Need help with floorboard squeak removal

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Saru, Jan 16, 2018.

  1. Saru

    Saru New Member

    Hi,

    I'm about to start removing the squeaks from my floorboards, but I've got a few questions maybe you can help me with?

    I plan to remove the floorboards and put "Norton CST joist tape" on the joists, then I'm going to screw the floorboards (18x90mm) using 4x50mm screws, with a clear shank at the top.

    - how distant apart should the screws be? the joists are every ~35cm - should I put a screw for each board and each joist (every 9 cm across joists and every 35cm across floorboards)? Or is there a "minimal distance between screws" rule that I should follow?

    - what diameter would you recommend for the drill bits for pilot and clearance? I'm thinking 3.5mm for pilot and 4.1mm for clearance - is this ok? Also, I'm planning to get some HSS drill bits as wood ones only come in full 1mm intervals

    - can I reuse the old nail holes?

    - as the tape will raise the floor a bit, I think I'll also need to raise the skirtings?

    - what would you recommend to re-attach the skirting boards with? so far I found that glue is the best option and easier to remove than screws (assuming the heads are painted over)?


    Thanks!
     
  2. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I use an impact driver and fit 2 screw's at every joist. I only use a pilot drill at the ends of floor boards to prevent splitting.

    You maybe 'over thinking' the job.
     
    Dr Bodgit likes this.
  3. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    As CGN says, I use 5mm x 50mm screws, screw'em down good and no squeaks.
     
  4. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    It seems an awful lot of work to lift them and then put them back down. The chances are that you will damage quite a few boards as they get prised up.

    as the others have said, just screw them down but check there are no pipes or electric cables neat where you are screwing.
     
  5. Saru

    Saru New Member

    I had removed a few boards without much difficulty for test.. They are attached with big floor brads that so far have been easy to pull out..

    Another reason for wanting to go all the way is that the heating pipes under are not insulated and make noise rubbing on the joists as they expand and contract - so I'd insulate them as well in the same go.

    The main fears I have are about skirting boards as I have no idea how they are attached.. Have seen screws on some but not all of them.
     
  6. Saru

    Saru New Member

    But yeah maybe I should at least skip drilling the clearance holes.. Have never done that before just read that it's recommended. These screws even say they make their own countersink...
     
  7. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    and good quality screws are self drilling as well as self countersinking.
     
    Saru likes this.
  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    I have this issue too, my plumber suggested simply to lay a piece of hair felt insulation between the pipe and joist then clip the pipes every other joist using nail in clips

    [​IMG]
     
    Saru likes this.
  9. Saru

    Saru New Member

    I was planning foam insulation with aluminium tape on the foam (all sides), but felt would also work.. Maybe even better?

    I'll add clips to the shopping list too, thanks :)
     
  10. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Foam insulation is way too deep to put between pipes and joists, or on pipes that are up close against floor boards.
     
  11. Saru

    Saru New Member

    Hmm you are right.. It would lift the pipes by at least 13mm.. Thanks, I'll check the hair felt instead
     
  12. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

  13. sospan

    sospan Screwfix Select

    Why not just use standard pipe insulation sleeves ?

    They can be much easier to fit than trying to wrap that felt around the pipes. If you have two pipes close together, just trim the second sleeve down.
     
  14. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    'cos the sleeving is way too thick. A length of hair felt is simply laid underneath the pipe to give it some cushioning from the joist.
     
  15. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    The felt sold at Wickes is a polythene 'tube' with hair felt stuck to it. Great in some situations particularly for new work where you can slide it over the pipe but you would have to slice down every length you wanted to install. It would be a pita frankly. I would use what Sospan suggests for the insulation but use a thin piece under the pipe to stop any noise.
     
  16. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    No No Nooooo...just use a piece of that insulation 'tube' placed under the pipe, separates it from the joist. That's it.
     
  17. Saru

    Saru New Member

    Hmm. What if I slice it, put it on the pipes and join the sides with a stapler? I'd need a larger one - 22mm for 15mm pipe but I think it should be relatively easy..
     
  18. Saru

    Saru New Member

  19. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Oh gawd, its really really easy. The felt pipe sleeving suits 15mm and 22mm pipe and can be placed over pipe (pipe through the sleeve) if you want to insulate a length of copper pipe. But to prevent squeaks etc just cut a wee length (about 10 cm) and place it between pipe and joist. No slicing, no staples. Nowt :oops:
     
    Jord86 likes this.
  20. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice