Looking For Some Advice On Nailing Cladding On Workshop/ Shed

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by AdeDaniel, Sep 27, 2017.

  1. AdeDaniel

    AdeDaniel New Member

    Hi, I've built a shed to act as a workshop. It's roughly 4 meters long on each side. A double pent affair, carcass built with CLS timber and a roof of 0.7mm galvanised steel/ box section PVC coated factory cladding.

    Please could I get some advice on cladding this thing?

    I have bought 25mm tanalised V-match (tongue & groove) for the cladding. Now I'm about to nail it all up and I have a couple of questions on things that I'm not sure about.

    Firstly - I purchased a Draper pneumatic nail gun/ stapler which fires 18 gauge brads. I chose 50mm which seems ample in length. I didn't realise just how thin they are. I've done one side as an experiment, doing 'the secret nailing' technique (where you place the nails down at an angle through the tongue). Looking around the internet, I'm getting the impression that much thicker nails are to be used (rink-shank annular is mentioned a lot). What I have done, by firing in three brads per upright support, seems very strong and rigid so far. The V-match locks together nicely but now I'm feeling a bit nervous and wanted to see if this seems acceptable to you guys in the trade. Could this store up problems for the future or do you think it will be alright? I bought the brad gun in the heat of the moment - I hope I haven't made a terrible mistake. My budget won't stretch to a bigger gauge nail gun and so far, this is working really well for me.

    Secondly - how important is this 2mm 'expansion gap' that is supposed to be between the boards? I have seen conflicting information on the internet, with some pages prescribing it, while another asserts that expansion is so minimal that this gap is totally unnecessary. So naturally, I'm a bit confused. So asking for a 'second opinion' here, if you would be so kind.

    I have only just discovered the term 'expansion gap'. I have been building sheds for years using salvaged timbers and doors, etc, with hand tools but this is the first time I have gone to the expense of new, specialised materials. I have pressed the timbers together and they fit perfectly level each time. The tongue and groove is not very deep so cannot imagine this fitting together so well if I had to create such a gap. If I can possibly leave it at that, I will be very happy but not if it could store up problems of boards warping or bending outwards over time.

    As mentioned, the cladding is tanalised, which means most of the water has been removed and a treatment forced in to replace it. Thus, I'm hoping that this gaurds well against expansion (if applicable).

    Any advice would be most gratefully recieved. Thank you.
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2017
  2. AdeDaniel

    AdeDaniel New Member

    Update - might just have answered my own question - re: expansion gap. I just held up two pieces of sample together and aiming it at the white screen of the computer, I can actually see a gap running down, which I estimate would be plenty (if it even occurred). So it does look as though the manufacturer has incorporated this into the design of the profile. Which might be useful to know, if anyone else has this question.

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