Hi all I am after some advice. I have a ring main in the kitchen. And have a socket above tower for fridge. Am I able to plug an oven in there? Also do I need any protective sheeting for cabinet etc
Oven is a 2.4kw. I have a separate 6mm for the hob. the cooker has come with plug top. Any information would me much appreciated
The 2.4kW oven has a plug. Plug it in to the socket. job done. However, there is guidance in the regs that advises on how to reduce a single high current load on a ring final. One of they ways is for a load of more than 2kW to be on its own dedicated circuit. But the rest of us live in the real World. You should look at what other loads are on the ring final and judge if the ring might be overloaded, but generally it should be OK.
2.4 KW is the maximum load, it will not draw that much power for long before the thermostat cuts off the heater and unloads the ring circuit. Personally I would not plug it in, but that's just me. You will be OK to plug it in, as Bazza has suggested, check the loading on the rest of the ring. I was going to suggest the use of cooker diversity, but that's only for dedicated cooker final circuits.
thanyou Bazza I have a washing machine, dishwasher and that’s it but they shouldn’t all be on the same time but is there a way for learning purposes I have a 6mm cable also behind the unit a feed then going off to the hob which is eventually going to be in an island. so would it be possible to have a socket with an isolated feed for the hob then it’s on the dedicated 6mm
That’s a bit like the “bang test”, you’ll only know if the load is too big when the MCB trips on Christmas morning. Yes! A much better plan.
S so by using one of these would I have the feed in to the isolator then feed out to the hob(supply) When you switch the isolator does it turn off the socket too. Will I be able to supply the oven and the hob with this. Technically need to Outs how would this work Thankyou for replies
So would I need a double pole cooker switch? I need to supply a hob and plug in integrated oven. trying to explain clearer. I get the supply cable from the consumer unit will go in Supply and then my hob cable will go into load . Where is the cable for the socket part to energise the socket. If that makes sense
There is no regulation to say that you must have a cooker switch. As you are feeding (under the floor?) to an island unit then I would fit one. From the load side of the switch (above the worktop?) run a length of 6mm cable to a DUAL APPLIANCE CONNECTOR PLATE. To this connect the 6mm that will go to the hob on the island. Also connect a length of 2.5mm cable to the socket for the oven.
No!!!! Read what I posted To clarify: Connect one end of the 2.5mm cable to dual appliance connector, the other end to the socket. Then plug the oven in. Also connected to the dual appliance plate will be 6mm cable to power your hob.
Great so I should 3 cables in dual plate. X2 -6mm (1from isolator) and (1 to hob) 2.5 which I have to socket. Thankyou much appreciated
Would I leave the dual plate behind the oven? Ease of termination. oven is going on a tall unit if you get me. Unless I terminate then drop behind.
Normally the oven unit will not have a back. The connection plate sits on a single gang box recessed into the wall behind the oven. You don’t need to access it afterwards.
Cable is loose and not chased out atm, but I can chase out. Would it be ok to surface mount, the oven has a recess in the top so I will probably have room at the top My feed is coming down the wall behind unit, hob is coming up the wall and socket will need to go back up. Are the dual outlets able to go inline, or would it be ok to loop back as all behind a unit