Pffft. Darn - chust noticed that it's still dripping - seems to be coming out at the top of the cap even tho' I tightened it down fairly firmly. I wonder if there's a crack in the siphon's case, or do I need a new washer (there's a type of white foam washer in there.) Any thoughts, Mr Plum and t'others.
No point waiting for Mr Plum,he's trying to get a piano in his greenhouse.What you found is quite normal,when did you last clean it out? Should be done every yr DA so I wouldn't worry about it,but your probably more worried about the leak.I'm guessing the washer is at fault but hard to say without seeing it,but seeing your such a top lever Diyer your soon have it sorted DA.
Thanks p'boy - I do love being patronised... No, seriously - I can't get enough . It seems to be screwed up fairly firmly - tho' don't want to over-tighten it. I'll remove it tomoz and put a packer underneath it, and also give it a good smear of sili grease - good stuff. Cheers
Your welcome DA,sorry for sounding patronising,I'm just off to sit in the naughty corner for 10 minutes.
Hello, I know this is an old thread but I'm in need of some help please, from anyone. Picked your comment as it looks like you sorted out the hot water issue. I have got Glowworm 30cxi and the hot water is not coming to taps but central heating is fine. Turned off and on the boiler but no luck. I'm not a Gas or Boiler engineer so do appreciate need someone out but conscience I might end up with someone who just wants to keep changing parts to ramp up fees when this job doesn't seem to be expensive parts.
Hi Monir. A number of possible causes. It could be like mine, er, deleted member's er Satan's Counsel's problem which was a broken flow switch, or it could be a stuck diverter valve, or it could be a blocked P2P exchanger (which would usually give you some hot water before then running cold). Chances are it's the flow switch - a quick and easy swap - but you really need someone there to diagnose. This is not a hard job, and I think you can rely on a decent GasSafe to do this job systematically and accurately. Best get a local recommendation for a GasSafe - and then trust them to get on with it. (If you can ID the flow switch, you can try giving it a gentle clonk when a hot tap is running and see if that does anything. But if it's grit preventing it from spinning, then chances are it's well stuck. If you are a competent DIYer, I think it's even quite possible to clean it out if the cause is sediment, but you'd have to know what you are doing).
Hi all, just moved to a place with a Ultracom 2 30cxi and today we have no hot water. I'm glad I found this thread. Are there part numbers for the flow sensor or filter? Can you post links to the parts in the shop site if they are available? Thanks for the help so far.
Hi, have you got a part number for the filter please? I can't find it any where or is it part of a unit? Thanks, Dave W
Hi A site called free boiler manuals , would be a good start check out the gc number on your boiler Thee are different models good luck Peter
Hi folks, resurrecting an old post again. I have the same issue as initially described with the same boiler. I've opened it up and found this (see photo). I'm not a qualified plumber in any way so would appreciate some insight into the part that appears to be covered in some sort of discharge/crud and how I might go about replacing said part - or do I just need to call a boiler repair person? Thanks.
Hi, can anyone out there help. I know this is an old post but hoping someone may be able to help. I have also put this up on a new thread in the 'plumbing' section Having problems with a GlowWorm 30cxi. About a week and half ago the boiler tripped and had to be reset to get power back to it, since then, nothing but problems. When the hot tap is run it is turning the heating on with no hot water to taps. Heating coming on when asked by thermostat but not turning of when getting to temp and having to manually turn boiler of. So far Had the diverter motor changed as was rattling and worn Diverter stripped,cleaned and replaced with new repair kit as was extremly tight to move only a little bit. now moving as it should Taken the inlet water filter out and new one on order as this disintigrated. Checked the flow switch and no voltage at rest when hot water turned on geting reading of 1.73v across 2 of the 3 wires and nothing on last one. I dont think its the flow switch as when taps are turned on its heating the radiator circuit but want to verify the readings if poss as I read should be higher than the 1.73v I am thinking the fault that tripped it could of done damage to the PCB but dont want to get one just for trial & error. Can anyone help point in right direction or say if I have missed out anything.
Can anyone please offer any help or advice before ordering a new PCB. It has had diverter striped cleaned and new valve put in, new diverter motor, new hot water thermister (due to I think it was F7 fault), new flow switch new filling loop and a new filter. The heating is still coming on when hot water tap is run even though the thermostat is turned all way down and heating switch is set to 0 on boiler controlls It is becoming a never ending nightmare
It was doing the same thing with the old diverter parts & motor, replacing all the new bits hasnt sorted it but they were in a bad way. The motor seems to be located correctly all the way in and secured by the clip with 'YES' showing as I read somewhere you can fit them in wrong position but the clip then wont fit with the 'YES' showing.
Changed the PCB and now all is working as it should........ YAYYYYYYY For anyone suffering similar problems, what I suspect is that the filter broke up causing the problems with diverter valve sticking wich in turn took out the actuator motor also damaging the PCB. All good now and after a good flush out followed by some inhibitor it will live on for years to come.