New Install - Cooker Hood

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by portlanders, Jul 13, 2019.

  1. portlanders

    portlanders New Member

    I wish to have a new cooker hood installed that will come with a plug, so need a single socket installed up high.

    Initial idea was to use a vacant single socket above the worktop, change this to an FCU and spur a socket above or in the wall unit adjacent to where the cooker hood needs to go.

    But i've just read a thread where they talk of spurring a socket off an existing extractor fan isolator, and wanted to check that this was possible - run 1.5mm2 twin and earth from the extractor fan isolator switch to a single gang unswitched socket and plug the cooker hood in to that?

    The extractor fan isolator is on the other side of the room, but I would run trunking up high where wall meets ceiling - there is trunking here already for the fan. The extractor fan is on all the time - it has a trickle mode, and boosts when needed, but is insufficient when cooking.

    It may seem a less pretty option, but i have tiling between worktop and wall unit and would prefer not to disturb these running a spur up from the single socket.

    Thus wondered if the 2nd option is viable and correct to do?

    Thank you

    Attached Files:

  2. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    Sure, no problem doing that bits easier for you.

    PS Your clock is 3 hours slow. :D
    portlanders likes this.
  3. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    Maybe it took a while to get the pictures back from the developers. Now there's a change we've all absorbed - one for the old tech thread...
    portlanders likes this.
  4. portlanders

    portlanders New Member

  5. xednim

    xednim Active Member

    if for the extractor they have used 1,5mm2 + E you can steel power clipping your new cable to the extractor terminal (if enough room for that), and yes you should use either single socket where you can just plug in your hood- plug equipped with 5amps fuse, or connect in junction box with inline fuse
    portlanders likes this.
  6. portlanders

    portlanders New Member

    Just opened up the isolator switch, and it's one of these with a data recording function i.e has a micro-usb port, plus no earth.

    Any options to still wire up to this isolator?

    The existing fan runs on a constant trickle, with a boost when pulling the cord on the isolator..... so it's not an isolator....... I'm confused now.

    Attached Files:

  7. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    That’s not an isolator, it is a transformer.
    It delivers 12v to the trickle fan.

    You could power your new fan from the terminals marked N&L (plus an earth, of course) to your new fan.

    Is the transformer protected by a 3A fuse, somewhere?
    portlanders likes this.
  8. portlanders

    portlanders New Member

    Yes, there is an FCU with a 3A fuse just above the worktop.

    So i would just run 1.0mm2 cable from the N & L to the cooker hood?
  9. Bazza

    Bazza Well-Known Member

    Yes 1.0mm. L, N and EARTH. I hope that the cable that is already connected to the L&N terninals has an earth conductor?
    You'll need to connect that to your new bit of cable.. Although the transformer itself doesnt need an earth, the cable does and your cooker hood (I expect it is metal?) certainly will.
    So make sure there is an earth conductor in the existing wiring and test that it is actually conncetd to earth. Kitchen fitters (and many electricians) aren't the best at doing things properly:rolleyes:
    portlanders likes this.
  10. portlanders

    portlanders New Member

    Yes, checked and it is 3 core flex - earth is stripped back.

    So i'll get a further length of 1.00m 3 core, run that alongside existing cable connecting both cables to L & N terminals and earth in a choc.
    Run both cables in the 16mm trunking with new cable to feed the cooker hood.

    Thanks for your help in confirming Bazza

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