I need a solution whereby you can screw in this into say a metal surface and it stops at the middle piece, then I can hang an audio speaker onto it and screw a wing nut onto the screw thread thats exposed. It's for the back of my car seat and it's for a bass speaker. take a look at this link, it's just a rough mock up. thanks here's the link: http://www.creativetribe.co.uk/screwimage.jpg
So your going to tap the bracket for it to screw into? Yo could just use a piece of studding, locked into the tapped hole with a nut.
not sure I know what you mean by bracket? what bracket? studding? sorry? I was thinking I could simply drill a hole and have a self tapping screw/bolt? Basically I need three of these so that I can have a kind of quick release system for my boot when I need the space, hence why I thought of the wing nut idea, when I need the room I can unscrew the wing nuts and pull the sub out. See this image, the three holes that slot over the three screws/bolt type idea I have, then screw the wing nuts tight.: http://www.creativetribe.co.uk/sub.jpg I was just wondering if there's something out there in existence already that might work for me or maybe a combination of things, wingnut and double ended
Studding is a continuously threaded rod, available in 1metre lengths or longer. What are you planning on screwing the stud/screw into?? Something like this...? http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=17878&ts=38632
That looks ideal, so its 40mm in length but whats M4? Sorry! I'll need to screw into the back of my car seats in the boot, that's where the sub woofer speaker will sit. I suppose I could drill the three holes and then sscrwe this straight in? I'll then need to find three wing nuts to screw onto the other end. M4 size, whatever that is?
SF wingnuts only go down to M5, and its a tenner for a hundred and you want three, go to a hardware shop, probably better at M6, M4 is very small, actually 4mm in fact external diameter of the stud.
If you already have the speakers, measure the diameter of the fixing holes. use which ever size will fit the speaker best. As for using thoose screw thingys or studding, its difficult to say without seeing the back of your seat! M4/M5 etc refers to the diameter of the screw/bolt. And SF.....well take a guess... Screw Fix maybe??
heeelllooo the count lateral thinking here i dont know the size of the speaker or wether they are facing forward or backwards why not get a piece of 12mm ply slightly bigger than the speaker drill the three holes in the relivant position then countersink the the back to accept the head of a bolt[make shure the countersink is 1mm smaller than the head so you have to tap them in them simply secure with appropriate screws to the seat back you should now have three bolts sticking out for your speaker washers [essential]and wing nuts big all
That machine screw shown in the picture would have to go into a threaded piece of metal. This would need tapping with the correct tap for the size of thread.
Here's a better idea then. Panhead machine screw and 2 nuts. Get some(as many as you need) machine screws the right length and gauge(eg. m3 = 3mm thick thread/m3 nut to match) and twice as many nuts (one either side of the speaker fixing hole) screw to the correct length protruding and use the 2 nuts to tighten in that position on your speaker. Make 2 keyholes for each screwhead in your seat, so the head goes through a circular hole and drops down into a slot (as in keyhole). No need for undoing or doing up every time, just lift up and take away. Have I explained that well ? Will that work ? Handyandy - really
Self tapping screws can only go into thin sheet metal like car bodies. A proper tap cuts a thread in thicker metals. Look at any nut and you will see a thread inside that was made with a tap of the appropriate thread pattern. It could be BA, Whitworth, BSF, ANF, ANC, UNF, UNC, BSP, unified below 1/4", ISO metric fine or metric course plus a load of other thread types. Most these days are metric (yuck) although BSW (Whitworth) is still used as it was the original accurately cut screw thread which was repeatable. A product of British inventiveness. Sam Whitworths 55° thread is still stronger than all the 60° threads that all others produced from his original lead screw.
One the subject of screw threads, I have just decided to raise the seat of my computer chair by adding packers and longer screws. After 34 years since metrication you would have thought the screws were a metric size. A quick check with a rule showed them to be 6mm with approx 1mm threads which would be right for an ISO metric course screw They wouldnt fit in a 6mm nut though so I measured them accurately. 6.35mm (1/4")dia with 20 TPI (teeth per inch) As both 1/4" BSW (Whitworth) and UNC have the same diameter and TPI I now have to check whether they are 55° or 60° pitch angles. I would guess at UNC as a great deal of things are made in the far east whoes biggest market is USA who developed the UNC & UNF threads. So long as Americans insist on using our old Imperial measures it will continue to be used around the world.