You wrap that around the pipe starting at one end and winding your way along. It's very tedious especially if you don't have the room to get the roll between the pipe and any obstruction.
I simply don't see the need to insulate pipes if they are running under the first floor, as they act as underfloor heating. No heat is "wasted".
that's true. I thought if I insulate them they'd contract slower when heating turns off - thus move slower, but then when the heating turns on they'd heat faster so it's the reverse of the same problem. I'll try to wrap the pipes under the ground floor though, and only do that under the first floor if it seems really easy at the time - but from your comments it seems that I'll just push some of it between the pipes and the joists and call it done Thanks!
Yep been there before, on my knees wrapping this around pipes and trying to stop it unravelling - eventually put the stuff in the bin . The stuff from Wickes is like someone has used sellotape to get fluff off a jumper and rolled it up If you want to stop the pipes rubbing cardboard or polystyrene works well
So.. after having been reading forums for a week, and asking questions in here, I think I finally have a list of needed items.. If anyone would like to review - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...4UGTKfFce4UHrWJL5PkDVv0hLue2mUY4Ghkt/pubhtml# Does anything strike out as utterly insane? (I can drill and put screws in, but this is the first time I'm about to undertake a task of this size)
Most of it to be honest - whilst it is laudable to have a go at things yourself, a lot of this is way over the top. it may be cheaper and quicker to get someone in to do it for you.
Probably you're right, but it would help me more if you could be a bit more specific any of those to remove completely? or reduce in quantity / replace? The only thing I really don't want - to make things worse.. other than that I'll take as a learning experience. (And thanks for the honest answer btw )
One third of your cost is the joist tape which I don't think you'll need. Their website intimates that the squeak is because of movement between board and joist which wouldn't happen if the board was securely fixed down. In my experience the squeaks and creaks generally come from the nails which have either worked very slightly loose or the boards have shrunk/dried around them - usually a combination of the two. This can invariably be cured by punching the existing nails in properly and supplementing with some decent flooring screws although you need to take extreme care not to hit any pipes or cables which may be under the floor. This risk will be minimised if you are lifting the boards and if you are doing that, you would be advised to buy or hire some floorboard clamps and be prepared to fill the resultant gap when you get to the other side of the room. As Sospan says, good on you for having a go and good luck with it.
hehe, I first thought that it would be nice to put something under the floor board/joist connection and then found out that there is such a thing (that tape).. but it seems like no one is actually using such a thing and I should just drop it from the list (especially as the underlay will help with stopping the sound transmission) - thanks! re floorboard clamps - I noticed that some of my current boards (attached image) are a bit bent to sides - as they are quite old (I guess same as the house ) I expect this is natural.. and they already have a small gap between them - would floorboard clamps improve the situation in this case? in the first floor I'm going to put an underlay and carpet, so I guess small gaps shouldn't be a problem.. downstairs - haven't completely decided yet but in longer term I'll probably put additional flooring (boards on top of these boards) so that it looks nicer (and stops the cold coming from the gaps)..
Not putting the tape would also save me from moving the skirting boards.. The part that horrifies me the most although I'm sure it's doable.
Friends parents had put up with a very squeeky floor for 30 years and asked me if I could sort it before fitting laminate. Couple of hours later and a few boxes of screws and voila...silence. They couldn't believe it!
removed tape and skirting board related items (link updated) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...G4UGTKfFce4UHrWJL5PkDVv0hLue2mUY4Ghkt/pubhtml the cost is reduced by almost a half! (and the amount of work needed ) a paranoid question - is it ok for the joists if I put a screw every 9cm apart (every board on every joist)?
The majority of that heat isn't coming through the floor. If there are air bricks that vent the void, most of that heat will escape. I tend to use the cheap stuff from screwfix, and just throw a few cable ties around it, but it does make a notable difference if all pipework goes from uninsulated to insulated. The boiler isn't doing as much work, so you save on gas too.