Hi all I have some spare mdf T and g look panelling 6mm . And mdf board 18 I’m hoping to face the mdf with Panel look 6mm. I have gorilla glue is it just clamp together? I haven’t glued mdf before so any advice would be great.
Glue the MDF as you would any timber and clamp As instructions with the G Glue tells you, dampen one face of timber to help activate the foaming process (if its the PU type your using) And don't be tempted to clear away any excess foam until totally dried, as it gets incredibly messy. Once dried, clean up is a breeze ! If door fits inside frame, then these hinges work well and screw to inside face of mdf, as you know, can't get a good fix by screwing into edge of mdf say with a regular flush or butt hinge; https://www.diy.com/departments/zinc-plated-metal-flush-door-hinge-l-50mm-pack-of-2/227938_BQ.prd If door is face fitting, like many kitchen cupboard doors, then use concealed hinges, can't beat them for adjustment; https://www.screwfix.com/p/nickel-soft-close-clip-on-concealed-hinges-35mm-2-pack/10071
I wouldn't use Pu glue to joint to boards back to back especially if one is quite thin. Just use an ordinary PVA wood glue (or gorilla wood glue) applied with a roller to both surfaces and then leave them laying flat with even pressure applied across the surface somehow - boards and weights (tool boxes, plasterer's wallets, that sort of thing) A foaming/expanding Pu glue like ordinary gorilla glue could distort the thinner panel.
Thankyou Dave appreciate it. im not to keen on the flush door hinges but with the concealed kitchen type, is there a cutter drill bit for them that won’t go through my door lol
Agreed, the flush type hinges are generally poorly made and basic and rely on screwing into edge of door, ok with solid timber or at least a batten frame but the link I posted, are for the cranked type, so screws into face of mdf (inside of door) As for cutting out the hole for a concealed hinge cup, common size is 35mm, either called a hinge cutter or Forstner Bit; https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-tct-hinge-cutter-35mm/4977v No problem with cutting out into 18mm MDF, just cut so drill bit is flush with face of MDF - the bit I have at least, I haven't got the one I posted in link Either measure out freehand for hinges or can buy a really chip jig online which works - once you understand how to use it as no instructions so look on YouTube These jigs come either on they're own or with a cutting bit, probably not best quality but for a one off job and one door, will probably do https://www.joom.com/en/products/5e9979531436d40101f1c26e
Great cheers Dave appreciate the links too. So how far down would you measure to set it. Like with a normally door being 6inch town 9inch up. Is there a preferred measurement? also how do you line them up on the lining then? I’ve never seen that done
Look at the jig on the link I sent you (cheaper on Amazon I think) Can buy jig alone or with a 35mm cutter No instructions came with mine but tutorial on YouTube, this blue jig is easy to find online so easy to find a video on how to use Other jigs also available, I just went with this blue one and used twice and works and simple to use Used hinge cutter in an 18v Dewalt combi on 18mm mdf and its fine, just keep checking depth your cutting and clean out mdf fluff as can block cutter 18mm MDF is fairly heavy, even as a simple door and your adding cladding as well, but we don’t know the size of the door so can’t say how many hinges Also the concealed hinges vary in quality, construction and price, some are flimsy whilst better quality ones are rock solid Depends though how your hanging the door/s - if they’re sitting inside the frame or sitting in front of the frame (like most kitchen unit doors) ?
Regular butt hinges work just fine and are the simplest and cheapest option. As you're using MDF you would want to glue and pin a softwood lipping on the hinge side of the door at least 1/2 inch thick and plane it flush, then hang the door as you would normally. If the door is triangular shaped and the hinges on the long edge then you'll need to plane a bevel/chamfer on the top edge closing side in order for the door to close properly.
do my nail gun smallest pins are 32mm would that be ok? Don’t think you can get any small pins for the mdf. I might be able to lip The 18mm then face it with the mdf 6mm So not seen a would it not stand out. Is the lipping strength for hinges etc
Yeah fine, it's the glue that does the work. Yes it's for strength as if you were to screw into the edge of MDF without a lipping, the screw will part the layers and fall out sooner than later.
To keep things easy, and to avoid having to lip the door, I suggested the cranked flush hinges in #3 Unlike regular cranked hinges that screw into edge of MDF and don’t hold, these screw through the rear face to give a decent ‘bite into the mdf They work well, used them myself for this exact job - understairs 18mm MDF door, around 1800mm high so fairly heavy Just more straightforward but obviously up to you
Great thankyou! I’ve actually done a job years ago and they did fall out there is no bite. I think I might actually do this as I have door Stop lying around. no table saw to trim down to 18mm .
The link doesn’t actually say ‘cranked’ but they are ! Only other thing to point out (if you’ve not seen these before) is that you need more a door lining than a frame to fix the frame side of hinge to - you can see the rectangular frame side plate Ok if you have a door lining but if just a simple 18mm deep frame, then need some timber behind hinge positions to give a fixing point Not seen these exact hinges at SF but they sell a double cranked hinge but not used these myself Could possibly use a decorative butt hinge and face fix to door and frame but again, depends how the door is sitting to frame ? Is the door ‘inset’ or ‘overlay’ ? That will also play a part in hinge choice
You don't need a table saw , just glue and pin the doorstop on flush with one edge of the door, then either plane the bulk down with a power planer or rip it down close to the edge with a handsaw, then finish it off smooth with a block or smoothing plane.