newbie - hot water radiator heat problems

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by Debi _hate_water, Nov 11, 2003.

  1. Debi _hate_water

    Debi _hate_water New Member

    Hope someone will have an idea for this:
    I bought (1947) house has gas powered hot water cast-iron radiator heat. This is a system that has an expansion tank in the basement and each radiator has a blees valve except 1. This one has had the bleed valve torn, stripped damaged and there is no way to remove the air, along with that the handle that opens and closes the inflow valve is stripped too. That radiator is warm on the intake and outflo pipes but nothing above the first inch or so. And here is the other problem (all of the radiators mentioned are on the third floor all the others in the house are fine and when bled release a small amount of air and then hot water). Back to the second problen 2 radiators not inline with each other, there are 2 others between the two that work fine. The 2 radiators when I went to bleed them I got air...lots of it and then nothing no air coming out or going in....that is when I freaked a wrote here. This is a first for me. I don't have the cash to geta heating expert in and I don't have the "-----" to handle the cold.
    Any diy suggestions?
    I never have any luck with houses and water so this is very frustrating to me....so if you can help me "wise up" i would appreciate it.
     
  2. Plumber

    Plumber New Member

    Debi, you should bleed the radiators when the sytem pump is not running or you could be sucking air in, rather than bleeding it out. The rad with the broken bleed vlave etc will need to be sorted by a heating engineer. I know it costs money but that's life
     
  3. bilco

    bilco New Member

    Hi debi
    You say you have an expansion tank in the basement...so do you repressurise it as you bleed the rads?
    Has the rad with US bleed valve got any removable plugs on it or is the bleed valve removable...if so replacing either should be possible (the plug being replaced with a bleed valve) Otherwise get a 1/4" BSP bleed valve and a 1/4" BSP Tap and corresponding sized Drill...If the rest is not obvious don't do it.
    If it's just the handle that's stripped on the inflow valve then remove the handle and use a spanner/grips on the spindle or just leave it on. When replacing bleed valve just depressurise the system as the rad is on the top floor; you will have no water to contend with.
    It would be a good idea to check for Inhibitor in the system or put some in anyway along with a couple of Fernox LSI
    Hope that helps...say if you need more
     

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