Mitre Saw Suggestions

Discussion in 'Tool Talk' started by Lijong Tao, May 12, 2019.

  1. Lijong Tao

    Lijong Tao Member


    I'm looking for some suggestions for mitre saws. I am trying to get into woodworking and will be making arbors, bird tables and I've been given some sleepers too that I wish to turn into seats. (see photo)

    I need the saw to only cut to a certain depth and move forward and backward so I can take thin pieces out of the wood for about 6 inches so I can fit the feet into it once chiseled out (if that makes sense) I don't know what cut this is called but need to control the depth of cut along the sliding part.

    Apologies for being vague. I've attached a photo. I cannot do this by hand and my budget is around £500. I won't be cutting metal but may want that option for the future.

    Thank you Li Inkeddownload_LI.jpg
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Last edited: May 12, 2019
  3. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    That’s a through housing joint. You want a saw with the ability to ‘Trench cut.’
    dobbie likes this.
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Bosch Professional GCM 8 SJL does excellent adjustable depth trench cuts.:)
  5. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    For £500 you have an enormous choice - so go for teh top end brands and avoid any budget ranges.

    TO get that depth of cut - you may well need a 10"/250mm or 12"/300mm blade. I use an Electra=Beckum which is part of Maetabo. Coose one which angles to left and right as well as having a fully tiltable blade. You may not need it initially but the time will come.

    The KGS315 Plus comes in under your budget with a 315mm blade or the KGS305 is around £250-280 Add a Metabo stand too, which, given the size of timber you will be working with, will be very useful.
  6. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    It’s also worth mentioning that all of the operations required in the original post can easily be done with a circular saw (corded or cordless) and an aluminium speed square, for significantly cheaper and more flexible uses than spending £500 on a mitre saw.
  7. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    when trenching you can loose perhaps 40-55mm from the length off cut at the bottom off the trench as the curve off the blade comes into play leaving you with a ski jump shape at one or both ends off the trench
  8. sospan

    sospan Well-Known Member

    The problem you will have with most of the mitre saws can cut 200 to 300mm this for chopping function to make a consistent depth rebate cut you will need a saw with a long travel. The older style overhead radial arms saw would be good but can be quite dangerous.

    The other option would be to cut them on a table saw using a cross cut sled but you would have to remove the riving knife and blade cover - even more dangerous.

    The better option would be buy a medium price mitre saw and a good quality router. You could then make up a jig for the router to plough out the rebates.

    The other thing to look out for is a good quality bandsaw with deep cutting throat.

    If your thinking about making garden items commercially rather than for fun, it may look attractive but the market is quite saturated and the item prices are going down and down. Even Aldi were doing their version of stylish planters which normally retail for £70+ for £14.99. The quality won't be so good but many people aren't interested in quality in anymore
    KIAB likes this.
  9. ajohn

    ajohn Active Member

    I don't use one that often and bought a B&Q power pro type one a long time ago. It's been ok but has limitations. I need to do some precise mitre work so went in the Evolution direction not being aware that they offer 2 ranges, diy and pro so finished up with DIY. Probably would have done anyway. It has the right things, mainly stops that can be set for 90 and 45 degree cuts but the moving part of the blade guard has a ridiculously strong spring behind it and hits the work at a pretty stupid angle. ;) They seem to have taken care of this on the pro model but I would suggest looking at any mitre saw you buy carefully for this sort of thing especially that the saw angle stops can be adjusted. The fence on all of them is likely to need adjusting to give 90 degree cross cuts and the angle stops adjusting.

    The Evolution mitre saws have a depth of cut stop but beware that the guide bars on all of them are not that stiff so hand pressure can adjust the depth of cut. Some will be better than others. Larger work needs a stand to go with them. Evolution do one. It surprised me just how good it is and it looks like any saw could be mounted on it. Another reason for me choosing Evolution that applies to many makes is weight. I picked one that is capable of what I am likely to want to do rather than the biggest available. Your sleepers need considering for that and a stand if you want to support them with lots sticking out past the end of the machine. Or make some supports on the saw. If you want to trim the ends things can be turned over if the depth stop allows them to work this way but one cut is best. You'll probably find that a laser guide need adjusting as well also that for rather accurately placed cut positioned some what off where you want the cut to be. They don't completely get round marking out, position the cut via the blade and then making it.

    As some one mentioned the "seats" could be made easily with a circular saw. Personally as I don't do that sort of thing often I would clamp something across the timber that was wider and use that as the guide. :) A lot wider, helps keep the start and end of the cut clean. Anything with a straight edge and enough width to keep the saw clear of any clamps. I'm not skilled with a hand saw but suspect that is how I would joint a bench like that. Just mark out and keep to the lines and let the saw do the work.

    The problem is no saw is ideal for all types of work. Mitre saws are at the best cross cutting and cutting mitres. Other than making the benches a table saw offers a lot more flexibility and there are ways that the bench joints could be cut on one but how isn't immediately obvious. A radial arm saw can do all with a bit of thought but big heavy and a lot more expensive.

    Last edited: May 12, 2019
  10. ajohn

    ajohn Active Member

    I don't get some of the "safety" features on some power tools. Rapid stop - not much use if an on off switch and some one manages to part cut through a finger or what ever. Guards on table saws help if some one happens to fall on one while it's running. Main thing guards can do is aid dust extraction. Eye protection is best done with safety glasses or full face shields depending on what's being used, even protective clothing may be needed. Then compare all such things with an angle grinder etc - well don't use one going on the "precautions" on other pieces of equipment.

    Rapid stop is easy on the usual brushed or brushless tool, not so easy on AC motors. One type can make enough noise to cause ear damage. Vibration can be an issue too. The other much quieter. Those can be stopped quickly as well.

    I don't know what goes on in commercial woodworking shops. I do on the smaller metal working side - health and safety comes in and cuts a belt to prevent the use of the machine not bearing in mind that actual use of the machine needs a lot of care any way. Some machines are dangerous full stop and nothing can be done about it. Only the ones that can dubiously be made safer get any attention.

  11. ajohn

    ajohn Active Member

    I wouldn't say the man's an idiot - just making a valid point perhaps pushing one aspect too far. Making benches as shown needs more tools than a saw anyway. It's had other work done to it not just that style of joint.

    Actually you sound like a troll to me hoping to start some sort of argument or trying to be an irritant.

  12. Lijong Tao

    Lijong Tao Member

    Thank you all for the advice. I will look into both table and circular saws. For me, and the space I have perhaps the circular saw would suit me better but if I do get a shed the table saw would be better. Food for thought all the same.

    Agaim, thanks a lot. I appreciate it.
  13. ajohn

    ajohn Active Member

    The bench you have shown looks to have had the corners routed round to me after the sleeper has been planed so for the same thing you would need more gear.

    Cheapest way of planing easily is a thickenesser. Electric hand planes can tend to be a bit uncontrollable - ok for some one that can use a manual hand plane. Routing of that sort could be done with many routers, just needs a bearing guided round over cutter. Trying to route the slots in a sleeper would need something fairly powerful due to the depth and some sort of jig so a 1/2" router. Jigs can be made out of MDF. Routers can also be mounted on that if a larger base is needed - might be in this case.

    Makes a mess so a dust extractor is a good idea - healthier too.

    Some table saws are portable but looking at Amazon reviews all is not well with them. They keep using cheaper and cheaper parts - sometimes plastic when metal is needed. One of the things to look for on those is that the fence can be clamped at both ends. :) The other ones look nice and sound great but they need to be made far more rigidly than they are. It's also a good idea to see the words induction motor. This one doesn't but might interest you

    Can't comment on it but they have a decent name for maybe higher end diy. It's been replaced though so may not be available. They now offer a sort of stand that a saw or router table can be dropped into. I bought the router table to use in a home made stand but sent it back for several reasons. That leaves the problem that the stand and saw have to be bought and may never be fitted with anything else -that makes it expensive really. It's also pretty heavy.

    The video may be of use - shows how to get around the limitations of a table saw and the saw itself looks very sensible and is well within your budget. Not sure about how easy it is to obtain the various supports it shows. For what you are aiming to do with sleepers you would need some extra support. It does have a decent sized table. Pressed steel but if you bought one that was cast especially iron it may well not be flat.

    Bird tables etc - maybe pre planed iroko if you want them to last. Still treat it though. Iroko is one of the cheaper hardwoods that would be suitable. Or any old wood treated with preservative.

  14. ajohn

    ajohn Active Member

    LOL Whoops - that particular saw needs to be fitted with a table saw. I'm tempted actually as it's better than a rather old small table saw I have and having bought a plunge saw have something suitable to put in it.


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