Loft Header Tank

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by leechy, Apr 19, 2006.

  1. leechy

    leechy New Member

    Not been on in here for a while but need some advise.

    Fitted a new bathroom and ensuit, the ensuit having a shower with a pump that seems to be using all the water in the header tank quicker than it can refill.

    I am thinking of replacing the header with a larger tank to try and resolve this?

    Will this work for one and whats the best way to join multiple tanks as I know I wont get a single large tank through the hatch. My plan was to leave the existing one and attach a second one of a similar size?

    All advise welcome.
  2. stop cock

    stop cock New Member

    Are you thinking two 25gals to make 50 gals?
  3. leechy

    leechy New Member

    Yes, hopefully this would solve the problem?
  4. Legal Sparrow

    Legal Sparrow New Member

    Never done this myself but read on this very forum that you....

    Put the new tank next to the old, making sure thay are at the same (ish) level.

    Leave the float and gubbins in the old tank.
    Connect the old tank outlet, to the inlet of the new tank (22mm pipe was considered best) making sure the inlet of the new tank is at or below the water level in the tanks.
    Connect the outlet of the new tank to your h/w pipe.

    I'd connect up both overflows as well (not rely on one)

    This ensures that the cold water flows from one tank to tother, and you don't end up with one tank of stagnant water.

    As I said I'm not a plumber so there could be errors above. I'm sure the pro's will be along to correct if I'm wrong.
  5. stop cock

    stop cock New Member

    Or even use 28mm pipe and tank connectors between tanks for increased flow. I would also use a gate or ball lever valve between the two to save water in case of draining down.
  6. giffy

    giffy New Member

    If using two tank you must take the feed from both and join to one feed and connect up to h/w and c/w if indirect feed. Feeding from one tank to the next and taking the feed from that will cause stagnant water.

  7. stop cock

    stop cock New Member

    Surely if your incoming mains in in the right hand tank and your feeding to h/w from your left hand tank there's no chance of stagnent water?
  8. giffy

    giffy New Member

    If both tank are at the same level water will not travel from take 1 to tank 2, could over flow tank 1. Both should be mains feed. If both mains feed and water only taken from tank 2 the water in tank 1 will not get used as tanks 2 supplying house. Take feed from both tanks problem solved.
    If tanks were at different level, the water would travel from tank1 to tank two. I.e. tank 2 completely below tank 1.

  9. giffy

    giffy New Member

    Not very will explained and take back part about tank 1 overflowing. To fill tank 2 from tank 1 you require water pressure, which would be low. Therefore, mains feed both and draw off from both.

  10. tgs

    tgs New Member

    Actually both methods are used to achieve the same end. Most domestic installations with two tanks have the mains in tank one and the output from tank two but I have also seen all sorts of variations.

    If using the single mains input to one tank the the coupling pipe has to be at the far end of the tank and the output from tank two has to be at the far end from the coupling pipe so that each tank is swept through as water is supplied.

    Doubling up on the inlet valves and outlets probably makes the most of the water flow as well as allowing isolation of each tank.
  11. giffy

    giffy New Member

    Taken, only going with what I was taught to do (C&G).
  12. tgs

    tgs New Member

    Taken, only going with what I was taught to do (C&G).

    Yup, I think the two tanks in parallel are mostly used in commercial/industrial environs but I can certainly see advantages in the domestic set-up. Several of the double tank set-ups I've seen in houses have been a combination of the two.

    Anything that's supposed to be done one way your sure to find half a dozen variations in practice.
  13. Dreadnaught Heating

    Dreadnaught Heating New Member

    Whatever you do do, place the coldwater outlet to the pump about 25mm (1") BELOW the haot water outlet (down to the cylinder).
    Should the water level ever drop to the same level as the hot outlet, at least the pump can still draw cold water through, saving a potential scalding situation.
  14. tightenit

    tightenit New Member

    I'd go for a 50 gallon coffin tank every time. Narrow and short but long. This all in one sucker for under £70 is the biz. Just need to make sure that the rake of your roof will let you slide it in, providing of course your loft hatch will take it. Two tanks together isn't difficult but all the ***ting about may be unnecessary.
  15. 0161coop

    0161coop New Member

    Giffy is quite right - parallel tanks is how we are taught to do it at college. I can well believe its done differently in the real world!

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice