Leaking bottom valve/tap on tower rail

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Russtar10, Dec 6, 2017.

  1. Russtar10

    Russtar10 New Member

    Hi.

    Having reviewed similar but not identical problems on this forum and tried and failed to resolve this myself using plumbers tape and tightening nuts around the area, I’m looking for some guidance afore calling a plumber.

    The only way I can stop this particular leak is by turning off this valve at the bottom of the tower rail which also appears to be the sauce of the leak. When I turn it on I’m met with a jet of water where the valve/tap meets the rest of the metal work.

    Hopefully the picture helps to better explain the issue than I have, but have you any ideas or recommendations.

    Finally, we’ve already been quoted £75 plus parts from a plumber which being a tight bum does seem a little expensive.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. teabreak

    teabreak Well-Known Member

    I'm afraid the only solution is to change the valve, the O ring seal has gone and is not serviceable.
    Replace it with a proper rad vale at the same time, maybe go thermostatic.
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-chrome-straight-trv-x-15mm/41410
    Those will either screw directly into the rad or you can ditch the tail piece and use a spare olive to fit it in line, like the original.
     
  3. Russtar10

    Russtar10 New Member

    Thanks teabreak. Owing to the proximity of the bath I would be unable to remove the same valve closest to the wall (that you can’t see from the picture), I take it I can just replace the faulty valve and leave the other in situ? Finally and this may be a stupid question, would I need to drain the system before replacing the faulty valve?
     
  4. teabreak

    teabreak Well-Known Member

    Yes you can just replace if it is easier for you.
    There are ways to avoid draining, but unless you are experienced they are best avoided, 'cos you can find yourself in deep do-do if things go wrong!

    The system can be air locked by fitting bungs in the loft tank and closing off the other valve on the rad, releasing pressure and working fast!
    Likewise sealed systems can be de-pressurised and any auto air vents sealed, before work, but stick to draining down. That way you have time to sort out any problems and keep the downstairs ceilings intact!;)
     
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  5. The Teach

    The Teach Active Member

    Depending where in Uk,thats not to bad :)
     
  6. Russtar10

    Russtar10 New Member

    Cheltenham although I’m from Sunderland which may explain my ‘tightness’
     
  7. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Well-Known Member

    Thats a gas isolation valve, probably not WRACS approved hence the leak. Needs to be taken off and the pipework sorted accordingly.
     
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  8. Russtar10

    Russtar10 New Member

    Hmmm ok, but still something that could be sorted by a reputable plumber as opposed to a gas registered engineer?
     
  9. Dave does Gas

    Dave does Gas Well-Known Member

    Indeed, just looks like someones used the first fitting he could get his hands on out of the van.
    Not gas related so any comptant person can do it. Good luck.
     
    Russtar10 likes this.

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