Leaking outdoor tap, not as simple fix as i thought.. cracked brass foot

Mkol

Mkol

Member
noticed my outdoor tap was badly leaking this mornign and on closer inspection found this: this is one of those tap kits that has the female brass foot that is fixed to a lenth of 15mm copper that goes through the wall. unfortunately getting to the pipework the other side of this wall would involve dismantling a load of tiled boxing and removing a toilet cistern as the previous occupant failed to fit any easy access!

does anyone know any miracle workaround that would involve not having to remove/replace this part of the tap?

cant figure how it happened as we havent had any frost for weeks!



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You might be able to fix it with a jubilee clip and some sealant. Turn water off to tap, unscrew the tap, clean up the components, fit jubilee clip to split section and tighten, apply sealant to threads and refit tap. Turn on water.

No guarantees.......
 
You could try and cut the collar square at the end of the crack and then make the tap back in,if there is enough length to do this.
 
Looks like too much ptfe on the thread and it's been over tightened. Miliput resin putty might work, brass would need to be dry whilst doing it. Or if the brass was cleaned up enough, a bit of solder might work?
 
I've been wondering whether you could solder a new section in. The backplate and pipe are available from our hosts for less than a fiver. Could you cannibalise that to make a new one?
 
WillyEckerslike said:
I've been wondering whether you could solder a new section in. The backplate and pipe are available from our hosts for less than a fiver. Could you cannibalise that to make a new one?
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Looks a small enough gap to solder but I did wonder whether the plastic check valve would get damaged in the process!
 
ecoplumbing said:
Looks a small enough gap to solder but I did wonder whether the plastic check valve would get damaged in the process!
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I know - that was my thought as well. You could almost do with the tap not being there but that wouldn't work. It might be possible to remove the vulnerable bits from the tap - like you do when you solder in a drain valve.
 
The extra PTFE might be from someone trying to get the tap vertical when tight. PTFE doesn't like being backed off unlike Loctite 55.
 
thanks for the quick replies folks! im curious about the jubilee clip idea just as its seems so simple and robust, what sealant would you reccomend it that setting?
 
Deleted member 11267 said:
You could try and cut the collar square at the end of the crack and then make the tap back in,if there is enough length to do this.
Click to expand...
unfortunetly i dont think there is enough length, if i cut it back to the start of the crack, when i screwed the tap fully in it would foul the start of the copper pipe thats bonded to the back of the foot...
 
your outside tap looks like it has had some impact or been tightened by a grip type of wrench,there are visible markings of both.Historical freezing with poor repair is also a consideration.

really need a new through the wall connector pipe arrangement and adopt the installation to the new standard,yes there are standards :p
 
Needs it replaced. Might be possible to have it melted off and a new flange installed.
There is also female 1/2” x 15mm brass fitting will also do and easier to solder due to having no flange. Some CT1 around it later will hold the fitting solid to wall
There is a proper way to install those flanges to prevent the tap damaging the flange.
 
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