Morning all, I have a leak coming from within the return manifold on my Greenstar CDi boiler. It’s a slow drip when the heating is on, but increases to a steady drip when it switches off. Is it likely to be a worn part and am I safe to drain the boiler and attempt a repair (as it’s not part of the gas set up)? If I just surrender and call out a plumber next week, how much would you expect it cost? Any advice welcome. Thanks!
It looks like its on the water main into the boiler. Washer probably just needs replaced. Take a couple more pictures and try trace the pipe back out the boiler.
Thanks Mike the rest of the plastic cover was dry apart from one small connection point towards the back. I’ll try to get the plastic off and get a better photo
Don’t tamper unless sure. The pcb sits in front of all this pipework. I’m sure it’s main that’s leaking. So isolating the water main, then removing the pipe, fit 2 new washers and refit.
Heeb, is that copper pipe easy to move? If so, I see no harm in FIRST getting hold of a replacement rubber O-ring (or whatever is in there) and then tackling the job if you feel up to it. Chances are that will sort it. I guess there's also a chance it's the join betwixt the copper pipe and the brass flangy fitting - can you see any water coming from that join? It's all an easy pull-out-pin job, but like all these simple tasks it'll help if you know what to expect - anyone here able to advise on the best way to remove and replace that securing pin? Just a small flat-bladed screwdriver? Any other tips? (I replaced the top-up tap on my GlowWorm boiler many moons ago - an equally simple task with a bent securing pin like yours. New tap in, push 'home', slip in pin. Turn water back on - and I got soaked. The really bad news was that I was at the far end of the room when I got my soaking - never seen a jet of water quite like it. Turned out the tap wasn't pushed in as far as I'd thought, so the pin slipped in on the wrong side of its flange. Virtually impossible to actually tell due to awkward location.)
Thanks both! Everywhere is shut today. I’ve got about a thousand washers in the garage, but will read up and make sure I’ve got the right ones first. Happy New Year!
Hmmmm - look for an exploded diagram on-line to ID the exact part(s), or try a surf (although Mike above seems to know what's in there?) Get the CORRECT part! Also watch out for the PCB advice above - cover and protect that fully until you are certain the leak has been cured. Oh - and report back when it's done pleeeeeeeeez
Hi Heebgb. You say return manifold but that looks like the 'cold water in' pipework. I fixed a Greenstar (different variation) with that same leak two weeks ago. Assuming yours the same as my customers' boiler, isolate the power and cold into the boiler and open up any hot taps in the property to drain down the hot water side. Disconnect the turbine wiring connection - two wires IIRC. Have a towel ready then undo the pipe at the manifold end then pull out the clip in your photo and remove the pipe - it's quite tight where it's routed around the pump but it will come out. Once this is out of the way you should be able to see the flow restrictor housing sitting behind where the clip was. This will pull out but is likely to be very well stuck. There are two O rings around the housing which may need replacing. In my case I found the housing itself had become brittle and parts had broken off which caused the leak, so I simply renewed the part which came with new O rings (had to reuse the regulator and spacers that were inside as my supplier didn't carry them). If it helps, I charged £90 for the job.
Thanks for the replies! It’s a steady drip, so will look to get the parts this evening and have a look in the morning. I’ve attached the exploded diagram. Genuinely can’t find the housing listed, but there are missing images...
Is that copper pipe that goes in to it a proper 'boiler' fitting or just an ordinary piece of copper pipe? I suspect the former - so look for that piece on a diagram and then see what 'seals' are used around it.
found the black casing part listed online: 87161064420 Worcester Greenstar Return Manifold There's nothing wrong with it, but it looks tricky to access the leaking parts
Having looked more closely at you exp diag, it all looks very familiar - I'm pretty sure someone else had an identical issue last year (2017) - worth a 'search' on here? Anyhoo, I am not familiar with this boiler (I only know one boiler fairly intimately...), but I'd have thought that the securing pin (what's it called? It's basically 'U'-shaped with added wobbles) that secures that pipe in place will also allow the other internal bits to be extracted. The black housing appears to be 'open' along its top, so that should help. Darn - worth finding that other thread because I'm sure the guy finally found the cause - and solution - to the leak.
On the same site as the diagram you listed look at the section ‘tubes’ It’s key 17. Held in with a clip.
Not sure it has the solution - I haven't read it to the end https://community.screwfix.com/threads/leaking-boiler-can-i-fix-it.181258/#post-1439106
Oops - looks like it was more involved than we thought... I can see a 'fixed price' repair coming on...
that is a messy thread hopefully the whole boiler isn't in as bad shape. the parts are fairly cheap, but I might get someone out to take a look.
Thanks dcox! That part and the ones mentioned in the other post are cheap enough, it's hopefully just a simple case of replacing the damaged one.