Mounting IKEA METOD Wall cabinet

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Alan Farrow, Nov 6, 2018.

  1. Alan Farrow

    Alan Farrow New Member

    I'm mounting two 800mm x 800mm METOD kitchen cabinets, and need some advice on fixings.

    I've drilled the holes through layer of plaster and into what may be breeze blocks ( grey dust). I've drilled with 8mm drill bit so I could use a 50mm wall plug and 650mm x 5mm countersunk screw.
    Having attached them to the wall I'm doubting whether this is strong enough to hold them onc they have the doors on etc.

    I'm not using a suspension rail but using the screws directly to hang them. They are also countersunk screws although IKEA recommend using flat head to hold them in place. Is this OK or is there a better type of fixing to use?
    Thank you
  2. furious_customer

    furious_customer Active Member

    So long as the breeze blocks were solid when you drilled into them then these fixings sound good to me.

    As long as there is no risk of the countersunk head slipping through the fixing plate then I would say it's ok - not the best cosmetically, but I am guessing that there is a plastic cover for them?
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018
    Alan Farrow likes this.
  3. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    What size screws? They must make good coat hook on the other side!

    What plugs did you use? Standard S-type or a much better Fischer SX or UX ?
    chippie244 likes this.
  4. Alan Farrow

    Alan Farrow New Member

    Hi, the screws were 65mm x 10mm . The plugs were grey 50mm x 10mm musch similar to theses:

    However, bought them in ALDI. Says they are for solid walls.
  5. Alan Farrow

    Alan Farrow New Member

  6. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Basic S-type - although even at that level there are good and bad!

    I would have recommended for 6mm screws or for 5mm.

    Or Duopower in a suitable size
    Alan Farrow likes this.
  7. Alan Farrow

    Alan Farrow New Member

    Hi, many thanks for your reply. I like the look of the fischer 10 x 60mm plugs . Will get them tomorrow and drill out the ones i've inserted in the wall. Thanks for your suggestions here.
    As for the screws, I assume the ones I have similar to these are suitable?

  8. chippie244

    chippie244 Well-Known Member

    Don't drill out the ones that you have already fitted, you will just make the hole bigger, stick with what you have.
    Alan Farrow and ramseyman like this.
  9. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    As Chippie says - don't drill the out, you could make it worse. You might want to increase the screw size though - 10mm plugs are too big for 5mm screws, 6 or 8 mm should be used.
    Alan Farrow likes this.
  10. Alan Farrow

    Alan Farrow New Member

    HI, thanks. I might just move the position of the cabinets over a few inches as I think the fischer plugs might be better.
  11. Alan Farrow

    Alan Farrow New Member

  12. ajohn

    ajohn Active Member

    I found some screws at Screwfix that were round head just as the ones Ikea show being used in the instructions and have used those with rawplugs. Had to buy rather a lot of them though. I don't think countersunk headed screws are really suitable.

    That was with just one wall cabinet though over a sink area. I need to do a run and a rail can have problems then. In my case checking via a straight edge there is around a 5mm deep bow in the wall. The rail isn't such a good idea when walls are like that. The rail could just be mounted bent but what about the wall at the bottom of the cabinets where they rest on the wall, it could be out of line with the wall where the rail is mounted. The cabinets may not line up neatly if they are just hung off the rail and left dangling.

    Some people get round this by not using the rail and using brackets instead. I've done that for various reason on the under sink units that has draws and a door over a washing machine - the Ikea one. The rail can be used for cabinets as well. I used these brackets

    These might also be suitable

    It's possible to position the cabinet, adjust it etc and then spot through the brackets with a wood drill, the type with a short sharp spur on the end and then fix with the screws Ikea supply. You would need to check the size against the holes Ikea use but from memory it's 6mm.

    The same thing can be done with a run of wall cabinets but I intend to use the rail on those as using brackets will be more difficult. Basically a trial fit without bending the rail via tightening it right down with the fixing screws and then taking it from there. I may pack the rail out with what is effectively plaster but easy to use - easy-fill. Depends on how it goes. Same at the base of the wall cabinets where they rest on the wall. Not sure what I will do there but both areas have an advantage - can't be seen when the cabinets are in place. I believe some just fasten cabinets together to get them aligned but my wife tends to fill any sort of cabinet completely so feel that something a bit better than that is needed. The floor cabinets will almost certainly be retained with brackets as it's quick and easy to do.

    One thing I have already found with Ikea floor mounted cabinets is to attach the bits that make up the levelling jacks to each other with a bit of glue. They are fine for support and adjustment but tend to come apart when the cabinet is moved around.

    Where I have used the brackets I've fixed them to the wall with hammer fixings. The type that can be undone with a screwdriver. I don't hammer them in though but drive them in with a drill driver. Big advantage over raw plugs is that the holes into the wall can be spotted through the brackets in one go after things have been positioned correctly. Using rawplugs for that will be a bit of a pain. Position, spot through, remove the cabinet enlarge the hole for the raw plugs and then get it all back in again. The sink has been in use for months now without any problems with the cabinet moving despite all of the bottles of this and that my wife has put in the large drawer under the sink. It's jam packed full of them. The drawer itself has sunk down a bit which means I have to make the 2 shallow drawers under that sink by the same amount.

    Hope this helps - now need to see if I can have some suggestions about getting round a problem I may have when I get to a U shaped work surface. I had to scribe the back of the short run the sink is in as the wall was too far out but a U wont be so simple.

  13. ajohn

    ajohn Active Member

    The screws I used are Quicksilver 10 x 2". They come in boxes of 200. Not sure if screwfix or toolstation.

    I've hung lots of heavy stuff using 2" screws with more projecting than when they are used on the rails so am pretty confident about them. I angle them upwards a tiny touch. If worried maybe the same can be bought at a longer length.

  14. Gurammu

    Gurammu New Member

    Are there instructions on the Internet?

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