Been given a new UPVC door. It was originally made for and then fitted into a newbuild but failed building regs on disability access. So It came my way. The developer had to widen the opening and fit a wider door in there. Now, I've got a basement flat that has its own front door. I've measured up the hole and found it is 2" too small to accommodate the door without widening. It is however the correct height. The walls are brick on both sides. The current door is in Timber. The hinged side of the existing door is close to the wall of the 'porch'. The other side is virtually right against another wall. I was thinking of trying to take out an inch either side, and maybe cutting the ribs of the frame to give me 1/4 of an inch. Am I being unreasonably tight or does this make sense?
Nope, its been dones tillions of times, ive seen frames fitted with the reinforcing stripped out and the profile cut right down. - From a national company ! Good luck dont forget to superglue the lockmech to the brickwork tho lol
Good luck dont forget to superglue the lockmech to the brickwork tho lol Thanks for that reply, can you just explain the above for me, or am I being thick?
Sorry meant keep/stricker plate ( dont ask me why i put loch mech :S )! Meant in the case that if all else fails chop an inch off keep side of door ( then the screws holding the keeps on wont catch the reinforcing so superglue them to the brickwork ) All a joke hopefully you understand now through my stupid explination
Is the timber door already in plastered up to? if so your going to be sending the hinges in almost an inch further than they should be? How much is buried in the hinge side when measured?
Forgettit. It's very false economy. You will be losing more than half the strength of the frame. Mr. HandyAndy - Really
Forgettit. It's very false economy. You will be losing more than half the strength of the frame. Im only joking with what i was saying, i think crofer suggesting just taking the ribs off both sides ( which dont alter the frames strength ). However if its a normal opening plastered inside etc etc etc then it wont fit full stop, the hinges will be buried in the plasterline.
***. sell the door and put the income generated towards a product that is fit for purpose. Because you got it for nowt does not mean you should ust it
Hi CC. Are you saying that there isn't any wall either side of the existing frame that can be removed - not even a half inch? Although you can trim the PVC frame by a certain amount (have a look and you can see the bits which aren't necessary), the brickwork is ideally the parts to remove. I'm trying to fully understand the situation - just how much wall is there either side of the existing frame before you reach the adjacent walls (which I presume are at right angles to it)? If there's, say, a half inch of wall either side - so that you are still looking for another inch or so - then just cut IN to the adjacent walls either side by this amount! Use a disc cutter to cut in to the wall (in line with the outside edge of the frame) to the depth required (as long as it isn't more than an inch-ish!). Then use the cutter/SDS chisel/whatever to remove material to this depth going as far back towards the inside of the house as necessary to allow the PVC frame to be fitted from the inside. The frame - when fitted from the inside - will have around half of it's width butting - and hidden - by this cut depth, but there should still be plenty visible to allow the door to function properly. Fix in place, and make good from the inside - lots of 'one-coat' plastering, but that's easy stuff. If you look at the PVC frame, you'll be able to tell just how much can be safely trimmed off, so that the amount you need to cut in to the actual wall can be kept to a minimum - possibly only a half inch either side (easy!!). An easy way to trim PVC is to use a plane (either hand or powered)!
Take out the old door, hack all the plaster off the inside reveals, and fit the new door pushed up against the external leaf (i.e. so the frame is in the cavity) - you might even get away without adjusting/temporarily removing any internal bricks. Very tidy.
All houses don't have a cavity - derrrrr really - well I'm sure the OP is capable of working out that my suggestion isn't suitable then. You pointless **.
(i.e. so the frame is in the cavity) You can't shuffle fit a frame that 2 inches too big! if it was that easy why isnt every mismeasure just shoved in the cavity?.. an inch on a door should be remade nevermind 2, just get the thing remade.
I'm sure the OP is capable of working out that my suggestion isn't suitable I'm sure the OP is too. I just thought you had forgotten - again.
I don't know what the hell you're on about Dermouse - if you have some issue please explain? You clearly have some sort of cavity obsession - probably where your brain should be. And yes it is perfectly possible to lose an inch either side of a door frame in the cavity - in fact it often is very convenient and makes avery neat installation - the only down side is more internal making good. If it is an old house, once you remove the plaster you will normally find the internal opening is wider than the external - hey presto. So much for experts!
And yes it is perfectly possible to lose an inch either side of a door frame in the cavity - in fact it often is very convenient and makes avery neat installation - the only down side is more internal making good. If it is an old house, once you remove the plaster you will normally find the internal opening is wider than the external - hey presto LOL - Let the OP try ur way then, once he's ripped his timber door out and finds you way "doesnt work" he'll be back here seeing how fast he can get a pvc turned around. Op - Good luck doing what Grim says.
There is no way it CAN'T be made to work. Many 20/30s houses had the window/door frames installed like this from new. I'm surprised you don't realise that. It's just a case of how easy/convenient it might be in this particular case. Whatever, it's preferable to taking an angle grinder to the outer brick leaf or cutting down the upvc frame! I'm also absolutely sure the OP is a skilled individual who can start out with plan A (as I've suggested) and jump to modifying the outside leaf according to what's uncovered when the old door etc. is removed. Hardly rocket science is it! LOL LOL LOL LOL ROFL SNIGGER
Im not denying that old frames are installed as you say and i never said that was incorrect. Your suggesting that he rips both reveals off internally then supposing the cavity is.nt closed ( which we cannot confirm ). then he bolsters off any snots off. (meanwhile youve filled 5 bin bags with the cavity wall insualtion uve had to remove to give you 2 inch to slide the frame in. then he slides the frame in ( which id like to see but thats a different story ) then looking from outside youve lost an inch of profile each side (lol) then he has got to go inside skim the reveals which will need a 6mm board or bonding first ( at least ). All for 1 door which you have made sound easy "just slide it in the cavity" The customer then says thank you very much now knock 50 quid off the bill for redecorating due to old wallpaper is discontinued and the bare reveals need covering. volair youve earned a tasty 50 quid for 1 good 1/2 - 3/4 days work. And wont get any reccomends coz it looks ****. He'll be very please - just get it remade