New Room Thermastat and Reciever

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by JamesM86, Nov 30, 2017.

  1. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    Morning;

    Justlooking for a bit of advice on our room thermostat following having a log burner fitted.

    We have a lifestyle lp522 fitted next to the hotwater tank in the airing cupboard in the bathroom which we have programmed times we want heating/hot water; there is also a analog room thermostat fitted in the Lounge. This is causing issues with out new log burner as the lounge is hot so it's not activating the heating upstairs therefore freezing.

    Basically I want to put a wireless thermostat upstair as to heat upstairs and not be too effected by the log burner.

    Can I get a wireless room thermostat to keep upstairs and wire the reciever to where the existing room stat is? Or will the wiring not be compatable?

    Thanks
     
  2. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    Hi James.

    Sorry for the late reply.

    You clearly understand the issue, and your solution is a good one.

    The new wireless stat will consist of a battery-powered 'room stat' and there will then be a mains-powered receiver. The 'stat can be moved around or simply stuck to a wall.

    The receiver could go where the old stat is currently mounted (provided the wiring there is 3-core + earth) or, probably simpler and neater, mounted in the airing cupboard close to the LP522.

    If you look in the airing cupboard, is there a separate 'wiring centre' - a rectangular bow - where all the wires go? If so, that's where I'd wire the receiver to, and I'd then disconnect the wires going to the existing stat and fill in where it is in your sitting room (you can always carry the new stat down in to that room in, say, summer when the stove isn't being used.)

    Wiring is fairly straight-forward and quite DIYable if you are 'competent'.

    While you are at it, consider a wireless Programmable stat instead of just a normal temperature' type. This will do both temps and times.

    Anyhoo, let us know what you have - wiring centre, etc.
     
  3. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    Thanks for your comprehensive reply, definitely confirms things up with me.

    Yes the room stat only has 3 wires so I believe i would need another wire being the perm live to the reciever.

    Yes I have the wiring centre next to the hot water and can see how both the timer and stat are now wired up. I think I will put the reciever in the airing cupboard with everything else to keep it all neat and tidy; and hopefully an almost direct swap th e wires over job.
     
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  4. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    Cool.

    You say the current stat is '3-wire'. Can you expand on this, ideally with a photo?

    It would help to know which terminals these wires go yo, and also the make and model of the existing stat.

    It should then be straight-forward to wire your new received straight in to the wiring centre, effectively replacing where these other stat wires are going.

    And if you decided to go Prog Stat (do you know what they are?), then all you'd have to do is leave the LP522's 'Heating' control on 'ON'.
     
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  5. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    20171204_182932.jpg 20171204_182926.jpg Evening,

    The existing stat is a lifestyle ETS1, i have attsched a picture of the wiring on the stat and one of the wiring center

    So I will basically be replacing the existing wires from the wiring centre that go to the stat and sending them to the reciever aswell as wiring a perm live to it.

    Yes think I might fo a programmable one as it will save going to the cupboard to change times! And i believe the wiring would be the same for this.
     
  6. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    You have the correct wires there, including the perm live. (What's missing, tho', is an earth - but you won't need that for your new 'stat)

    On that old stat, Term 1 is LIVE, Term 2 is SWITCHED LIVE and Term 4 is NEUTRAL. That's all you need.

    By 'wiring centre', I mean the box in the airing cupboard where all the wires go to, including the other ends of the these stat wires. If you ID these three wires inside the WC, then you disconnect them and replace them with wires to your new receiver.

    Take photos, take notes, and even snip the three wires leaving a couple of inches of coloured sleeving there to keep IDing them, and then replace them one by one.

    By the way, what colours are the three wires to your old stat?

    Yes, a prog stat receiver will be wired exactly the same. They are great.
     
  7. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    Fair Enough but as you said I think I will just put the reciever in the airing cupboard and remove the old stat as and when I decorate.

    They are red, black and brown; I believe brown live, red switch live (also known as normally open?) and black being neutral.

    I have tried to add a picture of the wiring center chart but it doesn't allow me as it's too big.

    But I will have a go this weekend and let you know how it all goes; whats the worst that couild happen!!!
     
