...

    Help needed. Thanks.

    Attached Files:

  2. Hell68

    Hell68 Member

  3. brighton86

    brighton86 New Member

    I originally thought that as I've used beeding infront of the skirting boards in the dining room, however, I can't really put that infront of the plinths (can I?) and it would look odd just around the base of the panel?

    Thanks for the suggestion though.. maybe one to re-consider...
  4. Hell68

    Hell68 Member

    No you're right. Sorry didn't realise it was around the plinths. Although I've now got vinyl in my kitchen I've found flexible scotia on ebay that I've put around those bits just to finish it off like this.....

    Possibly not the right stuff either lol but neatens everything up and goes around bends nicely.

    (and now I've replied you'll probably get someone reply who actually knows what they're taking about :D)
  5. mitefix

    mitefix Active Member

  6. I-Man

    I-Man Screwfix Select

    the cutout is way too big by the way
  7. Muzungu

    Muzungu Screwfix Select

    I know it's not any help now but I would have put the flooring under the end panels.
    BillyBobToo and CGN like this.
  8. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    In this situation, I would use unpainted pine Scotia trim, neatly mitred around the end panel

    Get some paint colour matched to panels and paint trims

    Could go with a brown Scotia trim but often they don’t exactly match the flooring and could well stick out like a sore thumb

    Also, the MDF Scotia is rubbish, which the majority seems to be. Will suffer from the odd spill of water or if you mop the floor, MDF soaks up the water and then ‘blows’

    Also the external corners will, over time, suffer from impact damage and disintegrate

    Can get some resin (plastic) Scotia but again, need to consider the colour match on what’s available

    If you use the natural pine, it’s harder wearing and can touch up any scuffs in the future with your colour matched paint - stick them on with ‘mitre bond’ and a thin bead of clear silicone onto floor to prevent water from seeping underneath

    Adding a trim will also save the panels from again, water damage and blowing over time

    A few options to consider :)
  9. brighton86

    brighton86 New Member

  10. brighton86

    brighton86 New Member

    Hmm. Thanks for the suggestion but as above i'm just not convinced a trim round just the panels will look good. I think I'd need to go all round the kickboards too which will then make getting under the cupboards a nightmare (if ever I needed to). I have thought about doing this though as the same flooring goes into 2 other rooms and has a trim round the skirting.
  11. brighton86

    brighton86 New Member

    I've actually gone less than the instructions said to do. In the rooms I've done the recommended 12mm-15mm. I can't remember what I did around the panels but as you can see, its under a centimetre.
  12. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    You’ve basically got 3 options.

    caulk/silicon it

    use some trim (scotia)

    or if you’ve got some laminate left, then take it back up to just in front of the units, remove end panels on the end of unit runs, kick boards etc, and relay it under, then trim panels to suit. Any end panels used in the middle of a run, you’ll have to undercut the bottom front edge to allow the laminate to slide under.
    koolpc likes this.
  13. koolpc

    koolpc Screwfix Select

    This is the best solution by far.
  14. I-Man

    I-Man Screwfix Select

    As in that's fine for the edges of rooms where it's hidden by skirting (12-15mm), but in your case where you've cut around the end panels - a) obviously you've now learned that the flooring should have extended to underneath the plinths anyway, but b) given that's the path you went down, still should have kept the cut out leaving a minimum gap maybe 1/2 mm which can easily then be caulked.

    Anyway, you mentioned you were a 1st time DIY'er - so don't worry it's all part of the learning process
  15. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Clearly it’s your kitchen/house so your choice how you move forward with this

    But,,,,,, using the pine Scotia and painting same colour as panels would look brilliant (in my opinion) :)

    Easy to mitre with a mitre block and 300mm blade hacksaw (gives a nice clean cut even though wood isn’t it’s intended use)

    Any gaps, can fill / caulk / (or cut again)

    Once painted, will look like it’s part of the end panel and it’s always been there

    Get the paint RAL Number off kitchen suppliers and have paint colour matched

    ‘If’ you can get a silicone that blends well colour wise with floor, could consider simply using this but, it’s gonna be a wide bead and the application needs to be perfect (using a profile tool)

    Anyway……. Good to have several options
  16. brighton86

    brighton86 New Member

    Thank you. Not sure I've got it in me to do the third option but will definitely remember that for next time I get involved in this sort of thing (hopefully not for 10-15 years!)

    With the caulk/silicone option, please can you confirm whether I can actually put this in the (expansion) gap or does it essentially make the gap useless? Not sure anyone has answered that yet.

    Thanks again.
  17. brighton86

    brighton86 New Member

    Thank you (and to everyone else) for taking the time to reply. Its much appreciated.

    Just checking I've understood, you would have the scotia just around the panels, like this? I guess I've always had it in my head I'd do it with the beeding matching the floor (other rooms) but doing it colour matched to the panels is a good suggestion. Hmm...

    Attached Files:

  18. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Yes, exactly as per your squiggles !

    Trim the plinth seal back a little so Scotia trim fits to plinth

    Plinths need to remain removable so can either pull forward from other end, or if you have an end panel at both ends of plinth, then as long as you have a gap between top of plinth and underside of base unit (not unusual to have a 5-10mm gap here) ‘should’ be able to pull plinths forward from the top and remove them this way

    These end panels often get damaged as I said previously, where they meet the floor

    Occasionally they’re siliconed to stop water getting underneath but can also suffer impact damage over time

    The trim will help to protect them, can be repainted or if damaged, easier to replace the trim than the whole panel

    One length, say from BQ of pine Scotia will give you loads of cuts and a good few practice runs also !
  19. Bob256

    Bob256 Member

    It's not clear to me why a 1/2 mm gap would be adequate here, when 10mm or so is needed everywhere else.
  20. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    find the smallest beading possible that will cover the gap. Mitre it and stick it together to form a ‘U’ that will slide in nicely. Paint it the same colour as the units and in a week or so time, you’ll probably have forgot about it.

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