Macerator Woes

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Bilge Water, Feb 12, 2020.

  1. Bilge Water

    Bilge Water New Member

    Hello Plumbing!

    My macerator - a Turboflush P - isn't kicking in unless I give it a whack on the side.

    If I remove the pressure switch tube and blow into it, it won't engage unless I give it a whack.

    If I remove the pressure switch tube and don't blow into it and give it a whack, it doesn't do anything. (I'm assuming this would suggest that the pressure switch is functioning correctly.)

    If I turn it off and then on, it performs a brief spin.

    Any ideas?....

    Thanks in advance, everyone.
     
  2. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Well-Known Member

    I assume the pressure switch is connected to the bottom of the macerator and responds to the water pressure as the unit fills up. My guess is that the short piece of pipe that enters the macerator is blocked and needs cleaning out with a stiff wire.
     
  3. just pumps

    just pumps Well-Known Member

    Pressure switch is part of the circuit board, blow down the tube towards the circuit board and if motor fails to run then you need new board.
    If water level in pan is high and reduces slowly with the motor running then tank is full of paper and waste matter.
    Short run after turning power off and on is only the reset mode.
    Come back if I've missed anything
     
  4. Bilge Water

    Bilge Water New Member

    Thanks for the replies.

    When I disconnected, I blew towards the PCB and nothing happened. Whilst blowing, if I give the unit a nudge, it kicks in.

    If I don't blow towards the PCB and give the unit a nudge, nothing happens.

    I'd put my meter on it and do the same but can't seem to find my croc clips.

    It would appear that the switch is functioning correctly.

    With a full unit, however, the motor isn't engaging unless I give it a whack.
     
  5. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Well-Known Member

    Before you go to the expense of a board replacement, take a photo of the connections and take it out so you can have a good look at it in good light. You are looking for loose soldered connections especially around any resistors that get hot. If the fault was truly electronic, a bang would not make it work, your fault appears to be a loose or badly soldered connection or a relay contact bunt.
     
  6. Bilge Water

    Bilge Water New Member

    Thanks Bob!

    I did briefly inspect the board and didn't notice any trauma but will give it a proper component test throughout the circuit. Photos to follow tomorrow AM.

    Your help is much appreciated (the unit is installed in a hard to access wall cavity and I'm dreading limbering up if I need to completely remove and replace).

    Kind Regards,

    Simon
     
  7. just pumps

    just pumps Well-Known Member

    The circuit boards on this model always have a blackened area from heat.
    (+15yrs experience).
     
  8. Bilge Water

    Bilge Water New Member

    Solved.

    Thanks Bob and Just-Pumps for the advice.

    Components on PCB were fine and motor wasn't audibly struggling so I sought out a loose connection and discovered that the terminals on the

    Evidently, by giving it a good thump, it was jolting a brief connection to the sooted over spade terminal and, thus, kick-starting the motor.

    Quick snip and re-crimp, we're all good.

    Every day is a school day...
     

    Attached Files:

    just pumps likes this.
  9. Bilge Water

    Bilge Water New Member

     

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