  8. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    Here is the diagram for the wiring center
    20171204_205624.jpg

    Red wire to 3
    Black to 2
    Brown goes to a lego connector and blue wire, which I assume is the perm live
     
  9. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    Hmmmmm...

    Yes, I was meaning to fit the receiver in the airing cupboard close to that wiring centre.

    But wait until you get your new receiver and then we'll guide you on the wiring.

    But, essentially, the new receiver will require a LIVE and NEUTRAL to power it, and it'll then have a COM and a NO to actually operate the boiler. (The COM and NO might be called something else.)

    You will need to ID a LIVE and a NEUTRAL in that wiring centre to provide power for the new receiver - is part of that photo cut off? Could you take a wider shot? (Or do you know the model of wiring centre?)
     
  10. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    rps20171204_215834.jpg rps20171204_214720.jpg
    That is the full wiring center. The white cable on the far left going in is the only one I can't trace where it goes to. So i guess this is to the boiler; the rest go to the pump, actuator, hot water tank, immersion timer, room stat and programmer.

    But I'll get the new stat/reciever and have a play!
     
  11. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    You will likely have a fused switch which supplies the power to the whole caboodle. Can you tell me where the L, N and E from that go?
     
  12. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    There is one above the wiring centre but this appears in a chain to the immersion heater; and if I turn this switch off the timer nor anything else turns off.

    There is one which turns the boiler off but it again doesnt turn the timer ofd. I cant see where this goes as its in a cupboard downstaira as the house has been extended a few times.

    1 thing with programmable stat, this wouldn't effect my timings for hot water would it? That would still run off the original timer?
     
  13. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    Are you sure is doesn't turn the timer off? Are you sure it isn't continuing to run on a built in battery?

    If it really doesn't get killed by that switch, then your wiring doesn't conform to current (or anywhere recent) regs. Safety dictates that EVERYTHING to do with the system - timers, pumps, boiler, valves, stats etc - should all have one single double-pole isolating point.

    Anyhoo, no your hot timings will remain controlled by your LP.

    Can you trace the power supply from that switch to the wiring centre - is it run on the surface?
     
  14. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    I have checked the fused switch in the airing cupboard and it does turn the heating off but the timer stays on so suspect as you said it runs on a battery. It was just me being stupid!

    So I have ordered a wireless meter so I will take a cable from the fused switch, L and N and connect them to the reciever in the L and N sockets.

    Would I then connect CALL or COM to the N/O on the receiver? And do I link the COM on the reciever to the live?

    Here is a diagram of the recievers wiring
    Screenshot_20171206-120616.jpg
     
  15. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    Don't assume that the programmer is simply running on a battery - you really need to confirm (but I hope that is the case).

    Trace the cable going from the prog to the wiring centre and check that it gets its L and N from there too.

    (What type of motorised valve do you have, if any? I notice a HW 'OFF' terminal isn't in that wiring centre which I'd expect).

    Anyhoo, you then need to remove each wire from that wiring centre that currently goes to the old room stat. You should ID and note down each wire - and then let us know what they are and where they go...

    Finally, to connect the receiver, you need a L and N - which you should take from the wiring centre and NOT direct from the fused switch - keep things neat and sensible. Finally you take the 'COM' and 'NO' of your receiver to 'COM' and 'CALL' (3 and 2) on your wiring centre. That 'should' work, and no links 'should' be required - but I am not fully certain that your system is 'conventional'.
     
  16. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    I have fitted the reciever and it calls for boiler and pump to be turned on no issues, but the pump doesn't turn off at all.

    It is corrwctly wored as you mentioned above but I cant work out why the pump isn't turning off. The stat is not calling for heat and the boiler is not on but the pump co tinues to run

    Any ideas?
     
  17. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    12 and 13 is the boiler and pump Lives - ie the ones that in theory turn them on when requested.

    However, from your photo, there's only one wire connected - the yellow to 12. Any idea where this is going?

    There's a chance the pump is directly controlled by the boiler has has an 'over-run' feature so's it keeps on going until it's shifted the hot water inside it.

    Are you sure the pump doesn't stop after, ooh, 10 minutes? A half hour?
     
  18. JamesM86

    JamesM86 New Member

    Opppps it appears my patience ran out a long while ago and didnt give it enough time to shut off!!!

    It is working all well and good.

    Thans for your help, really appreciated
     

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